My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)
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I picked up my order of stainless bolts yesterday=)
While I was there I dropped off the bolt for the oil filter housing to see if they can make me one out of stainless with a socket head. We have another idea if they cannot make one.
I also dropped off one of my fender screws to see if they can find a stainless socket head screw that would work. I want to run some Downstar fender washers, but BMW decided that a metal screw was better than the usual m6 hardware......
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I got the oil filter bolt modified today.
To me it looked terrible with it being the only non stainless socket head bolt. After thinking of a few ways to do it, this seemed the easiest and made the most sense.
The head of the bolt was faced off and a hole was drilled down the center. We then tapped the hole to 5/16-18. The socket head bolt threads in, acting as a new head.
The black oxidized bolt is just for mock-up. I have a 5/16-18x3/8" stainless bolt on order. Once it arrives I will use a strong thread sealant to essentially make the bolt one solid piece.
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That would suck if there was an oops moment and the sealant broke loose.
    @DrLeadFoot
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I got out to the shop yesterday. It felt great to be back at it.
I started off by fitting the latest batch of stainless hardware. All of them fit great except for one of the alternator bracket bolts. The one that they gave me is way too short=/ I will be ordering it when I pick up my oil filter housing bolt today or tomorrow. I didn't get any pictures because my engine is in a dark corner.
I also test fit the modified oil filter housing bolt with the temporary head.
It will fit right in when the stainless bolt is there and sealed in.
After I got all of those in I decided to mount my trans bushings for now.
While I was doing all of this myself, my friend Greaser Kyle was in the bay. He started by patching the indent behind the drivers side tower.
There are these indents on the inside of the strut towers.
Originally I had planned to use black plastic plugs in the holes to clean them up, but Kyle was in a patching mood.
He then filled in the seam along the bottom of the tower.
Since that patch went so well, Kyle wants to patch a lot of indents that I was just going to leave alone. He is the artist here and it will lead to a much cleaner look. That is completely fine by me=)
I will be back at it this weekend. Hopefully I will have a good update
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Usually welders want women. Thats why I'm not so quick to hire them. Might want to prep the GF.
hahahahaha He is a good friend. Hopefully he wouldn't try and pull that=P
Looking good - spring is gonna be here fast!
I know=( Being one handed really kills productivity.
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Since I am going through the trouble of making almost everything new, I am going to tackles front hubs.
I have been looking around to see what's available and have seen a few interesting things.
The cheaper ones use a rougher casting that requires less machining. I am unsure of the bearing quality, but I am sure they aren't as well made as the more expensive ones.
I am stuck between these two on ECS Tuning:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2091579/
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES10373/
The top one is an example of the cheaper casting, but I am unsure of how well it does the job.
I am thinking I should play it safe and buy the more expensive SKF assembly. The thing that gets me is the $80 price difference for a pair. Are the SKF assemblies going to outlast and out perform the MTC assemblies enough to justify higher price tag.
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I never cheap out on bearings, especially on something that might see -69 degrees of camber.Â
You CAN however, find quality bearings for a decent price if you look hard enough.Â
but,
YOLO and you may have good luck with the MTC stuff so this whole post is pointless.
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