Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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http://www.cesmotorsport.com/documents/94.html
They have an 87mm cut ring gasket for ya! Everyone is raving about them on BF.C
But yes, you can O ring it still, but that would take a trip to the machine shop. Cut ring is faster/easier.
I have a call into them. Going to ask if they have different thicknesses IF I have to resurface the head.
@DrLeadFoot
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Do you also have to take your turbo off to get your valve cover off?
I suppose if you are taking your head off it is coming off anyway. -
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Don'tbreakdontbreakdonrbreakdontbreak
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None broken. No tools used except for an 11mm and a Cresent Wrench.
@DrLeadFoot
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God damn that harbor freight life is everywhere!
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The head gasket replacement journey.
Keeping organized.
Too much wear?
I can feel this one with my fingernail.
Now I just need to disconnect my downpipe and remove the ARP head bolts and see the carnage.
@DrLeadFoot
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Question. If some show some wear do I need new caps, carrier and cam? I feel one journal with my fingernail...
@DrLeadFoot
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It is doubtful that you would have much success with other bearing caps since they are machined as a unit with the head and even running the caps that are mounted in the wrong location (originally machined for exhaust cam bearing #3 but using it on intake cam bearing #3) can be problematic
When I was 17 I found this out the hard way when using a bearing cap from another engine and not being able to turn the engine over even with the bearing cap well under-torqued at 15ft-lb.
I would scotch brite the scuff lightly to help knock down the edge a little and just not worry about it remembering that even at 7000 rpm your cams are only turning 3500 and arent under nearly the same load as the bearings on the crank.
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Man that is nasty! Looks like a milkshake that I would not be interested in drinking!
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It wasn't all that bad from other pictures I've seen.
I talked to John and ECS and he said he has sold hundreds of these head gaskets and hasn't had one customer come back with a complaint.
Link to head gasket info: http://www.cesmotorsport.com/documents/94.html
Oil cooler ideas w/ links.
Oil cooler cap: http://www.rallyroad.net/content/oil-cooler-cap
Thermostat: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-22-480/overview/
Cooler(s): https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2350
- Not sure of what to do with the cooler size. I haven't measured anything yet but thinking I could run two of the smaller Canton coolers in tandem behind and to the left and right of the kidney.
Or do I just go S54 oil cooler and call it a day?
@DrLeadFoot
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Ideas of where to mount another gauge? Don't want to do the A-pillar.
@DrLeadFoot
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I don't know if it would work but the upper center vent would be a prime spot in an e30. I've also heard great things about the CES cutring gaskets.
I'm probably going to go with a single gauge in the left center vent.
@DrLeadFoot
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I run 3 gauges in my center vent, fits perfectly and has a nice clean look, not sure what you have there.
Get an s54 oil filter housing, way cheaper. You can get them new for like $370 if you really wanted something new.
All you have to do it is drill out the ports a smidge, run a 3/8NPT tap into them and put a 3/8NPT - 10AN adapter in. Run the lines to the cooler of your choice.
The S54 housing has a built in thermostat so you do not have to worry about adding one externally. Mine solved my 250+ degree oil issues!
Do you have oil temp issues right now? Two coolers may be overkill, I have a pretty small one and it works just fine!
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