Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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With a proper tune this should be easy.
I just really want a steak date...
This dyno run will be a base to send to trm for tweaking.
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@DrLeadFoot
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20-24psi. Whatever spring combo gets me up in that range. That is my turbo's g-spot.
@DrLeadFoot
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What fuel
and are your connecting rod and head studs upgraded?
91/93 octane.
I have K1 rods w/ARP hardware on them. The head studs are stock diameter ARPs.
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@DrLeadFoot
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20-24psi. Whatever spring combo gets me up in that range. That is my turbo's g-spot.
I know next to nothing about turbos and that number sound incredible.
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20-24psi. Whatever spring combo gets me up in that range. That is my turbo's g-spot.
Jesus.
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20-24psi. Whatever spring combo gets me up in that range. That is my turbo's g-spot.
I know next to nothing about turbos and that number sound incredible.
20-24psi. Whatever spring combo gets me up in that range. That is my turbo's g-spot.
Jesus.
I'm at 15 now and running super rich. On a fully built motor I #should be good on this.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Took a trip out to Rat'z barn where I had built my car. Got my BOV line finished up, bought another propane heater and had a beer.
Rat'z Sno-Commander
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@DrLeadFoot
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yea honestly 550 with a built s52 i would be sad. Why did you pick 9.2:1 pistons for pump gas? Or maybe you just wanted something reliable around those numbers. Not bashing or anything, just wondering.
My goal of building this was to have it as a badass daily driver so I want the tune to reflect what the car will be doing 90% of the time.
Truth be told I have no idea what the HP will be after I crank the boost up. I tend to under promise and have the car over deliver. The first and only dyno pull I guessed the HP at 385 and it did 422.
My main 3 fears are 1) Pushing the limits of the motor and blowing the head gasket or something worse. 2) Having the stock rear diff mount rip out. 3) Blowing up the stock getrag 260 that has 250,000+ on it.
All those fears add up to not wanting to spend anymore big $$$ or having more summer down time. I wanna drive!
We will see what the dyno will say. I'd like it to be more horsepower heavy than torquey to save the tranny and diff mounts.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I'm not there yet! Don't get me wrong, if I'm putting down 650 after the new tune I will be a grinning goofball.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Either way this thing is amazing!!!
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Either way this thing is amazing!!!
Thanks!
I'm really excited to see what the dyno will read after addressing a couple of areas over these past months:
- 2 Vacuum leaks fixed
- ICV snap in fitting on the intake manifold RTV'd shut. This kept on popping out during hard pulls.
- Crushed plastic barbed fitting leading to ICV.
- Spark plugs
- Triple checked the gap to .021 on all plugs.
- Having all plug openings exactly, let me say it again, exactly facing away from the intake side to help prevent blowout.
- Vacuum on the crank case via exhaust.
- I slightly ported out the valve cover vent hole for better flow.
- Putting vacuum on the CC helps the pistons move downward easier therefore making more power.
- I need to hook up a gauge to this to see how much it is working.
- Full exhaust
- This might hurt my HP numbers but help with torque? Maybe? Input please.
I put down 422 with the plugs breaking up at 5k rpm and major vacuum leaks. It will be cool to see how much of a difference all these little problems hindered the output.
I should be able to get in the garage tomorrow morning and get to getting to button everything up.
@DrLeadFoot
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oh gosh why O__O
I just popped the intake manifold off to get at the heater core hoses easily.
I'm headed back into the garage to start putting everything back together after I eat.
@DrLeadFoot
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