Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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holy beans thats a lot of warp. Sounds like your gasket or something wasn't quite right. Couldn't imagine them sending it out like that. but you never know.
I have a 3" thick piece of mild steel with the 24v bolt pattern on it. I would try and bring it up to temp in the oven bolted down, and hopefully get it closer to straight, before milling of .060. retorque when its up to temp, and put it back in for a few hours.
WE do this often in house for things that easily warp during heat treat.
I built the jig for welding manifolds, so they do not warp as bad, and I can back purge them easily.
sk8 or die
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My head wasn't warped at all. Chris just milled the detonation marks away.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Where are the directions for this thing??!
If you look at the first pic you can see where the connector was digging into the MS3x.
@DrLeadFoot
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Where are the directions for this thing??!
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oh man thats a bummer already broken. You do not have the best luck
It's all good
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@DrLeadFoot
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Bent up shit like that shouldn't happen. I'd send for a new one
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Intake Air Temp bung welded by Dan the Exhaust Man.
This transcamarobird was getting a cage custom made by Dan.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Cleaned up the carbon build up on the pistons as well as sanding down some detonation marks.
Before:
After:
I also mic'd the ARP2000 head studs:
If you can't read my want-to-be (real) doctor handwriting it goes a little something like this:
All numbers start with 114.xx
---Front of motor---
.33 .32.48 .37
.40 .26
.44 .35
.42 .43
.32 .34
.41 .30
---Rear of Motor---I have a couple of theories of why the head gasket was leaking.
1. The bolts stretched due to the tune running super rich and stretching the bolts over time.
2. There was some red loc-tite on the threads of some of the block threads. I had Kummrow torque down the head so I'm not too sure about how fast they torqued down the bolts. If there was any significant time lapse between installing the head bolts and actually torquing down them down to spec with the use of loc-tite the loc-tite would have hardened up with the bolts just sitting there having gravity pulling them down. Then torquing them down wouldn't be a true torque due to the loc-tite in between the threads.
3. Does that red ARP torque lube dry and look like red loc-tite? Then back to theory #1.
4. The bolts were a pain to take out of the block. I needed to use a small pipe wrench to crack them loose. (See theory #2) It took about 25lbs of force to break them loose. To my theory #4, were the bolts tightened down too much making them slightly cock-eyed and when torqued down the force stretched them from the beginning?
@DrLeadFoot
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I dont particularly think its a bad thing to put a SMALL dab of BLUE loctite on the threads that go into the block, Im curious as to whether they were installed hand tight to begin with like they are supposed to or if they were cranked in with an allen wrench.
Im going with stretch caused by detonation.
Good combustion is deflagration
Bad combustion is detonation
Deflagration/ good combustion is a smooth and "slow" (subsonic) combustion that propagates through heat transfer ("cold" air/fuel mix becomes ignited by being next to a "hot" air/fuel mix which was activated by the spark plug.) think of the fuel mixture as doing the wave at a Brewers game where the wave is activated by the people standing next to you and you pass it on the people on your other side
Detonation is a rapid (supersonic) combustion that is spontaneous and rapid and would be more like a large meteor crashing into Miller Park which compells everyone to do the wave whether they like it or not much too forcefully and rapidly.
The forces present during detonation are huge
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Did a little bit of work on the ECU.
BMW coils
Cutting the bottom row of pins on the ECU
@DrLeadFoot
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Kyle is wrestling with the manifold.
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@DrLeadFoot
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He got it as good as he could. I guess the belt sander over heated 2 times
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@DrLeadFoot
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Ummmmmmm
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@DrLeadFoot
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Lol
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