Lifted E30 V2
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Same thing happened here.
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Not sure what happened but now all the videos are gone. Flickr is great for photos, I've never relied on them for video. Try YouTube.
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Tore the stock turbo apart last night and replaced the bearings, as the old ones were absolutely terrible.
The compressor wheel did indeed rub the housing a bit, but for now it's whatever. I grabbed a generic T3 rebuild kit from ebay for $30 and it worked perfectly.
I didn't take a ton of pictures
After I got the CHRA all stripped down
The edge of this guy was a bit concerning, as the compressor housing had similar markings, but we shall see if it was detrimental!
I wish someone else was around to see it, but as you can see by the mangled snap ring I got a bit annoyed with it and ended up using a screwdriver to push the edge in until it shot out of the housing. It flew up and hit the wall probably 10 feet up, and then I heard it land in the plastic tray with all of the new parts. I quick glanced for it and didn't see it. When I went to grab a new snap ring I saw the bent and oily one sitting in with all of the others. It flew right into its proper spot in the tray!
New bearings in, with new snap rings.
All together!
I pumped some oil into it to see how it felt, and it has no perceivable shaft play, and spun fairly well. I'm sure once it gets spun by the exhaust for awhile it will wear in a touch and free up a little bit, but even if it doesn't change it is a large improvement over what it had been.
Next step, time the motor and fuel pump!
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The new bearings slid in quite nicely.
I started doing that with the HX35, and planned on doing the same for this one, yes. -
Make sure you get that thing properly balanced especially after the wheel has been rubbing on the housing. I'm rebuilding a turbo for my saabaru at the moment and forgot to mark te CHRA in relation to the wheels. I sent it in to get balanced and they said it was good I did since it was way out of balance. Just some food for thought.
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Make sure you get that thing properly balanced especially after the wheel has been rubbing on the housing. I'm rebuilding a turbo for my saabaru at the moment and forgot to mark te CHRA in relation to the wheels. I sent it in to get balanced and they said it was good I did since it was way out of balance. Just some food for thought.
I marked out the wheel to the shaft and the nut. It's all lined back up.
Do I think it's perfect? No
Am I going to spend the money getting a turbo that rubbed balanced? Not thinking soThere is a couple of turbo's for the motor on ebay so if I need one down the road I can grab one, or go with something slightly larger.
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Some throwback pics as I browse through Flickr
Pictures make me miss the 325, reality makes me not miss it.
This concludes photo dumps, with Ben
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And to top it off, it appears (from my research) that I actually have a Euro M21, as it does not have any electronics other than a fuel solenoid that need to be connected to run it. Guess that was a euro only thing?
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Got some stoof done this weekend!
Converted the fuel system from feeding fuel to feeding diesel.
I took the foam out of the bottom of the fuel cell, time will tell if that was a good move or not.
There was a surprising amount of crap in the bottom of the cell, including some sort of mfg. leftovers!
I enjoy the color of diesel
Took out the fuel pump and such from the trunk, and it leaves me with a comically small amount of stuff.
The weird part to me at this point is that there is no fuel pressure in any of the chassis lines anymore, only in the injector hard lines. It makes my life easier for sure!
I re-timed the motor and fuel pump as I noticed when switching the timing belt that the crank was not at tdc when everything else was. Brett suggested leaving it that way for the first startup due to potential pump timing issues, and I cleaned up all timing elements.
This is how you read the engine timing.
It threads into the back of the pump, and you rotate the motor until you get the highest reading, zero the dial indicator, rotate to tdc again and measure the offset. The timing was a touch too aggressive so I brought it down a little bit, to what most people use as performance timing for the motor.
Sadly the cam isn't in great shape, quite scored where it rides.
I find the vacuum pump kind of cool, as it bolts up to the cam and rides on an extra lobe.
A overall shot for you m20 guys.
Also found that the starter and flywheel were not playing nice together!
There was a lot of metal shavings on the bottom of the bell housing, but it looks like the problem resolved itself so I may just go with it.
Starter doesn't show signs of wear.
I guess I didn't take a picture, but I got the motor back in the car and have it all bolted up.
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Its so simple and mechanical. It seems to like its so easy to work on.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
It is pretty simple which is nice, but the whole thing wont work if there is air in the fuel system.
It's been a messy process trying to get air out of everything, and I'm pretty sure I am not done working at that.
I'm pretty sure I get to re-bleed the injector lines again, when I opened the back of the pump fuel came out and I doubt I cleared all the bubbles when I filled it.
I hope to have it running in the car before the weekend!
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It is pretty simple which is nice, but the whole thing wont work if there is air in the fuel system.
It's been a messy process trying to get air out of everything, and I'm pretty sure I am not done working at that.
I'm pretty sure I get to re-bleed the injector lines again, when I opened the back of the pump fuel came out and I doubt I cleared all the bubbles when I filled it.
I hope to have it running in the car before the weekend!
Thats awesome! Im excited to see videos of it running and driving!
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
As promised, the installed picture. It looks odd for some reason. Maybe because everything looks old?
Worked on the glow plug harness last night. I had been browsing the ETM and noticed that in the stock harness there was an 80a fuse for the plugs, and realized my wimpy 30a relay wasn't going to cut it. So I ordered this! Normal size relay for scale. (I know, not a banana...)
I figured that, along with some 4ga cable running to the battery should do the trick.
I took all of the individual wires (after stripping them out of the e28 harness) and ran them through the motor and then connected them all together to one terminal.
I put the relay on the firewall for now, don't know if I will bother moving it because it's a decent spot to begin with.
Wired up the solenoid for the relay and I was in business!
Bolted the turbo down, which required taking the EGR valve back off (irritating process), and bolted up the feed and drain line for the turbo.
I mocked up a quick exhaust by taking part of the old exhaust and welding two washers to it, I don't feel great about it, but I feel better about it than dying from the exhaust filling the cabin. The turbo outlet points straight at the wiring harness pass through on the passenger side, which I will need to plug, but for now the elbow took care of the major problem.As promised.
I think I still have air in one injector line, so I'll have to bleed those again.
I also don't know about the turbo, it has a tight spot when it spins, so something may have been actually messed up before rebuilding it, not sure if the shaft is too scored or something. There is a used turbo for it on ebay that was stated to have no shaft play so I may just buy that for $150.
Next step is coming up with an alternator mount and getting a belt for it. The water pump (need a new one) is in a different spot from an m20 and results in a longer belt. The alternator "should" also be different, but I think I can make the m20 one work. The mounting for this stuff is all different.
You can see that the alternator mounts into that slide bracket deal, and sits up higher.
I'll likely slot a piece of metal and make it a manual adjustment, as the stock setup would require a new alternator (need to verify that) and waiting 6 weeks for the bracket to come from Germany (according to ECS).Overall last night was quite fruitful!
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