1JZ E30 Vert Build Thread with Pastry filled wheels

[Jdesign]

More updates. Since I had the back seat out to remove the subframe, I took my seat to a local friend of a friend that does interior upholstery to have the top of the seat restitched. The plastic rear window amplifies the sun and bakes the top of almost all the vert rear seats. My seat was extremely dry and fragile when I got the car, and after the first year of owning it and packing people into the back, the stitching gave away. I have since added lots and lots of leather replenishing chemicals and the leather has bounced back quite well, so I finally got it fixed. I unfortunately did not take any before pictures of the seat, but here is what it looks like now that I got it back(I have since cleaned and replenished the leather).

Focusing back on the suspension, I go the new control arms installed, along with the new sway bar links and brackets, the calipers I rebuilt, and I installed the new lines. it all came together very nice and I am getting excited to drive this thing more and more each day.

New sway bar links

Old brake line

New VS. Old brake lines side by side

Everything installed and back together minus the wheels

I also rebuilt the calipers, but due to having brake fluid all over, I didn't take any pictures.

[Jdesign]

Heres one more for good measure

[YoungCR]

Looks great! Gonna drive like a new car

[Jdesign]

CYoung said:

Looks great! Gonna drive like a new car

Thanks! I am super excited!

[Doorman]

Lookin perrrrtrty!!!

[Jdesign]

Doorman said:

Lookin perrrrtrty!!!

Thanks!!!

[Jdesign]

Well I got more accomplished last night before I fell asleep under the car somewhere around 3am. I managed to get the diff cover off, blast it, clean it, paint it, put a gasket in there (there wasnt one at all :/), and bolt it to the subframe. 

I installed new axles because I messed up the boot on one of them and it was cheaper to order a set then use the rebuild kit anyways. So I returned the rebuild kit and ended up with these bad boys

Installing them was a bit of a challenge since I wanted to put them on outside of the car. I used two Allen keys with the new hardware I bought and held the axle in place with one while I use the other key to  torque the other axle into place.

The result was very satisfying though

I then managed to BY MYSELF raise the sub frame into the car with two dolly's, a floor jack, two jack-stands, and some misc wood. I only have a few pictures here as this was extremely hard by myself. I could have waited for help, but I was anxious to get it together. 

In the end, I managed to get it installed and the drive shaft bolted up. I had to wedge the sub frame studs back through the holes behind the interior panels, slight pounding and yelling ensued.  I also installed the new sway bar links(while I laughed and made jokes about the cute sway bar that most likely does nothing anyways) and also ran all the new stainless brake lines, and bolted the ABS sensors and Ebrake cables back into place. Somewhere along this process is where I fell asleep on the comfy Creeper and woke up confused around 4am. I will take pictures when I finally install the brakes and power bleed the system very soon!!!

[GunMetalGrey]

Do not use the axle nuts that come with those half shafts, buy new ones and lock plates.

It all looks so shiny!

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

Do not use the axle nuts that come with those half shafts, buy new ones and lock plates. It all looks so shiny!

Wait what? I have new axle nuts for the half shalfs and I have new locking plates as well. Why should I not use them?

[GunMetalGrey]

Are they OEM Halfshafts? 
If so no worries.

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

Are they OEM Halfshafts? 

If so no worries.

They are not, but I got them on Worldpac, so they are high quality. Have you had an Axle nut fail before?

[GunMetalGrey]

I had issues with the supplied hardware for an aftermarket or reman axle once, the axle also lasted 150 miles lol.
I have not had good luck with aftermarket axles, so I hope these work fine for you.

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

I had issues with the supplied hardware for an aftermarket or reman axle once, the axle also lasted 150 miles lol.

I have not had good luck with aftermarket axles, so I hope these work fine for you. 

Ahh, yeah I have had issues with axles before on other cars. These look to be great quality, I am not too worried. I will let you know if a few thousand miles how they hold up.

[Jdesign]

I never shared photos of pressing the new bearings in.. So let me step back a sec...

Heres the tool of choice...

using some random old bearing races and chunks of aluminum, I was able to press out the hubs, then the bearings. 

One thing I learned from this whole ordeal was that it sucks if you accidentally bend the shields. They hold the e-brake shoes a specific distance from the swing arms. Once they are tweaked, it takes a lot of manipulating and patience to get them just right again so that everything lines up. Something that should have taken me 20 minutes now took me over 2 hours. 

At the end of the day, everything went together well and I was happy.

Before

After

[jc43089]

Looks awesome, its all about having the right tools.

Sent from my potato phone

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

Looks awesome, its all about having the right tools. Sent from my potato phone

Thanks, and it sure does help having the right tools for the job!

[Jdesign]

So, I drove the car for the first time last night, and I drove it to work today. Unfortunately from sitting apart with no fluid in the master cylinder for so long, it failed. I have a tilton that I bought from Jason89i but I dont want to install it just yet because I need to figure out new lines and mounting. So I will be installing a new master and possibly a booster if that is bad too(I hope not). Other than that the car drove rather good and feels a lot more solid and responsive now that everything is new. I also was able to lower it more since the bushings are not all sloppy and flexy.

[Jdesign]

So my new master cylinder should be showing up today as I paid for express shipping. My new issue is the LSD 4.10 diff I just installed. At speeds is whines or whurrs loudly so I assume a bearing is bad. Besides that, under load, or initial power engagement, there is a clunk coming from the rear end. at first I was assuming it was the new axles, but now under further inspection, I am fairly certain it is worn gears or clutch discs inside the Diff. It seemed smooth outside of the car, but that's no comparison to actually putting it under load.I also just swapped new royal purple fluid into it praying it would make a difference. I need a new LSD while I rebuild this one. Does anyone have a good LSD 3.73 or 4.10 they are willing to part with?

[CMart]

I would sell my 4.10 small case LSD if I had a lead on a <3.50 medium case lsd

[Jdesign]

I can give you my 4.10 LSD and my 3.73 OPEN in trade....