‘91 E30
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Nearing completion
need to pop the axle stubs back off and torque the bolts, then it’s on to the pinion seal
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Old pinion seal was pretty torched.
pried it out and hammered the new one in
diff studs in, new dust cover for pinion seal, new speed sensor and oring gets here today. Hoping to get this back on the road tonight.
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Well car is all back together & everything is torqued. Highly recommend the diff studs. Even changed the trans fluid. Last thing on the list is to replace the plastic rad drain with an aluminum one/new oring. The threads are supposedly m14x1.5 in this radiator, but the new plug doesn’t want to thread in nicely and I’m sick of coolant. Might send a tap thru it quickly and spin the new plug in. All while getting coated in coolant.
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Well car is all back together & everything is torqued. Highly recommend the diff studs. Even changed the trans fluid. Last thing on the list is to replace the plastic rad drain with an aluminum one/new oring. The threads are supposedly m14x1.5 in this radiator, but the new plug doesn’t want to thread in nicely and I’m sick of coolant. Might send a tap thru it quickly and spin the new plug in. All while getting coated in coolant.
crazy idea for you enginerds - any way to easily pull a vaccum on the system at the reservoir to hold the coolant so you can remove the plug without spillage? just literally attach a wet vac and cross your fingers? maybe a piece of duct tape between with a certain size hole to reduce the vacuum if its too strong?
Dan
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Re-tapped radiator drain last night and put the new plug in
nose of car was already on jack stands so rebleeding was basically just fill up the reservoir and let it run for a bit.
When I was letting it bleed I was adding air to the tires for the commute to USAIR which is when I noticed this leak:Going to replace all the rubber lines as well as the fuel filter & going to add back in the rubber isolator that goes around the fuel filter
bummed on the timing as that means no USAIR for the e30, luckily my gf has cooler cars than me so I’ll just codrive
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Ended up co-driving the evo. Took first in STU and 3rd overall for raw time.
http://www.fvscc.com/results/2020_Summer/Event2_raw.htm -
Damn it's like watching a young Tommi Makinen toss that Evo around! Nice job.
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Parts have been ordered to fix the leak and replace the filter. Then I’ll be able to get the diff broken in and test the lockup
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Ended up co-driving the evo. Took first in STU and 3rd overall for raw time.
http://www.fvscc.com/results/2020_Summer/Event2_raw.htmAwesome job out there! It's nice to watch that video and see how you took the course.
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Slapped the new Fuel lines/clamps/fuel filter in and went for the first drive since the diff refresh. Took it easy and will continue to do so for 50ish miles, but happy to report no coolant leaks/diff Leaks/fuel leaks/odd diff noises.
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Took the car on a small 3hr road trip over the weekend as a quick shakedown. No leaks, diff is good, ps pump still whines like crazy.
ordered a new pump this morning, hoping that gets rid of the heavy feeling steering and pump whine.
during the road trip it was hot out and I got hot. decided I’m going to DIY a coolshirt. Parts are showing up later this week. Going to try and keep the install clean.
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Assuming that's south of EC? I crossed the river at Nelson/Wabasha earlier this week. I miss the western Wisconsin views and roads. Curious to see your cool shirt contraption.
Yep, along the Mississippi. Alma/Maiden rock/pepin
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Harness showed up today so I figured I’d get it tossed in before the rest of the coolshirt crap shows up.
ordered a harness from superbrightleds, they had a bunch of offerings for pre-built stuff with weatherpack connectors/relays for like $17.
connected it under the firewall cover, snagged power from the distro block, grounded to strut tower.
the switch they provide is a gross rocker style switch for a 248” brolightbar.
I ended up repurposing the AC button to turn the pump on. Figured it kind of made sense because “ac.” I couldn’t figure out illumination on the switch so I said screw it and just use it to trigger the relay. The switch stays in the down position anyways, so it’ll be obvious when the pump is running.
power to the trunk runs under the console/carpet/rear seat and comes out under the ski pass. Just long enough to make it to the coolers location.
waiting on a few things to show up, the tube insulators will probably be the last thing to make it here and they’re kind of holding up the show at this point.
goal is to make this as hidden as possible, going to try and hide the tubes under the seats -
Made a bracket
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Coolshirt progress
currently waiting on the marine adhesive to dry -
Lines routed, had to take a die grinder and open up the hole below the ski pass and remove a bit of rear seatback foam to ensure the lines don’t kink
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Ive been meaning to do this, can never be too careful. How easy is it to reach on the passenger side vs. having it on the driver's side?
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