E21 Project Thread - Part 2
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Since mitch asked, here is what I had to do to "rebuild" the shortened cv axles.
First thing was to clean all the old grease out of the cv joints. I soaked them in a can of parts cleaner for 24 hours then blasted them with my air sprayer in a can of mineral spirits. Blew them off with air hose and let them air dry.

I taped off the mounting holes and inner spline hole, then proceeded to pack them with new grease. I used half the pack of grease that was included in my new boot kits from W&N.

Once they were all packed with grease, I installed the rear cap and boots. It was nice that W&N pre-installed the boot and clamp so I didn't need to buy a clamp pliers. I put 3 of the mounting bolts through the holes to line it all up, then tapped it on lightly with a hammer.


I then went ahead and painted the axles.

Installing the joints onto the axles were tricky, but once I got the first done the last three became easier. With the remaining half pack of grease, I put half of that into the boot and the rest on in the other side of the cv joint. Slide clamp on, put axle through boot, lightly but firmly tapped the cv joint back onto the splines of the axle, installed c-clip, and tapped outer cap on with hammer, done.

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Thanks Jerf!
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What's next?
Lots!!!
Hoping tomorrow I can get the subframe and diff mocked up so I can mark where the diff hanger mounts need to be welded in. Make the mounts, burn them in and coat them. Then I can install the rear end for good after that.
Still cranking away on the body work. Picked up some epoxy primer that I will be spraying all the bare metal with before doing the body filler. Been reading up on it and have asked a few body work guys and they all say the same thing. Whats left is welding up the holes for the rear side marker deletes, cut/weld the wheel arches for flare fitment, then fix all the small areas around the car. Epoxy primer, skim coat body filler, sand, sand and more sanding.
Also still need to fix the fuel leak between the oem fuel line fitting and fuel hose to rail, fix the exhaust leak at the manifold (i'm suspecting), install the headlights, and finish control panel wiring.
Once I get my tax return, tires will be first on my shopping list too.
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Subframe and diff are temporarily (possibly permanently depending on if they're in the way or not) installed, thanks as always to Brian's help! Ran into a few snags, mostly being the stock diff mount had to be cut out for the diff to fully seat. Got that done. Looks like I'll need to do some slicing and dicing to the frame brace. Diff hangers are already touching that brace and don't want any vibration problems.
Plan of attack is sectioning the frame where the mounts need to be and boxing it all back in once the new hangers are welded. Welding/boxing it all in will give the rigidity back to the structure. Oh how I wish I had a lift to make this a lot easier. Sigh!







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Got some epoxy primer sprayed down on the rear valance to keep it from rusting and also give a protective base before body filler. Still have a few spots to grind/sand smooth too. Pretty close on the color just for fun. [emoji4]

Also, ordered some goodies, but alas, my bad luck with shipping shows through again. Only 2 of the 4 were delivered. What the crap!?!

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Hankook rs4! Very nice
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I'm sure you already called, but tire rack usually has some pretty good customer service. I'm sure they'll get it sorted out
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It was on UPS's side of things. Somewhere along the way UPS put them on separate trucks, so the last 2 tires showed up yesterday. Just glad I didn't have to deal with lost package BS. Time to get them mounted and balanced!
I also picked up the material from Speedy Metals to do the chassis diff mount work. Not looking forward to removing the undercoating or for welding upside down. But, you gotta do what ya gotta do.
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It was on UPS's side of things. Somewhere along the way UPS put them on separate trucks, so the last 2 tires showed up yesterday. Just glad I didn't have to deal with lost package BS. Time to get them mounted and balanced!
I also picked up the material from Speedy Metals to do the chassis diff mount work. Not looking forward to removing the undercoating or for welding upside down. But, you gotta do what ya gotta do.
Use a sharp, stiff putty knife. It will make less or a mess and actually work better than a wire wheel. You could use a pneumatic needle gun too=)
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