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  4. Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • jc43089J
    jc43089J
    jc43089
    wrote on last edited by
    #59

    You don't have to get the shift knob off to remove the shift lever, it comes out the top.  The white cup around the base needs to rotate and then will pull up, assuming you already removed the selector rod underneath.

    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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    • G
      G
      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #60

      Yeah, I suppose I could have done that too. I just used a hammer and beat the selector out of the knob. I'm not keeping either, so I didn't really care. 

      Also decided to switch focus to the drivetrain so I can get the engine back in the car. New clutch, rebuilding selector rod stuff and shaft seals for the transmission.

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      • EarlE
        EarlE
        Earl
        wrote on last edited by
        #61

        If you don't have a new shifter I have a Ruff Short Shift lever a available if you're interested

        museum sig 2earl.jpg

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        • G
          G
          gilber33
          wrote on last edited by
          #62

          Earl said:

          If you don't have a new shifter I have a Ruff Short Shift lever a available if you're interested

          I haven't ordered any of that stuff yet. I was going to get the Z3 shifter/ZHP knob kit from ECS.

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          • G
            G
            gilber33
            wrote on last edited by
            #63

            So, I know this is where the two sensors run across the front of the engine and there's a plastic cover for them. I assume this is where they go, but I dont remember how that cover or wires are secured to the front timing belt cover, but I assume it has something to do with these two holes. Any direction?

            20180716161007.jpg

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            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #64

              8031DE04-6311-442F-9AFC-83FA4BF86AF8.jpeg.8cc28253a4dfbac7161515e5b2d5f3bb.jpegC37C33D4-308A-41C7-B676-D48E9942658D.jpeg.ce003bb109ead89ac5c7170f962c22e6.jpeg

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              • G
                G
                gilber33
                wrote on last edited by
                #65

                That is EXACTLY what I needed. Thank you!!!

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                • G
                  G
                  gilber33
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #66

                  Another one:

                  Where does the circled gasket go? I see it included in timing kits, but I do not remember removing a gasket like this while removing the timing belt components.

                  Capture.JPG

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                  • B
                    B
                    B C
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #67

                    That one is either going to be the front main seal or rear main seal housing gasket.

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                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #68

                      Looks like rear main, the one lower in the picture is the front main housing cover which also has the intermediate shaft seal.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      2
                      • G
                        G
                        gilber33
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #69

                        jc43089 said:

                        Looks like rear main, the one lower in the picture is the front main housing cover which also has the intermediate shaft seal. 

                        OK. That's what I thought because it looks like the right shape. But it was really confusing that it is including in timing belt cover kits. Wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything.

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                        • G
                          G
                          gilber33
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #70

                          More input wanted. I used a victor reinz head gasket and now I'm reading quite a bit of info about them being pretty bad quality. Also a lot of people who said they're fine. Anyone able to weigh in on this?

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                          • B
                            B
                            B C
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #71

                            They’re fine. i ran one with boost. OEM is best but VR is just fine. At worst you may have a tiny external oil leak on the exhaust side but many M20s do that and its a lucky break if yoir M20 doesnt

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                            • G
                              G
                              gilber33
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #72

                              Hmm. If I'm going to put a different one in, now is the time to do it. I read Goetze is the OEM replacement. For $50, it might be worth it.

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                              • B
                                B
                                B C
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #73

                                They are different. The BMW gasket is something quite different than VR, Goetze, and Elring Klinger in my observations. i had heard similar but comparing them side by side they were different

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                                • G
                                  G
                                  gilber33
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #74

                                  Ended up pulling the head back off last night. I'm glad I did. I didn't clean it as well as I thought I did and found some old hg remnants. Took more time cleaning it up. Going to get the Goetze head gasket and will feel better about it. 

                                  20180717215937.jpg

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                                  • G
                                    G
                                    gilber33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #75

                                    More.  

                                    Going to be doing the input and output shaft seal on the transmission. I read its advised to use thread sealant on the splines, threads, and backside of the flange of the nut. OEM stuff is the curil k2, does anyone know of a good product that can be had locally?

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                                    • B
                                      B
                                      B C
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #76

                                      Ive attempted to use all the right sealants and ended up at the following personal mantra:

                                      Black RTV on all gaskets and seals that touch oil, gray rtv on thermostat housings and warer pump gaskets, ans copper rtv on exhaust manifold gaskets.

                                      black rtv is what I used on my transmission stuff

                                      and please feel free to not take my advice/opinions.

                                      i am generally a dummy

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                                      • G
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                                        gilber33
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #77

                                        snap said:

                                        Ive attempted to use all the right sealants and ended up at the following personal mantra:

                                        Black RTV on all gaskets and seals that touch oil, gray rtv on thermostat housings and warer pump gaskets, ans copper rtv on exhaust manifold gaskets.

                                        black rtv is what I used on my transmission stuff

                                        and please feel free to not take my advice/opinions.

                                        i am generally a dumb shit

                                        So you're putting gray rtv on each side of the paper gaskets? 

                                        And you've used black rtv on the parts associated with the rear output shaft seal with success?

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                                        0
                                        • B
                                          B
                                          B C
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #78

                                          yes. I run a “toothpick” bead or less on surfaces that have a paper gasket. I had to re-do a water pump replacement once because I tried to take the advice of “if both surfaces are clean then all you need is the paper gasket.

                                          rubbish. 

                                          On the rear main seal gaskets Ive replaced  I used black rtv.

                                          If you are referring to the transmission rear output shaft seal then thats just a typical shaft seal, no rtv of course. The input shaft has the bolted flange that needs it though. The instruction to use some rtv/sealant on the splines is important. I will try to find an image or cutaway that shows why.

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