Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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I want to stay on pump gas. I do have some bits for meth injection but haven't fully pulled the trigger on it. I also have a rally road billet fuel rail that is collecting dust in the garage too.
I also got a brand new OEM S54 oil filter housing. Thinking of running the VAC A/N fitting bolt on and running an oil cooler. Seemed to be the cheapest option with my limited research.
@DrLeadFoot
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I can help with ms3 where needed, though I still think you should make a harness instead of using the old one
How much did the new housing run ya if you don't mind sharing?
I assume you got ms3x ?
Yay for more tuning goodness! -
I can help with ms3 where needed, though I still think you should make a harness instead of using the old one
How much did the new housing run ya if you don't mind sharing?
I assume you got ms3x ?
Yay for more tuning goodness!
$300 for the housing if i remember correctly with my discount.
I did get MS3x.
I'll try to give my harness a whirl and go from there. I'm just thinking that wire is wire and if it works it works
@DrLeadFoot
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Not a bad price at all on the housing!
I can help with the harness, feel free to bother me with questions if you have them! -
Not a bad price at all on the housing!
I can help with the harness, feel free to bother me with questions if you have them!
Don't tempt me with that! Snap's phone is going through batteries like I go through head gaskets at the moment.
@DrLeadFoot
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Ha! Perfect!
For real, it's not a big deal. -
Just talked to the machines and my #2 valve seal was turned inside out causing oil to leak in the #2 seal. I was super worried that it my be piston rings.
He also checked my blunt tech manifold for straightness and it was off .060 and he doesn't have the right jig to mill it down.
My head has been milled down to the maximum. 5.500" total thickness. It's a new head if this one goes... Come on Megasquirt!
All new valve seals have been installed and no valves were bent!
@DrLeadFoot
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holy beans thats a lot of warp. Sounds like your gasket or something wasn't quite right. Couldn't imagine them sending it out like that. but you never know.
I have a 3" thick piece of mild steel with the 24v bolt pattern on it. I would try and bring it up to temp in the oven bolted down, and hopefully get it closer to straight, before milling of .060. retorque when its up to temp, and put it back in for a few hours.
WE do this often in house for things that easily warp during heat treat.
I built the jig for welding manifolds, so they do not warp as bad, and I can back purge them easily.
sk8 or die
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My head wasn't warped at all. Chris just milled the detonation marks away.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Where are the directions for this thing??!
If you look at the first pic you can see where the connector was digging into the MS3x.
@DrLeadFoot
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Where are the directions for this thing??!
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oh man thats a bummer already broken. You do not have the best luck
It's all good
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@DrLeadFoot
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Bent up shit like that shouldn't happen. I'd send for a new one
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Intake Air Temp bung welded by Dan the Exhaust Man.
This transcamarobird was getting a cage custom made by Dan.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Cleaned up the carbon build up on the pistons as well as sanding down some detonation marks.
Before:
After:
I also mic'd the ARP2000 head studs:
If you can't read my want-to-be (real) doctor handwriting it goes a little something like this:
All numbers start with 114.xx
---Front of motor---
.33 .32.48 .37
.40 .26
.44 .35
.42 .43
.32 .34
.41 .30
---Rear of Motor---I have a couple of theories of why the head gasket was leaking.
1. The bolts stretched due to the tune running super rich and stretching the bolts over time.
2. There was some red loc-tite on the threads of some of the block threads. I had Kummrow torque down the head so I'm not too sure about how fast they torqued down the bolts. If there was any significant time lapse between installing the head bolts and actually torquing down them down to spec with the use of loc-tite the loc-tite would have hardened up with the bolts just sitting there having gravity pulling them down. Then torquing them down wouldn't be a true torque due to the loc-tite in between the threads.
3. Does that red ARP torque lube dry and look like red loc-tite? Then back to theory #1.
4. The bolts were a pain to take out of the block. I needed to use a small pipe wrench to crack them loose. (See theory #2) It took about 25lbs of force to break them loose. To my theory #4, were the bolts tightened down too much making them slightly cock-eyed and when torqued down the force stretched them from the beginning?
@DrLeadFoot
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I dont particularly think its a bad thing to put a SMALL dab of BLUE loctite on the threads that go into the block, Im curious as to whether they were installed hand tight to begin with like they are supposed to or if they were cranked in with an allen wrench.
Im going with stretch caused by detonation.
Good combustion is deflagration
Bad combustion is detonation
Deflagration/ good combustion is a smooth and "slow" (subsonic) combustion that propagates through heat transfer ("cold" air/fuel mix becomes ignited by being next to a "hot" air/fuel mix which was activated by the spark plug.) think of the fuel mixture as doing the wave at a Brewers game where the wave is activated by the people standing next to you and you pass it on the people on your other side
Detonation is a rapid (supersonic) combustion that is spontaneous and rapid and would be more like a large meteor crashing into Miller Park which compells everyone to do the wave whether they like it or not much too forcefully and rapidly.
The forces present during detonation are huge
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