Lifted E30 V2
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The new bearings slid in quite nicely.
I started doing that with the HX35, and planned on doing the same for this one, yes. -
Make sure you get that thing properly balanced especially after the wheel has been rubbing on the housing. I'm rebuilding a turbo for my saabaru at the moment and forgot to mark te CHRA in relation to the wheels. I sent it in to get balanced and they said it was good I did since it was way out of balance. Just some food for thought.
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Make sure you get that thing properly balanced especially after the wheel has been rubbing on the housing. I'm rebuilding a turbo for my saabaru at the moment and forgot to mark te CHRA in relation to the wheels. I sent it in to get balanced and they said it was good I did since it was way out of balance. Just some food for thought.
I marked out the wheel to the shaft and the nut. It's all lined back up.
Do I think it's perfect? No
Am I going to spend the money getting a turbo that rubbed balanced? Not thinking soThere is a couple of turbo's for the motor on ebay so if I need one down the road I can grab one, or go with something slightly larger.
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And to top it off, it appears (from my research) that I actually have a Euro M21, as it does not have any electronics other than a fuel solenoid that need to be connected to run it. Guess that was a euro only thing?
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Got some stoof done this weekend!
Converted the fuel system from feeding fuel to feeding diesel.
I took the foam out of the bottom of the fuel cell, time will tell if that was a good move or not.
There was a surprising amount of crap in the bottom of the cell, including some sort of mfg. leftovers!I enjoy the color of diesel
Took out the fuel pump and such from the trunk, and it leaves me with a comically small amount of stuff.The weird part to me at this point is that there is no fuel pressure in any of the chassis lines anymore, only in the injector hard lines. It makes my life easier for sure!
I re-timed the motor and fuel pump as I noticed when switching the timing belt that the crank was not at tdc when everything else was. Brett suggested leaving it that way for the first startup due to potential pump timing issues, and I cleaned up all timing elements.
This is how you read the engine timing.It threads into the back of the pump, and you rotate the motor until you get the highest reading, zero the dial indicator, rotate to tdc again and measure the offset. The timing was a touch too aggressive so I brought it down a little bit, to what most people use as performance timing for the motor.
Sadly the cam isn't in great shape, quite scored where it rides.
I find the vacuum pump kind of cool, as it bolts up to the cam and rides on an extra lobe.
A overall shot for you m20 guys.
Also found that the starter and flywheel were not playing nice together!
There was a lot of metal shavings on the bottom of the bell housing, but it looks like the problem resolved itself so I may just go with it.
Starter doesn't show signs of wear.I guess I didn't take a picture, but I got the motor back in the car and have it all bolted up.
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It is pretty simple which is nice, but the whole thing wont work if there is air in the fuel system.
It's been a messy process trying to get air out of everything, and I'm pretty sure I am not done working at that.
I'm pretty sure I get to re-bleed the injector lines again, when I opened the back of the pump fuel came out and I doubt I cleared all the bubbles when I filled it.
I hope to have it running in the car before the weekend!
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It is pretty simple which is nice, but the whole thing wont work if there is air in the fuel system.
It's been a messy process trying to get air out of everything, and I'm pretty sure I am not done working at that.
I'm pretty sure I get to re-bleed the injector lines again, when I opened the back of the pump fuel came out and I doubt I cleared all the bubbles when I filled it.
I hope to have it running in the car before the weekend!
Thats awesome! Im excited to see videos of it running and driving!
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As promised, the installed picture. It looks odd for some reason. Maybe because everything looks old?
Worked on the glow plug harness last night. I had been browsing the ETM and noticed that in the stock harness there was an 80a fuse for the plugs, and realized my wimpy 30a relay wasn't going to cut it. So I ordered this! Normal size relay for scale. (I know, not a banana...)
I figured that, along with some 4ga cable running to the battery should do the trick.
I took all of the individual wires (after stripping them out of the e28 harness) and ran them through the motor and then connected them all together to one terminal.I put the relay on the firewall for now, don't know if I will bother moving it because it's a decent spot to begin with.
Wired up the solenoid for the relay and I was in business!
Bolted the turbo down, which required taking the EGR valve back off (irritating process), and bolted up the feed and drain line for the turbo.
I mocked up a quick exhaust by taking part of the old exhaust and welding two washers to it, I don't feel great about it, but I feel better about it than dying from the exhaust filling the cabin. The turbo outlet points straight at the wiring harness pass through on the passenger side, which I will need to plug, but for now the elbow took care of the major problem.As promised.
I think I still have air in one injector line, so I'll have to bleed those again.
I also don't know about the turbo, it has a tight spot when it spins, so something may have been actually messed up before rebuilding it, not sure if the shaft is too scored or something. There is a used turbo for it on ebay that was stated to have no shaft play so I may just buy that for $150.
Next step is coming up with an alternator mount and getting a belt for it. The water pump (need a new one) is in a different spot from an m20 and results in a longer belt. The alternator "should" also be different, but I think I can make the m20 one work. The mounting for this stuff is all different.


You can see that the alternator mounts into that slide bracket deal, and sits up higher.
I'll likely slot a piece of metal and make it a manual adjustment, as the stock setup would require a new alternator (need to verify that) and waiting 6 weeks for the bracket to come from Germany (according to ECS).Overall last night was quite fruitful!
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It looks like there is more room in front of the engine than with an M20
Partly true, partly a deceiving angle.
There is no distributor on the front of the engine so that helps.
The power steering pump sits almost in the core support, as I believe the M20 one does, so that area is all the same.
I thought I was getting away from this boost life, but that didn't work
I will need to stuff an intercooler, and oil cooler, and the radiator all in the front of the car again. But this time I have to be more careful with placement so things don't end up impaled! -
That recess in the valve cover looks perfect for an air-water cooler

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It sounds like a school bus and I love it. Glad to see you making quick progress on this swap.
I didn't think about carefully mounting the radiator, etc. Although it doesn't look like an intercooler came stock on these cars?
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I think it needs more roof rack and a shovel mount again. And top mount radiator/intercooler... like top of the car mount.
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