Lifted E30 V2
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Yeah I'd read up everything you can about the injection pump. As Jason suggested I'd make sure it's fit for starting first too as that's most expensive and critical part. Fuel filter should be changed and I'd suggest priming it with Lucas diesel injector cleaner after cracking all the injector lines to bleed air out. It surprising how much air can be in there.
As far a maintenance you should always be running a fuel additive too to help maintain the pump seals and keep the injectors clean. For oil, 1 gal of 15-40 rotella is $13.99 at farm and fleet, its what I run in the M20's anyways.
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I appreciate the input gentlemen, as this whole motor is a new endeavor for me.
Got a good bit of progress this weekend, put the E30 oil pan on it, with the e28 pump (internal pressure relief)
There are straps that hold the block together, thought that was interesting.
I changed the timing belt on it as well, the old one was quite cracked and we all know how m20's like their timing belts...
It's kind of odd because the timing belt is a multi-rib on one side, and a timing belt tooth style on the other.
I wish I would have taken a picture under the valve cover because it is not like a normal m20!Pulled a whole bunch of random crap off the motor, like cruise control, and all of the other 5 series niceties.
Luckily a friend of mine was in town this weekend who has done a bit of work with older diesel VW's and he came over and lent a hand. I can confidently say that he is the reason I am posting this update.
We put both fuel lines into a bucket of diesel and hooked a vacuum pump up to the #6 injector return and started sucking diesel through the system. After that we hooked up a sketchy array of batteries and a charger to get the thing to crank over. The starter motor is just about 3x stronger than the gas motor so it takes some grunt to get it moving!
I cranked the starter while he cracked injector lines to bleed air out, and we could start smelling a little bit of burnt fuel, no running, just something happening.
Decided to crack open the harness (it was on at this point) and connect the glow plugs together and give those some voltage before cranking it.
It ran on the first crank after heating the glow plugs!Went for another go and had some humor to go with it!
I didn't have the drain line for the turbo, and the turbo is in need of a rebuild so I threw it on just to quiet things down a touch, well apparently the turbo feed moves a lot more oil than I would have thought.
Brett took a second to kill it because the motor was actually running without human intervention, so he had to actually remove the 12v wire from the fuel solenoid (which was a bright yellow wire that was barely clipped to the battery for this exact reason)
You can see/hear air working out of the system in the second video, it was shaking and running poorly to start, then an injector cleared and it started running somewhat well.
Next steps, insert motor in chassis, get proper oil flow and fill block with coolant, then get the motor to the point where I can verify the thing will run on its own without throttle assistance.
Step by step I will get this thing rolling coal!Current state of compressor wheel
Current state of compressor housing
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Cool shit. You embedded the same video twice, FYI.
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Woah! Glad you got it to kick over and run. This is going to kick ass!
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Well either Flickr is being dumb or my connection here is mediocre. Not sure which one.
Ordered a rebuild kit for the stock turbo, going to just rebuild that one.
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Okay, this is getting annoying. The links pull the video in then when I post it just goes white.
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Same thing happened here.
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Not sure what happened but now all the videos are gone. Flickr is great for photos, I've never relied on them for video. Try YouTube.
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Tore the stock turbo apart last night and replaced the bearings, as the old ones were absolutely terrible.
The compressor wheel did indeed rub the housing a bit, but for now it's whatever. I grabbed a generic T3 rebuild kit from ebay for $30 and it worked perfectly.
I didn't take a ton of pictures
After I got the CHRA all stripped down
The edge of this guy was a bit concerning, as the compressor housing had similar markings, but we shall see if it was detrimental!
I wish someone else was around to see it, but as you can see by the mangled snap ring I got a bit annoyed with it and ended up using a screwdriver to push the edge in until it shot out of the housing. It flew up and hit the wall probably 10 feet up, and then I heard it land in the plastic tray with all of the new parts. I quick glanced for it and didn't see it. When I went to grab a new snap ring I saw the bent and oily one sitting in with all of the others. It flew right into its proper spot in the tray!
New bearings in, with new snap rings.
All together!
I pumped some oil into it to see how it felt, and it has no perceivable shaft play, and spun fairly well. I'm sure once it gets spun by the exhaust for awhile it will wear in a touch and free up a little bit, but even if it doesn't change it is a large improvement over what it had been.
Next step, time the motor and fuel pump!
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The new bearings slid in quite nicely.
I started doing that with the HX35, and planned on doing the same for this one, yes. -
Make sure you get that thing properly balanced especially after the wheel has been rubbing on the housing. I'm rebuilding a turbo for my saabaru at the moment and forgot to mark te CHRA in relation to the wheels. I sent it in to get balanced and they said it was good I did since it was way out of balance. Just some food for thought.
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Make sure you get that thing properly balanced especially after the wheel has been rubbing on the housing. I'm rebuilding a turbo for my saabaru at the moment and forgot to mark te CHRA in relation to the wheels. I sent it in to get balanced and they said it was good I did since it was way out of balance. Just some food for thought.
I marked out the wheel to the shaft and the nut. It's all lined back up.
Do I think it's perfect? No
Am I going to spend the money getting a turbo that rubbed balanced? Not thinking soThere is a couple of turbo's for the motor on ebay so if I need one down the road I can grab one, or go with something slightly larger.
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Some throwback pics as I browse through Flickr
Pictures make me miss the 325, reality makes me not miss it.
This concludes photo dumps, with Ben
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And to top it off, it appears (from my research) that I actually have a Euro M21, as it does not have any electronics other than a fuel solenoid that need to be connected to run it. Guess that was a euro only thing?
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Got some stoof done this weekend!
Converted the fuel system from feeding fuel to feeding diesel.
I took the foam out of the bottom of the fuel cell, time will tell if that was a good move or not.
There was a surprising amount of crap in the bottom of the cell, including some sort of mfg. leftovers!
I enjoy the color of diesel
Took out the fuel pump and such from the trunk, and it leaves me with a comically small amount of stuff.
The weird part to me at this point is that there is no fuel pressure in any of the chassis lines anymore, only in the injector hard lines. It makes my life easier for sure!
I re-timed the motor and fuel pump as I noticed when switching the timing belt that the crank was not at tdc when everything else was. Brett suggested leaving it that way for the first startup due to potential pump timing issues, and I cleaned up all timing elements.
This is how you read the engine timing.
It threads into the back of the pump, and you rotate the motor until you get the highest reading, zero the dial indicator, rotate to tdc again and measure the offset. The timing was a touch too aggressive so I brought it down a little bit, to what most people use as performance timing for the motor.
Sadly the cam isn't in great shape, quite scored where it rides.
I find the vacuum pump kind of cool, as it bolts up to the cam and rides on an extra lobe.
A overall shot for you m20 guys.
Also found that the starter and flywheel were not playing nice together!
There was a lot of metal shavings on the bottom of the bell housing, but it looks like the problem resolved itself so I may just go with it.
Starter doesn't show signs of wear.
I guess I didn't take a picture, but I got the motor back in the car and have it all bolted up.
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