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  4. '88 E30

'88 E30

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • KaiserRollsK
    KaiserRollsK
    KaiserRolls
    wrote on last edited by
    #355

    Poly (95a) for subframe

    Poly (95a) for diff

    Solid Delrin RTABs

    Solid offset Delrin FCABs

    Engine & trans are already solid Delrin

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • DrLeadFootD
      DrLeadFootD
      DrLeadFoot
      wrote on last edited by
      #356

      That garage looks great!! Times like these are great in the build world. Excited for you!

      FYI, I might be selling my turbo manifold, turbo, and full 3in stainless exhaust next winter...

      Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

      15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

           @DrLeadFoot

      1 Reply Last reply
      1
      • KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRolls
        wrote on last edited by
        #357

        DrLeadFoot said:

        That garage looks great!! Times like these are great in the build world. Excited for you!

        FYI, I might be selling my turbo manifold, turbo, and full 3in stainless exhaust next winter...

        Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

        3a99a79b46cc54504a4f2f0069a04091.jpg

        1 Reply Last reply
        2
        • B
          B
          B C
          wrote on last edited by
          #358

          I got u bro

          post-2598-145014274346thumb.jpg

          1 Reply Last reply
          1
          • KaiserRollsK
            KaiserRollsK
            KaiserRolls
            wrote on last edited by
            #359

            Hover car

            18df6b06bbd35b7396006cb06c551be6.jpg

            Every last bolt I need to remove I've soaked in PB blaster

            36391bf4e35e9cae7668c70066b380e0.jpg

            Tires are under it in case harbor freight decides to let me down big time

            Tools of the hopeless

            baad019c38e8c62a453d1ba4fe257b7d.jpg

            Plan is to drop both front and rear subframes with as much crap intact as possible.

            I snuck a peek at the RTABs and holy shit. They needed to be replaced about 4 lifetimes ago

            1 Reply Last reply
            1
            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #360

              But babes dont have time for bushings

              Nice job keeping the garage tidy so far.

              1 Reply Last reply
              2
              • KaiserRollsK
                KaiserRollsK
                KaiserRolls
                wrote on last edited by
                #361

                Everything in the front is out bc4f3f510b81d26995ad380b6a8c52f6.jpg

                Parts are all in desperate need of being recycled. I will be cleaning up the rack, getting new tie rods, new boots, etc.

                c0a012785ba0f832e5abb2764c3911e9.jpg

                Everything came out super easily. Steering rack linkage was the biggest PITA, but came out okay once the subframe was out

                e7786465e2a31abc2d6be88051da9a22.jpg

                Parts came in today too!

                647cc92b8301592ad1ec112230d25163.jpg

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                • Bassboy3313B
                  Bassboy3313B
                  Bassboy3313
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #362

                  Nice work man!! Are those reinforcement plates and such you got?

                  CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  1
                  • B
                    B
                    B C
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #363

                    don't screw up like I did:

                    Make sure you know which end of the steering joint has fine splines and which has coarse splines  aka which end fits on the rack. They are aluminum, the splines are easily wrecked, even if you have the correct ends going together and just dont have them lined up properly before applying some persuasion.  They aren't very easy to find on the used market and when you do, you are usually dealing with dumbasses that want to charge 90% of the price for a new one.

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • KaiserRollsK
                      KaiserRollsK
                      KaiserRolls
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #364

                      Bassboy3313 said:

                      Nice work man!! Are those reinforcement plates and such you got?

                      Yep!

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRolls
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #365

                        Snap said:

                        don't screw up like I did:

                        Make sure you know which end of the steering joint has fine splines and which has coarse splines  aka which end fits on the rack. They are aluminum, the splines are easily wrecked, even if you have the correct ends going together and just dont have them lined up properly before applying some persuasion.  They aren't very easy to find on the used market and when you do, you are usually dealing with dumbasses that want to charge 90% of the price for a new one. 

                        Good to know. I ended up splitting the linkage in half. Neither end wanted to slide off the splines so I said screw it and took it apart in the center.

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • KaiserRollsK
                          KaiserRollsK
                          KaiserRolls
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #366

                          So found out someone replaced the subframe bushings with power flex??? They are soft enough to sink a nail into a bit. But the RTABs are another story.... 60be435c8c79872a49544accea562b97.jpg

                          And there's your problem

                          07696275f9451950499eec6f47b067e9.jpg

                          Good news is the subframe is freely moving with the nuts loosened. So it should come out easy. Just need to disconnect rear lines, drop the exhaust and disconnect the drive shaft and the subframe should fall out. And then get promptly trashed

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • B
                            B
                            B C
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #367

                            Did you just re-install the nut on the subframe bolt temporarily or is it actually missing the plate that bolts to the pinch weld?

                            1 Reply Last reply
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                            • KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRolls
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #368

                              Reinstalled temporarily so the subframe wouldn't fall on my face. Plates were removed before hand. They had some BS menards hardware that I had to snap out.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • B
                                B
                                B C
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #369

                                You are about to find out that even with all subframe hardware removed the dang thing is stuck to the car by means of black magic.

                                Having it fall out and hit you in the face would be preferable to some of the profanities you are about to invent while attempting to remove it

                                1 Reply Last reply
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                                • EarlE
                                  EarlE
                                  Earl
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #370

                                  ^Johns came out with minimal struggle from what I recall. The one on the compact was cake too=P Just get a large 2x4 and put it between the car and subframe

                                  Then step on it to slowly work it off

                                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                  1 Reply Last reply
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                                  • ClassEC
                                    ClassEC
                                    ClassE
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #371

                                    Snap said:

                                    You are about to find out that even with all subframe hardware removed the dang thing is stuck to the car by means of black magic.Having it fall out and hit you in the face would be preferable to some of the profanities you are about to invent while attempting to remove it

                                    Mine almost fell out on me - didn't take hardly any effort to remove.

                                    Helped Josh drop his though and it didn't wanna come out. He ended up leaving stands just barely under it and letting the weight hang overnight, then used some force to remove.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
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                                    • KaiserRollsK
                                      KaiserRollsK
                                      KaiserRolls
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #372

                                      Mine fell out and crushed my fucking knuckles into my floor Jack lol

                                      bdeb0851753db94a1913cc1a3e63c0ef.jpg6639b558b94e07650a02f427f461873a.jpg

                                      Now gonna remove rear sway and get everything cleaned up underneath the car and put some undercoating on the whole bottom. Will most likely por-15 the subframes & trailing arms.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      1
                                      • Bassboy3313B
                                        Bassboy3313B
                                        Bassboy3313
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #373

                                        Getting it done! Nice work so far

                                        You shouldnt listen to Brian, KBS rustseal is the way to go over por15 :P

                                        CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        1
                                        • KaiserRollsK
                                          KaiserRollsK
                                          KaiserRolls
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #374

                                          Bassboy3313 said:

                                          Getting it done! Nice work so far

                                          You shouldnt listen to Brian, KBS rustseal is the way to go over por15 :P

                                          Is KBS cheaper or something?

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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