The Dirty Dolphin build thread
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Rock Auto has a reman for $255 with no core charge. I would be more inclined to find one without a core charge since I can imagine some drama with returning a different core. I had to really sweet talk the driveshaft shop into letting me return an automatic driveshaft for a manual driveshaft when I did my 5spd swap.
Did you order up some new soft lines? -
currently accepting offers for welding assistance)
Chadley is your man!
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Is this my/applesauce's former car?
Yessir
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Good to see the car getting what it deserves. Also, when those lights finally show up, I have some extra fun stuff for you. I guess I don't really need my M20 powder coated valve cover so....
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Good to see the car getting what it deserves. Also, when those lights finally show up, I have some extra fun stuff for you. I guess I don't really need my M20 powder coated valve cover so....
Funny you should mention the valve cover, since i just purchased a valve cover gasket in preparation for refinishing the one on the car. Also, brake parts arrived... Who wants to have a brake job party


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Funny you should mention the valve cover, since i just purchased a valve cover gasket in preparation for refinishing the one on the car. Also, brake parts arrived... Who wants to have a break job party

A BJ party??
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A BJ party??
Yes, a BJ party; BJ's for everyone.
So this is what a subframe looks like, 50 lbs of coal slag later. Note to self: just clean future subrames up enough to weld on reinforcement plates and be done with it. Now, what color do i powdercoat it... I kind of like the silver color it is now. A slate blue? Eau de nil? Zinc Phospate primer? Black is so 1989.

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Andrew just gave me the opportunity to drive this car.
It was so manly, that I grew a third ball.
Abouts like this?
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So today I was planning on securing the loose strut collar nut that Snap helped me discover, cept I'm not sure how im going to get the shock cartridge down into the strut body ( the picture below was taken with the corner in the air aka full droop). Any ideas? The picture shows, from top to bottom, the strut collar nut, the top of the Bilstein shock, and the top of the strut housing. The shock should be entirely inside the strut housing, and should be captured by the collar nut.

Also, I have sandblasted the wheels that were "time attacked" and reinstalled them on the car (pics eventually) I really like the raw blasted aluminum look, and will likely throw a clear coat on them.
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You are going to have to remove the strut from the car, remove the spring, then tap the strut insert down into place by striking the top of the gland nut. If the insert comes out nicely by hand, you may want to check to make sure the oil in the bottom of the strut housing has been removed. (Nitrogen filled struts do not require oil in the bottom of the housing). If you really dont want to remove the strut from the car then I may have some alternative ideas.
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I has m3 rack if you are interested
Sent from the future. Or my phone, who knows.
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http://s471.photobucket.com/user/inline39/media/The%20Dirty%20Dolphin/IMG_0570.mp4.html
Time for new front shocks... and control arms... and how much play should there be in the shock mount bearing?
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