Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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I gotta wonder why you wouldn't go with a cut ring gasket or o rings? And do you have any logs? Did you ever get rid of that richness?
I would definitely borrow a nice caliper and measure if those bad boys stretched. I'm kind of excited to see what the pistons look like.
sk8 or die
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From what I can see there is no need to re-tighten the head bolts on the engine. Not according to the replacement and torque procedure at least.
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There is hardly any room between the 87mm cylinders. Not sure if I can o-ring it
@DrLeadFoot
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I'm still running rich. It drops into the 10s at 4-6k
@DrLeadFoot
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I checked my ARP torque after ~20 heat cycles and they had lost a little torque. There is a lot at play when you have that many items stacking up when cold, then subjecting them to multiple heat cycles. I suspect some internal stresses exist when you first mount the cylinder head due to very small misalignments and fasteners causing preloads in different items. After some heat cycling these internal stresses relocate or cause the component to relax and causes a slight torque loss. Just a hypothesis.
They dont need to be babysat, but checking them after some heat cycles is a requirement for me.
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http://www.cesmotorsport.com/documents/94.html
They have an 87mm cut ring gasket for ya! Everyone is raving about them on BF.C
But yes, you can O ring it still, but that would take a trip to the machine shop. Cut ring is faster/easier.
I have a call into them. Going to ask if they have different thicknesses IF I have to resurface the head.
@DrLeadFoot
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Do you also have to take your turbo off to get your valve cover off?
I suppose if you are taking your head off it is coming off anyway. -
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Don'tbreakdontbreakdonrbreakdontbreak
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None broken. No tools used except for an 11mm and a Cresent Wrench.
@DrLeadFoot
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God damn that harbor freight life is everywhere!
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The head gasket replacement journey.
Keeping organized.
Too much wear?
I can feel this one with my fingernail.
Now I just need to disconnect my downpipe and remove the ARP head bolts and see the carnage.
@DrLeadFoot
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Question. If some show some wear do I need new caps, carrier and cam? I feel one journal with my fingernail...
@DrLeadFoot
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It is doubtful that you would have much success with other bearing caps since they are machined as a unit with the head and even running the caps that are mounted in the wrong location (originally machined for exhaust cam bearing #3 but using it on intake cam bearing #3) can be problematic
When I was 17 I found this out the hard way when using a bearing cap from another engine and not being able to turn the engine over even with the bearing cap well under-torqued at 15ft-lb.
I would scotch brite the scuff lightly to help knock down the edge a little and just not worry about it remembering that even at 7000 rpm your cams are only turning 3500 and arent under nearly the same load as the bearings on the crank.
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