‘91 E30
-
Both are rebuilt and ready to go in once the diff is finished. The drivers side was near death in terms of lack of grease/grease condition, so the timing of this couldn’t have been better.
-
Both are rebuilt and ready to go in once the diff is finished. The drivers side was near death in terms of lack of grease/grease condition, so the timing of this couldn’t have been better.
Should've waited till you were on the way back from the picnic to address this
-
Got around to pulling the diff out.
comes apart quickly. Thanks @B C for removing the grime from a previous life.
gutted, reassembly of the internals is exactly the opposite of disassembly, less replacing the spacer with a third friction disc & dog ear plate.
also replaced these clips that retain the axle stubs. They came with with new seals for the output flanges so why not.
^engage safety squints for those
slapped new o rings on the output flanges too for good measure. Need to find a drift/socket large enough and pop the shaft seals out and replace them as well.
slapped the carrier back together with the new discs that’s where I left off for tonight. Once I get the seals in, it is ready to get slapped back into the case. Then I can start on replacing the pinion seal. Punched/marked so I don’t screw up the preload
here are the worn out discs that gave up the ghost at 41ftlbs (breakaway tq)
-
Whats the 1-10 difficulty level on this job? Any good guides out there?
It’s easy. Just take your time and keep track of the order of the parts. Tons of good info on it as well.
these are the main ones I used. One link is a total rebuild that involves setting preload. With the replacement I did above I don’t need to mess with that.
part I was most nervous about was stripping the stock hardware on the carrier. I had an extra set of hands and they all came out without any issue. This hardware gets replaced with Thayers stuff anyways
http://buildraceparty.com/diy-tech-how-to-rebuild-a-bmw-e30-differential/
-
Nearing completion
need to pop the axle stubs back off and torque the bolts, then it’s on to the pinion seal
-
Old pinion seal was pretty torched.
pried it out and hammered the new one in
diff studs in, new dust cover for pinion seal, new speed sensor and oring gets here today. Hoping to get this back on the road tonight.
-
Well car is all back together & everything is torqued. Highly recommend the diff studs. Even changed the trans fluid. Last thing on the list is to replace the plastic rad drain with an aluminum one/new oring. The threads are supposedly m14x1.5 in this radiator, but the new plug doesn’t want to thread in nicely and I’m sick of coolant. Might send a tap thru it quickly and spin the new plug in. All while getting coated in coolant.
-
Well car is all back together & everything is torqued. Highly recommend the diff studs. Even changed the trans fluid. Last thing on the list is to replace the plastic rad drain with an aluminum one/new oring. The threads are supposedly m14x1.5 in this radiator, but the new plug doesn’t want to thread in nicely and I’m sick of coolant. Might send a tap thru it quickly and spin the new plug in. All while getting coated in coolant.
crazy idea for you enginerds - any way to easily pull a vaccum on the system at the reservoir to hold the coolant so you can remove the plug without spillage? just literally attach a wet vac and cross your fingers? maybe a piece of duct tape between with a certain size hole to reduce the vacuum if its too strong?
Dan
-
Re-tapped radiator drain last night and put the new plug in
nose of car was already on jack stands so rebleeding was basically just fill up the reservoir and let it run for a bit.
When I was letting it bleed I was adding air to the tires for the commute to USAIR which is when I noticed this leak:Going to replace all the rubber lines as well as the fuel filter & going to add back in the rubber isolator that goes around the fuel filter
bummed on the timing as that means no USAIR for the e30, luckily my gf has cooler cars than me so I’ll just codrive
-
Ended up co-driving the evo. Took first in STU and 3rd overall for raw time.
http://www.fvscc.com/results/2020_Summer/Event2_raw.htm -
Damn it's like watching a young Tommi Makinen toss that Evo around! Nice job.
-
Parts have been ordered to fix the leak and replace the filter. Then I’ll be able to get the diff broken in and test the lockup
-
Ended up co-driving the evo. Took first in STU and 3rd overall for raw time.
http://www.fvscc.com/results/2020_Summer/Event2_raw.htmAwesome job out there! It's nice to watch that video and see how you took the course.
-
Slapped the new Fuel lines/clamps/fuel filter in and went for the first drive since the diff refresh. Took it easy and will continue to do so for 50ish miles, but happy to report no coolant leaks/diff Leaks/fuel leaks/odd diff noises.
-
Took the car on a small 3hr road trip over the weekend as a quick shakedown. No leaks, diff is good, ps pump still whines like crazy.
ordered a new pump this morning, hoping that gets rid of the heavy feeling steering and pump whine.
during the road trip it was hot out and I got hot. decided I’m going to DIY a coolshirt. Parts are showing up later this week. Going to try and keep the install clean.
-
Assuming that's south of EC? I crossed the river at Nelson/Wabasha earlier this week. I miss the western Wisconsin views and roads. Curious to see your cool shirt contraption.
Yep, along the Mississippi. Alma/Maiden rock/pepin
-
Harness showed up today so I figured I’d get it tossed in before the rest of the coolshirt crap shows up.
ordered a harness from superbrightleds, they had a bunch of offerings for pre-built stuff with weatherpack connectors/relays for like $17.
connected it under the firewall cover, snagged power from the distro block, grounded to strut tower.
the switch they provide is a gross rocker style switch for a 248” brolightbar.
I ended up repurposing the AC button to turn the pump on. Figured it kind of made sense because “ac.” I couldn’t figure out illumination on the switch so I said screw it and just use it to trigger the relay. The switch stays in the down position anyways, so it’ll be obvious when the pump is running.
power to the trunk runs under the console/carpet/rear seat and comes out under the ski pass. Just long enough to make it to the coolers location.
waiting on a few things to show up, the tube insulators will probably be the last thing to make it here and they’re kind of holding up the show at this point.
goal is to make this as hidden as possible, going to try and hide the tubes under the seats
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login