Helmut the e21
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Wheels turned out great, what paint did you use? I wish the style 7’s came in 16” as well.
Duplicolor cheapo laquer from Oraily it comes in quart size cans.
I sprayed that with smaller touchup gun 1.0 tip. Just stirred it and shot it.
i was too cheap to buy a clear to go with it so i followed with rattlecan clear. I dont expect it to last.I will run em just for one season to see if i havent screwd something up with suspension. If the car survives first season i will get some 16s with some beefier tires.
Would run these on my car if they did.
I would love to have em in 16x7 and 16x8 or even 8/9”.
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I did some sway bar fitting tonight.
Where do i connect the links?Control arm as in e30 or strut tubes as in e36m3? Any pros or cones to either setup?
id go for strut tube. I’ve ran both setups. When I was setup to control arm, I would bend the adjustable endlinks, they would bind, the bar wasn’t in a great position either because the adjustable endlinks were so short.
Currently I’m mounted to strut tube, way more adjustment to get the bar in a better spot, links don’t bind, etc
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Thank you sir.
id go for strut tube.....,
I whipped front bar mount today. Temporarily mounted the bar and the control arm link is a no go. Its too short and at weird angle. I will link it to the strut tubes.
I also did one of the rear diff mounts and started to fit the rear bar. Looks like the rear will fit quite nicely.
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So i water tested it and found 3 pinholes. Welded em shut and no more leaks. I got the drain plug bung and 10AN for turbo drain ordered will weld em next. Also the oil pickup will need some slight chopping and welding to fit correctly.
Do you think I should baffle the pan since there is no sump for the oil pickup?
Don't mind the welds, looks like shit but will hold. For my excuse last time I welded aluminum was 2 or 3 years ago.
I ordered poly rear sway bar bushings and mounts and stock diff bushings. I should have the suspension ready for paint sometime next week.
I might even drop the motor in this month.
Depending how bad the exhaust situation is going to be I might skip the headers and whole NA nonsense and go for turbo manifold right away. Stock m42 should be able to put 200-250 without much problem.
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I would think baffles are a good idea
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I finished the front suspension. Sway bar links are done. I painted the front subframe, strut housings and spindles.
I’ll finish welding rear subframe adjusters today and paint the rear tomorrow.
Next will be the engine bay prep and paint. I will also need to paint rear wheel wells.
After that I can start fitting the engine.
I got a mixed feeling about the vert mount. It will give me much needed clearance on the passenger side but will put the shifter 2-3” to the left.
I can chop and rotate bellhousing but that will be not ideal in case i will ever have to replace the gearbox. -
New hubs and dust shields. I also have a set of reman calipers and brackets. 286mm brakes will do for now. I will look into some 4 pot wildwoods if the stockers will end up not sufficient.
Freshly painted rear subframe
I really like that SPI epoxy primer. Works great
And the part that I did not enjoy at all. Hate the prep work.
I need to wait for the radiator (e36 318i) to get the brackets fabbed and welded before I paint.
I will hit it with two coats of epoxy followed by couple coats of single stage urethane.
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I did another test fit of the m42 last weekend and the gearbox will not clear the tunnel at least not tilted 30 degrees.
So in order to vert mount the m42 i will have to cut and shut the transmission.
The plan is to use ordinary angle grinder mounted on a jig/stand that will move/slide on the flat table where the transmission will be bolted. I don't need a lot of precision at this point. I will need a gap between the two pieces to weld it properly anyway.
What is important is to have the transmission perfectly centered/ coaxial with the crankshaft and to do that i am going to use the throwout bearing guide tube that bolts to the gearbox
Below is the picture of the guide tube with a bit bigger tube slipped over it
the larger tube has perfect ID (1.5”) to fit snugly over the guide tube and 60.5mm OD to fit the main bearings. I will weld it together and use it to center the transmission.
Then a pass or two on the outside and another one or two from the inside should hold the bellhousing without much problem.
Stay tuned. I should have it bolted in the car soon.
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It felt wierd for a moment to chop perfectly good zf320 but oh well got to do what you got to do.
This is how much it will rotate.
A little angle grinder holder. It is also nice to have a flat table.
chop chop
And rotated.
Now i need to pull my m42 block from e21 bolt the transmission and weld the bellhousing.
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You are a crazy man, Wojtek! Looking good
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I finally found a driveshaft and test fitted transmission and motor. It came out that i made my oil pan 0.5" too long and will have to redo it.
A bit of CSB mount relocation will be required
I started some engine mounts. I also ripped the whole wiring harness and will redo it along with the new fusebox.
I cleaned up and painted rear inner fenders and applied some brush on seam sealer for some extra protection.
E36 steering column is a pretty good fit. I will gain a cruise control stalk which I will need for some dash display controls.
Initially I got garagistic e30/m20 mounts but they are bolt thru which I am not a big fan of. I ordered the revshift mounts.FCP shipped my radiator mounts and engine mounts and I should get em by Monday. I will finish the mounts next week and will modify the oil pan. Radiator and intercooler will be next.
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Is that just a universal fuse box?
It is LittleFuse EPC . https://www.littelfuse.com/products/dc-power-distribution-modules/configurable-pdm/epc.aspx
Two separate buses, 9 relays, 27 fuses should be more than enough. Uses ip67 TE connectors
I also thought about this busman/Eaton but it has relay on every circuit.
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3 months later............
I had to redo the whole subframe. There was not enough room for decent size sump. Engine is mounted to the frame rails anyway so the middle section of the subframe was cut and pushed towards the front of the car. Don't mind crappy welds, once I hit it with some pretty epoxy paint it wont look that bad anymore. It seems that I can tig aluminum better than I mig steel.
Here is the oil pan that I hat to cut a little bit to sit flush with the subframe.
I also put together lower radiator mounts. It uses stock e36 plastic mounts that sit on steel brackets welded to the frame rails. There is enough room in front of the radiator to fit 3" intercooler.
I also got a new daily driver. I got rid of my xc70 and got F32. That b58 and zf 8spd combo is amazing.
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