Anyone good at bodywork?
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I'm in wales but have a shop in Dousman. The shop is in waukesha somewhere... i forget the name of it. I resprayed the hood on my Z3 about 10 years ago with thier products. They sell good stuff.
As always its the prep time that takes forever. I have to take off the rear valence and the front left side skirt to do what I need to do. Never removed either so im gonna have to look into how this is done
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mystere30 said:
whaaa?? quillbro where are you/where is said shop/whats it called? i have a guy who will do body work and paint, just needs a place to do it. hes a certified body tech.
me?
If you go the diy route, get wax and grease remover and clean good. Also, since your doing plastic, take your time. Paint really likes metal more. I would recommend using a slightly courser sand paper vs what the paint product would specify for plastics. As for sandblasting, make sure you get all the blackness out of the pitting otherwise it will come back. Snap on sells a nice little blaster called the speedblaster and you can get the correct sand at menards for cheap. Its messy and the dust is dangerous to breath. Lastly, get some finishing glaze after using bondo. Usc makes good products. And use a big sanding block, ex. durablock, to get it all even. Pm me if you have any questions.
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I used to work over near vernon at Jamies customs. The owner of that place is bat-shit crazy.
E91 328xi - F15 X5 40e - Hopes and dreams of eventually having a cool car
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need4speed1299 said:
me?
If you go the diy route, get wax and grease remover and clean good. Also, since your doing plastic, take your time. Paint really likes metal more. I would recommend using a slightly courser sand paper vs what the paint product would specify for plastics. As for sandblasting, make sure you get all the blackness out of the pitting otherwise it will come back. Snap on sells a nice little blaster called the speedblaster and you can get the correct sand at menards for cheap. Its messy and the dust is dangerous to breath. Lastly, get some finishing glaze after using bondo. Usc makes good products. And use a big sanding block, ex. durablock, to get it all even. Pm me if you have any questions.
Yeah i dont think im doing any plastic areas... I have a spot on the passanger door, the whole underside of the driver door sill area. A spot on the door sill. A spot on the rear valence by the tow hook, and a spot on the windshield wiper window panel.
So a few spots... well kinda alot... haha the car is nice, not a rust bucket at all. But its got alot of money into it. S50, ZF trans, a bunch of other stuff... and I want to get the surface rust off before it rots.
But i have a repirator, and am going to do the blasting with a shop vac hooked up to try to reduce mess... not sure if it will work very well or not, we'll see. Thanks for the tips though. This is not a show car... so i dont car if the painwork is perfect. Its a good car to learn on i figure.
Maybe I'll post a thread once i commit to it.
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The vac is a good idea. Make sure you cover the windshield when blasting or the sand will pit it.
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need4speed1299 said:
The vac is a good idea. Make sure you cover the windshield when blasting or the sand will pit it.
Yeah i had planned on masking all area with painters plastic and tape just to keep the mess out. Something heavy mil most likely. I was planning on using this gun:
http://www.eastwood.com/speed-blast-gravity-feed-blaster.html
10cfm 100 psi, my compressor can do that. Saw this gun in use on a few DIY videos and it looked just about perfect for the job, pretty cheap too.
Do you suggest a specific rust preventive primer?
From the DIY's i have read, and some books I rented on the topic, it kinda went like this as far as steps:
Sandblast
Hand sand surrounding area to blend
Corrosion preventive primer
Filler
sand
primer
paint
clear
Sound about right? I'm winging this. haha
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quillbro said:
Yeah i had planned on masking all area with painters plastic and tape just to keep the mess out. Something heavy mil most likely. I was planning on using this gun:
http://www.eastwood.com/speed-blast-gravity-feed-blaster.html
10cfm 100 psi, my compressor can do that. Saw this gun in use on a few DIY videos and it looked just about perfect for the job, pretty cheap too.
Do you suggest a specific rust preventive primer?
From the DIY's i have read, and some books I rented on the topic, it kinda went like this as far as steps:
Sandblast
Hand sand surrounding area to blend
Corrosion preventive primer
Filler
sand
primer
paint
clear
Sound about right? I'm winging this. haha
I have used that blaster, its a knock off of the snap on style I believe. Its not as effective. This one is much better.
buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=636326&group_ID=675781&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
clean work area
Sand blast
fetheredge sand blasted area
Self etching primer
filler, short hair
sand to shape
glaze coat filler
sand lightly to perfection
high build "2k" urethane primer
smooth out minor imperfections
sealer
light scuff
paint
clear
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Sandblasting can heat the metal causing it to warp. Try to find a practice piece to get the pressure setting correct. Best to start 50-60 psi and work up if needed
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You can always change your blast media too. Walnut shells, soda, aluminum, ect.
E91 328xi - F15 X5 40e - Hopes and dreams of eventually having a cool car
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well clearly most here have much more knowledge than myself with this. That is fine, i understand i'm a total noob. haha. But that being said im still gonna give it a go. I dont think the car is worth getting done professionally as it is probably only worth about 8500 or so. And im sure it would be well over 1500 dollars in work.
I do REALLY appreciate the comments however.
Thanks. I'm going to try to tackle this in the next 3-4 weeks.
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Btw, link didnt work for me... are you talking about the snap on underslung blaster? I could see this being much more stable in hand....
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