E21 project thread
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You guys are killing me! Haha! Will grab some pics now.
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Here you go guys! Subframe is in!
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awhhh yeah!
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I got the parking brakes installed, cables/hoses/lines all put on and the calipers/rotors on the rear this weekend. All-in-all a pretty productive weekend considering I spent my Saturday taking an 8 hour fundamentals of engineering (FE) exam.
Started working on the rear coilover setup. I have brand new bilstein sports that I installed the coilover sleeves on.
From the looks of things, I am going to need either longer springs or helper springs to make this work. I am still new to the whole diy coilover stuff, so it will definitely be a learning experience.
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Lets get this thing on the road soon! All these parts that are going on are going to feel amazing!
+ a bunch
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Started working on the rear coilover setup. I have brand new bilstein sports that I installed the coilover sleeves on.
From the looks of things, I am going to need either longer springs or helper springs to make this work. I am still new to the whole diy coilover stuff, so it will definitely be a learning experience.
Do you plan to reinforce the shock mounts when converting to the coilover setup?
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I was not planning on reinforcing anything since I didnt think it was neccesary. Unless you think otherwise ...
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The E36 and E46 chassis seem to suffer the most from sheetmetal fatigue in suspension mounting points and they make force distribution plates like these:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3440-e36-e46-rear-shock-tower-mount-reinforcement-kit.aspx
If you make/buy a rear brace with a circular mounting flange then you should be in good shape.
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Well it looks like the car wont be on the road as soon as I wanted it to. I decided to go all out and pretty much do everything on the list NOW. Saturday I was working on getting the tapped s14 oil filter housing installed since the sandwich plate I was using before was preventing the alternator from swinging far enough to get the new belt on. Plus it’s a lot cleaner without the sandwich plate. Turned out I need to remove the AFM and fuel dizzy (FD) in order to get the top bolt off the oil filter housing. I removed the charge piping and noticed water and some oil coming out. Right then and there I decided to just go ahead and put the rebuilt head on since I had shit apart this far already.
AFM, FD and oil filter housing out
Intake manifold out
After draing oil and coolant, disconnecting wires and hoses and the exhaust manifold, the cylinder head was finally out
Now its time to do some clean up and prep work for the new head, arp studs and mls gasket to go on as well as clean and paint the parts removed that are going back on. As mentioned before, I jump around from project to project. I wanted to make a rear strut brace since it is a simple design and will help wonders with the new rear end and soon to come coilovers, so I started that. A member over on BF sent me a CAD file of the strut plates that he made awhile back. I ordered up some plate steel and steel tubing from Speedy Metals and went at it. Printed out the strut plate templates and transferred them to the plate steel. My brother ended up working Sunday morning (works at a machine shop), so he cut the templates out for me which took WAY less time than it would of if I cut them out myself.
All that’s left on that is to do some finish grinding and test fitments and see how long the cross bar needs to be. Cut the tubing to length, flatten the ends and weld them to the plates. A little black paint to finish them off and that will be that. I also figured more out on my rear coilover setup.
I will be grabbing some helper springs from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies this week and then my brother is going to lathe some spring dividers for me. Once those are machined and installed that will complete the rear coilover setup and onto the fronts I go. That will be a different update tho.
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You got it Earl! The material is thicker in the area that is normally drilled and tapped for the oil feed line for the turbo. The standard m10 is prone to breaking when trying to drill it for the fitting.
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It has definitely been busy as hell at work and my weekends have been preoccupied with others things, but I can finally post an update. To answer 02intherockies questions, the rear brake hose issue was solved by using e30 rear brake hoses screwed directly into the caliper. It’s a tiny bit of a stretch, but it works. I finally got the crank pulley to come off thanks to the help of a gigantic gear puller from Advance Auto. The smaller one I got from O'reilly just didn’t cut it apparently. I am in the process of replacing the seal in the timing cover right now. Once that is done, I will mount the new machined down crank pulley and mock up how to trigger wheel will sit in relation to the vr sensor. Going along with my copper rear end, I said screw it and used up some more paint on the pulleys. Most of you probably won’t agree, but to each their own, right?
Water pump pulley and vr sensor mount
My brother and my dad both work at a machining/metal spinning company, so I utilized their expertise and machines at their work. I picked up a big chunk of solid aluminum 3-1/4” rod from Speedy Metals for $20 and had my brother throw it on the lathe to make some spring dividers. I just drew it up in CAD and away it went. As you know, when using helper springs you need a divider between it and the main spring. A couple days later and we had this.
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Which gets installed like this.
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From that point, the rear coilover setup was complete to the point of install. I will have to wait and see the ride height once I can put the car on the ground, so tweaking most likely will be needed.
C
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Along with that stuff I mocked up the front euro bumper using bmacs adapters that I powdercoated earlier in the build. My front valance is dented in from someone backing into the car, so that made it a big rough to mount it. All-in-all I think it looks better than what I had.
F
That is all for now. Stay tuned!
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