E21 project thread
-
Wish my rotors looked like that
i like old crappy rotors, adds character
-
^hhaha
hopefully by repeatedly bumping this thread with random nonsense bassboy will post pics!
-
You guys are killing me! Haha! Will grab some pics now.
-
Here you go guys! Subframe is in!
-
awhhh yeah!
-
I got the parking brakes installed, cables/hoses/lines all put on and the calipers/rotors on the rear this weekend. All-in-all a pretty productive weekend considering I spent my Saturday taking an 8 hour fundamentals of engineering (FE) exam.
Started working on the rear coilover setup. I have brand new bilstein sports that I installed the coilover sleeves on.
From the looks of things, I am going to need either longer springs or helper springs to make this work. I am still new to the whole diy coilover stuff, so it will definitely be a learning experience.
-
Lets get this thing on the road soon! All these parts that are going on are going to feel amazing!
+ a bunch
-
Started working on the rear coilover setup. I have brand new bilstein sports that I installed the coilover sleeves on.
From the looks of things, I am going to need either longer springs or helper springs to make this work. I am still new to the whole diy coilover stuff, so it will definitely be a learning experience.
Do you plan to reinforce the shock mounts when converting to the coilover setup?
-
I was not planning on reinforcing anything since I didnt think it was neccesary. Unless you think otherwise ...
-
The E36 and E46 chassis seem to suffer the most from sheetmetal fatigue in suspension mounting points and they make force distribution plates like these:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3440-e36-e46-rear-shock-tower-mount-reinforcement-kit.aspx
If you make/buy a rear brace with a circular mounting flange then you should be in good shape.
-
Well it looks like the car wont be on the road as soon as I wanted it to. I decided to go all out and pretty much do everything on the list NOW. Saturday I was working on getting the tapped s14 oil filter housing installed since the sandwich plate I was using before was preventing the alternator from swinging far enough to get the new belt on. Plus it’s a lot cleaner without the sandwich plate. Turned out I need to remove the AFM and fuel dizzy (FD) in order to get the top bolt off the oil filter housing. I removed the charge piping and noticed water and some oil coming out. Right then and there I decided to just go ahead and put the rebuilt head on since I had shit apart this far already.
AFM, FD and oil filter housing out
Intake manifold out
After draing oil and coolant, disconnecting wires and hoses and the exhaust manifold, the cylinder head was finally out
Now its time to do some clean up and prep work for the new head, arp studs and mls gasket to go on as well as clean and paint the parts removed that are going back on. As mentioned before, I jump around from project to project. I wanted to make a rear strut brace since it is a simple design and will help wonders with the new rear end and soon to come coilovers, so I started that. A member over on BF sent me a CAD file of the strut plates that he made awhile back. I ordered up some plate steel and steel tubing from Speedy Metals and went at it. Printed out the strut plate templates and transferred them to the plate steel. My brother ended up working Sunday morning (works at a machine shop), so he cut the templates out for me which took WAY less time than it would of if I cut them out myself.
All that’s left on that is to do some finish grinding and test fitments and see how long the cross bar needs to be. Cut the tubing to length, flatten the ends and weld them to the plates. A little black paint to finish them off and that will be that. I also figured more out on my rear coilover setup.
I will be grabbing some helper springs from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies this week and then my brother is going to lathe some spring dividers for me. Once those are machined and installed that will complete the rear coilover setup and onto the fronts I go. That will be a different update tho.
-
You got it Earl! The material is thicker in the area that is normally drilled and tapped for the oil feed line for the turbo. The standard m10 is prone to breaking when trying to drill it for the fitting.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login