Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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Glad you got the pan off. The chain driving the oil pump is a different one from the cams, right? Any oil analysis results yet
There are two different chains. One guy on R3V said that the tensioner would have been affected but the tensioner only touches the timing chain not the oil pump chain. I'm confused about that.
No results yet since I haven't mailed it. The sample I took won't be 100% accurate because, as you know, you need to heat up the oil and mix it up. I took the sample when the oil was about half way done draining. I will be monitoring the oil closely from here on out just so I know when to replace my bearings.
@DrLeadFoot
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Are you anticipating a rebuild/new bearings kind of no-matter what? Or making a decision based on the results?
Based on results. The oil was newer and I caught it pretty quick I think. If it is okay I will shout the praises of Royal Purple from the mountains. A little worried about my turbo shaft play doe.
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@DrLeadFoot
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note to self....
never turbo anything, ever
drive camrys till the day i die
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Why wasn't this nut welded when it was put together at the very minimum? Knowing that these are known issues its something that shouldnt of happened in the first place. Also many many people go with the vac motorport oil pump upgrade which includes a hardend oil pump shaft. I don;'t know about the one you posted but that is an option as well. But do as you please. Also some of the older m50's have chain tensioners on the oil pump chain. Yours does not. Again some opt and add a Euro oil pump chain guide/tensioner or a s54 chain tensioner for the oil pump. Not 100% needed but something id consider if you are reving it high often.
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Why wasn't this nut welded when it was put together at the very minimum? Knowing that these are known issues its something that shouldnt of happened in the first place. Also many many people go with the vac motorport oil pump upgrade which includes a hardend oil pump shaft. I don;'t know about the one you posted but that is an option as well. But do as you please. Also some of the older m50's have chain tensioners on the oil pump chain. Yours does not. Again some opt and add a Euro oil pump chain guide/tensioner or a s54 chain tensioner for the oil pump. Not 100% needed but something id consider if you are reving it high often.
This, yours was safety wired?
I welded mine when I built my m50, it has survived 45k of bouncing off of the rev limiter. I am NA though, but that wouldn't really affect the oil pump.
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Why wasn't this nut welded when it was put together at the very minimum? Knowing that these are known issues its something that shouldnt of happened in the first place. Also many many people go with the vac motorport oil pump upgrade which includes a hardend oil pump shaft. I don;'t know about the one you posted but that is an option as well. But do as you please. Also some of the older m50's have chain tensioners on the oil pump chain. Yours does not. Again some opt and add a Euro oil pump chain guide/tensioner or a s54 chain tensioner for the oil pump. Not 100% needed but something id consider if you are reving it high often.
This, yours was safety wired?
I welded mine when I built my m50, it has survived 45k of bouncing off of the rev limiter. I am NA though, but that wouldn't really affect the oil pump.
It was not welded or safety wired. I didn't know about this and that is why I brought it to a shop... There was a lock washer installed but I don't think that was in the Bentley manual.
I'm going to do some more research to see if I can get the GSR pump to work with my current pump otherwise I will try to retrofit a m54 or m52 5 bolt pump in there. (I think this is right). If I need to weld a shorter pickup on one so be it.
I am worried about breaking the shaft aswell as the nut coming loose. This motor revs so fast!
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@DrLeadFoot
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This might be in my future.
http://store.vacmotorsports.com/harmonic-damper-bmw-m50-m52-m54--s50-us-s52-us-p756.aspx#
@DrLeadFoot
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There should be no lock washer between the nut and the gear, and your pump nut has most certainly been drilled.
Did you build this part of the engine or did the shop?
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I mentioned the safety wire because the nut looks like a drilled one.
The base of the thread looks knurled too. That lock washer looks out of place.
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This might be in my future.
http://store.vacmotorsports.com/harmonic-damper-bmw-m50-m52-m54--s50-us-s52-us-p756.aspx#
Not something really needed with your set up but again once you are ready let me know. As usual I get these cheaper then VAC (aka vac overcharges on a lot of things)
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@DrLeadFoot
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There should be no lock washer between the nut and the gear, and your pump nut has most certainly been drilled.
Did you build this part of the engine or did the shop?
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I didn't build it and the shop "doesn't recall" what they did with the nut.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Something is out of place with how that was done. Breaking shafts is no good no matter how you slice it!
Pun intended
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Some more carnage pics. The hole on the nut doesn't go all the way through.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I am no expert,
but, my theory is the nut backed off due to heat reducing the effectiveness of the spring washer, as well as the other factors inherent to the oil pump design that cause the nut to back off. From the dark spot with some faint chevron marks, I would believe it to be a bending fatigue failure and due to the ratchet marks around the outer diameter, it looks like the nut gradually lost tension (because of the spring washer getting weaker etc) and the shaft failed over time, could have been weeks, could have been hours, but the cause of the shaft failing wasnt sudden and catastrophic as if it was too brittle or hit with too much torque.
My point being that I personally would not hesitate to replace it with a regular OE oil pump+shaft as long as something is done to prevent the nut from backing off.
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I am no expert,
but, my theory is the nut backed off due to heat reducing the effectiveness of the spring washer, as well as the other factors inherent to the oil pump design that cause the nut to back off. From the dark spot with some faint chevron marks, I would believe it to be a bending fatigue failure and due to the ratchet marks around the outer diameter, it looks like the nut gradually lost tension (because of the spring washer getting weaker etc) and the shaft failed over time, could have been weeks, could have been hours, but the cause of the shaft failing wasnt sudden and catastrophic as if it was too brittle or hit with too much torque.
My point being that I personally would not hesitate to replace it with a regular OE oil pump+shaft as long as something is done to prevent the nut from backing off.
Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night?
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Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night?
no, but im sure my bed is just as uncomfortable.
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