New ride! 89 e30 vert
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After waiting for 4 hours for a AAA tow truck to haul the car 3 miles... I got the car to it's home for the winter, nice storage unit 3 blocks from my house so when my e36 is out of the garage I will just drive it over here in reverse.
As for the manual swap been doing a bit of research. This seems to be a pretty easy job, this guy on e30tech made a great write up. http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108141
Any tips/recommendations from people who have done a swap before are welcome. Out of curiosity who on here has done an auto to manual swap?
I would like to use a lightweight flywheel and replace all chassis bushings with street poly ones but in the end this will probably get sold to my parents. My dad would like a cool car to cruise around in now that the kids are moving out. so I will probably just use OEM bushings. The writeup mentions using an e21 323 flywheel, it is identical to the "i" flywheel but less material on the engine side, 14.5 pounds instead of 18ish so I may go with that if I can find one for a decent price.
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The Ireland Engineering street poly bushings are very streetable and much easier to install than OE rubber. You cant go wrong with OE rubber but you will just need a press to get them in.
I would plan on removing the engine for the trans swap. It is very simple to do so and makes the swap 1000x easier. I had a stripped top bellhousing bolt and had to pull the whole thing anyways.
Installing the pedals was by far the biggest hassle. Bassboy and I also discovered a very quick way to bleed a clutch for when you get to that point.
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The Ireland Engineering street poly bushings are very streetable and much easier to install than OE rubber. You cant go wrong with OE rubber but you will just need a press to get them in.
I would plan on removing the engine for the trans swap. It is very simple to do so and makes the swap 1000x easier. I had a stripped top bellhousing bolt and had to pull the whole thing anyways.
Installing the pedals was by far the biggest hassle. Bassboy and I also discovered a very quick way to bleed a clutch for when you get to that point.
I'd also reccomend pulling the engine, its a pain to try and line up the transmission input shaft while the engine is still in the car. Plus as Snap said it sucks getting to the top bell housing bolt.
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I have the same con list, except that mine goes forward too.
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Sounds good on pulling the engine, I will be replacing seals and all that jazz so that will be easier with engine out as well. Too bad the rad support doesn't just come off of the e30's the same as e36's or does it? Hmm I will have to do some thinking on the bushing choice, I have UUC red RTAB's in my e36 and they squeak because I did not use the correct lube. What lube have others used and does it have to reapplied after a few years or just at install?
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Something like this.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
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Snap u just never know what us boys of the southwest are up...
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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Haha no m50 swap, Mike came over and we got it from the storage unit into the garage driving in reverse the whole way.
Goodbye to you
and you
and you Mr kickdown cable
Got it up on stands and I drained fluids while Mike took out the shifter
Exhaust removed, the muffler wasn't attached to the pipes anymore so I will have to fix that up.
Next up, pull driveshaft, and order a few things.
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John,
Thanks for letting Damian and I stop by yesterday. The 'vert is even prettier in person.
As we were leaving Damian goes "your friends really nice but I kind of hate him right now" he spent the rest of the day about how you got a clean e30 vert for cheap monies
M50) said:
I removed mine! Makes for awesome engine mock ups haha
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