'88 E30
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What material bushings are you going with?
Any plans for CAB's? -
Poly (95a) for subframe
Poly (95a) for diff
Solid Delrin RTABs
Solid offset Delrin FCABs
Engine & trans are already solid Delrin
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That garage looks great!! Times like these are great in the build world. Excited for you!
FYI, I might be selling my turbo manifold, turbo, and full 3in stainless exhaust next winter...
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@DrLeadFoot
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That garage looks great!! Times like these are great in the build world. Excited for you!
FYI, I might be selling my turbo manifold, turbo, and full 3in stainless exhaust next winter...
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Hover car
Every last bolt I need to remove I've soaked in PB blaster
Tires are under it in case harbor freight decides to let me down big time
Tools of the hopeless
Plan is to drop both front and rear subframes with as much crap intact as possible.
I snuck a peek at the RTABs and holy shit. They needed to be replaced about 4 lifetimes ago
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Everything in the front is out
Parts are all in desperate need of being recycled. I will be cleaning up the rack, getting new tie rods, new boots, etc.
Everything came out super easily. Steering rack linkage was the biggest PITA, but came out okay once the subframe was out
Parts came in today too!
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Nice work man!! Are those reinforcement plates and such you got?
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don't screw up like I did:
Make sure you know which end of the steering joint has fine splines and which has coarse splines aka which end fits on the rack. They are aluminum, the splines are easily wrecked, even if you have the correct ends going together and just dont have them lined up properly before applying some persuasion. They aren't very easy to find on the used market and when you do, you are usually dealing with dumbasses that want to charge 90% of the price for a new one.
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Nice work man!! Are those reinforcement plates and such you got?
Yep!
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don't screw up like I did:
Make sure you know which end of the steering joint has fine splines and which has coarse splines aka which end fits on the rack. They are aluminum, the splines are easily wrecked, even if you have the correct ends going together and just dont have them lined up properly before applying some persuasion. They aren't very easy to find on the used market and when you do, you are usually dealing with dumbasses that want to charge 90% of the price for a new one.
Good to know. I ended up splitting the linkage in half. Neither end wanted to slide off the splines so I said screw it and took it apart in the center.
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So found out someone replaced the subframe bushings with power flex??? They are soft enough to sink a nail into a bit. But the RTABs are another story....
And there's your problem
Good news is the subframe is freely moving with the nuts loosened. So it should come out easy. Just need to disconnect rear lines, drop the exhaust and disconnect the drive shaft and the subframe should fall out. And then get promptly trashed
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Reinstalled temporarily so the subframe wouldn't fall on my face. Plates were removed before hand. They had some BS menards hardware that I had to snap out.
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You are about to find out that even with all subframe hardware removed the dang thing is stuck to the car by means of black magic.
Having it fall out and hit you in the face would be preferable to some of the profanities you are about to invent while attempting to remove it
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You are about to find out that even with all subframe hardware removed the dang thing is stuck to the car by means of black magic.Having it fall out and hit you in the face would be preferable to some of the profanities you are about to invent while attempting to remove it
Mine almost fell out on me - didn't take hardly any effort to remove.
Helped Josh drop his though and it didn't wanna come out. He ended up leaving stands just barely under it and letting the weight hang overnight, then used some force to remove.
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Mine fell out and crushed my fucking knuckles into my floor Jack lol
Now gonna remove rear sway and get everything cleaned up underneath the car and put some undercoating on the whole bottom. Will most likely por-15 the subframes & trailing arms.
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Getting it done! Nice work so far
You shouldnt listen to Brian, KBS rustseal is the way to go over por15
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