V8 Swapped E30
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the next step was to fix the rear end. I started out by cutting out the rust and straightening the back end with a huge steel bar and a scissor jack. I also used a huge hammer.
I cut away as much as I could. the next problem was to try and make the frame strong again. I ended up using a piece of angle iron.
I also built a new battery box for the car.
i was tossing around how cool it would be to put in a V8 inside the car, but i never really pulled the trigger. i ended up putting the M50 swap for sale and i told myself that if i sell the motor in a month then, i would do a V8 swap.
a couple weeks later i ended up selling the swap.
two weeks after that i bought a mock up block for the car. shit was starting to get real.
i bought the swap kit from sikky racing and once i got the parts in i was more than impressed. i got the oil pan, oil pick up tube, oil filter relocation kit, dip stick, driveshaft, motor mounts, trans mounts and the hardware for $2,000.
the mock up block fit perfectly. i also removed the front core support.
the plan was to just paint over the rear quarter with OEM paint to keep costs down, but i was drinking in the garage and i ended up sanding down the whole passenger side of the car.
i decided i wanted to learn how to do body work so this was a fun learning experience. i first sanded down the rear quarter and then i moved to a fender to see how i would do from start to finish paint.
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the fender was the piece that i learned on.
i sanded, sanded then sanded some more. eventually i got the fender straight and free of dents. time to put some primer on this and see if i can paint this fender.
after a couple of beers, my confidence was at an all time high. it was time to lay some paint on this fender and see how it turns out. i used that paint from autozone that is premixed and same with the clear coat. this was an experiment to see how i did with painting and to see if i could atleast paint. once i painted the fender and laid the clear on i wet sanded and buffed it out.
it turned out pretty decent, but i learned a lot when painting the fender. i also got a few tips from a couple painters on how to make everything tunr out better. on to the rear quarter again. i had to hammer out the rear quarter to make it as straight as possible before i put bondo on it. i wish i had pictures of the damage before i straightened the rear quarter, but i never took them. if to ook at how the frame rail was, then you can get a good idea on how messed up the rear quarter was.
i got it as straight as i could and then i laid the bondo on it.
the rear quarter is finally fixed and the last part of the car is the back end, but that will be later on.
i sprayed primer on the rear quarter and i started on the other side.
i also decided to shave the antenna hole, so i broke out the razor and shaving cream and got to work.
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and the body work continues...
the other night i bought a 6.0 L96 V8 for 1200 bucks. not bad for a V8 with 360 horse and 380 torque from the factory. fully complete from oil pan to intake. i stripped off the AC condencer, power steering, accessories. i need to take off the intake manifold and then ill eventually have it gone through. im now looking for a T56 trans to complete my swap. once i find that i will buy the Cage for it and then finish the mock up before i paint the car.
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I try to keep my build threads current, but I fail too hard at it. The only way I keep up is with Instagram. My next post with pictures will probably be in 3 months hahaha.
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I've done most of the body work with at least two to three beers in me to stay focused otherwise I wouldn't of a been able to do the body work. a lot of this stuff is tedious work, but its a great learning experience.
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This is awesome!
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its going to be a while before I get this thing running and driving. I still have to find a trans and buy the cage for the car. after that I need to figure out a dash, plus a whole interior. I want to hopefully start it and figure out the bay before I paint it. I also have to reinforce the rear end so I don't rip out my diff. I still have a lot, but hopefully I can get it close to finished next year.
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Nice. I'm doing a BMW V8 swap so not entirely the same, but if you have any questions or need a hand with anything shoot me a message. I'm over in Milwaukee.
Edit - I just sold a 102MM Fast intake/ported TB, but still have some ls6 injections/fuel rail if you are interested.
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Im going to go with an ls3 intake with rails and injectors. Surprisingly the swap is very straight forward, its just affording a trans and wiring that's the only thing that's presenting a problem, but its not too big of a problem.
I took off the intake and wiring harness tonight. I want to take it out to get some work done soon to make it quick and reliable.
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I took the time to try and fit the 6.0 in the car the other day. I day to pound out the trans tunnel with a hammer. the combination of beers and a hammer caused my trans tunnel to split and create a hole. I will fix that once I get more gas for the welder. right now it works as of right now, the motor fits in the car.
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well after a few months of dumping all my money into my VW and other E30, I didn't get anything done on the V8 swap. I tore it down and decided what im going to do for power. I cleaned it up, painted and installed the oil pan. I also ordered a couple gaskets and sensors that I broke along the way.im also starting to buy the accessories for the front.
im switching to LS1 accessories so i started by buying a LS1 crank pulley.
here is a basic idea of what the motor looks like now. i have the motor mounts back on it now.
i ordered a pedal assembly for the car so when that gets here i can start running lines.
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Kind of reminds me of a Paul Poore SE30 pan
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The oil pan is specifically built for LS bassed e30 swaps. I am currently prepping the cab for the cage by getting all of the tar out, which is not fun.
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The oil pan is specifically built for LS bassed e30 swaps. I am currently prepping the cab for the cage by getting all of the tar out, which is not fun.
Dry ice is your friend.
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I learned that the hard way. It wasn't hard to get the sound deadning out, it was the residue. I used aircraft remover and it worked great, but I should've used dry ice.
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