http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=642433&group_ID=675781&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/images/PSB500AR.jpg

I do REALLY appreciate the comments however.

Thanks. I'm going to try to tackle this in the next 3-4 weeks.

quillbro said:

noted.... start around what 60 psi? Go up from there as needed?

or lower. Just play with it an just turn it up/ down as you go.

quillbro said:

Yeah i had planned on masking all area with painters plastic and tape just to keep the mess out. Something heavy mil most likely. I was planning on using this gun:

http://www.eastwood.com/speed-blast-gravity-feed-blaster.html

10cfm 100 psi, my compressor can do that. Saw this gun in use on a few DIY videos and it looked just about perfect for the job, pretty cheap too.

Do you suggest a specific rust preventive primer?

From the DIY's i have read, and some books I rented on the topic, it kinda went like this as far as steps:

Sandblast

Hand sand surrounding area to blend

Corrosion preventive primer

Filler

sand

primer

paint

clear

Sound about right? I'm winging this. haha

I have used that blaster, its a knock off of the snap on style I believe. Its not as effective. This one is much better.

buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=636326&group_ID=675781&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

clean work area

Sand blast

fetheredge sand blasted area

Self etching primer

filler, short hair

sand to shape

glaze coat filler

sand lightly to perfection

high build "2k" urethane primer

smooth out minor imperfections

sealer

light scuff

paint

clear

Visionshift said:

If you sand blast your body turn the pressure down, or you can dent/ mess up panels. Watched a kid do it at my shop. Needles to say he had to buy someone a new door

noted.... start around what 60 psi? Go up from there as needed?

need4speed1299 said:

The vac is a good idea. Make sure you cover the windshield when blasting or the sand will pit it.

Yeah i had planned on masking all area with painters plastic and tape just to keep the mess out. Something heavy mil most likely. I was planning on using this gun:

http://www.eastwood.com/speed-blast-gravity-feed-blaster.html

10cfm 100 psi, my compressor can do that. Saw this gun in use on a few DIY videos and it looked just about perfect for the job, pretty cheap too.

Do you suggest a specific rust preventive primer?

From the DIY's i have read, and some books I rented on the topic, it kinda went like this as far as steps:

Sandblast

Hand sand surrounding area to blend

Corrosion preventive primer

Filler

sand

primer

paint

clear

Sound about right? I'm winging this. haha

need4speed1299 said:

me?

If you go the diy route, get wax and grease remover and clean good. Also, since your doing plastic, take your time. Paint really likes metal more. I would recommend using a slightly courser sand paper vs what the paint product would specify for plastics. As for sandblasting, make sure you get all the blackness out of the pitting otherwise it will come back. Snap on sells a nice little blaster called the speedblaster and you can get the correct sand at menards for cheap. Its messy and the dust is dangerous to breath. Lastly, get some finishing glaze after using bondo. Usc makes good products. And use a big sanding block, ex. durablock, to get it all even. Pm me if you have any questions.

Yeah i dont think im doing any plastic areas... I have a spot on the passanger door, the whole underside of the driver door sill area. A spot on the door sill. A spot on the rear valence by the tow hook, and a spot on the windshield wiper window panel.

So a few spots... well kinda alot... haha the car is nice, not a rust bucket at all. But its got alot of money into it. S50, ZF trans, a bunch of other stuff... and I want to get the surface rust off before it rots.

But i have a repirator, and am going to do the blasting with a shop vac hooked up to try to reduce mess... not sure if it will work very well or not, we'll see. Thanks for the tips though. This is not a show car... so i dont car if the painwork is perfect. Its a good car to learn on i figure.

Maybe I'll post a thread once i commit to it.

mystere30 said:

whaaa?? quillbro where are you/where is said shop/whats it called? i have a guy who will do body work and paint, just needs a place to do it. hes a certified body tech.

me?

If you go the diy route, get wax and grease remover and clean good. Also, since your doing plastic, take your time. Paint really likes metal more. I would recommend using a slightly courser sand paper vs what the paint product would specify for plastics. As for sandblasting, make sure you get all the blackness out of the pitting otherwise it will come back. Snap on sells a nice little blaster called the speedblaster and you can get the correct sand at menards for cheap. Its messy and the dust is dangerous to breath. Lastly, get some finishing glaze after using bondo. Usc makes good products. And use a big sanding block, ex. durablock, to get it all even. Pm me if you have any questions.

As always its the prep time that takes forever. I have to take off the rear valence and the front left side skirt to do what I need to do. Never removed either so im gonna have to look into how this is done

keeperofchaos said:

Hello, I am looking for someone that is experienced at bodywork or knows of any good body shops in the oshkosh area. I have a dent and some scratches that need to be taken care of and also some rust. I will be posting pictures later.

Not sure... im looking for the same. But i think im gonna break down and DIY it. I have a compressor and a HVLP gun. I just need a portable sand blaster. There is a shop in my area that sells proffesional auto paint products. Im gonna hit them for primer/paint, sand paper and stuff.

I have 3 areas that need some attention before things get really bad.