Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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Looks like rear main, the one lower in the picture is the front main housing cover which also has the intermediate shaft seal.
OK. That's what I thought because it looks like the right shape. But it was really confusing that it is including in timing belt cover kits. Wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything.
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More.
Going to be doing the input and output shaft seal on the transmission. I read its advised to use thread sealant on the splines, threads, and backside of the flange of the nut. OEM stuff is the curil k2, does anyone know of a good product that can be had locally?
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Ive attempted to use all the right sealants and ended up at the following personal mantra:
Black RTV on all gaskets and seals that touch oil, gray rtv on thermostat housings and warer pump gaskets, ans copper rtv on exhaust manifold gaskets.
black rtv is what I used on my transmission stuff
and please feel free to not take my advice/opinions.
i am generally a dummy
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Ive attempted to use all the right sealants and ended up at the following personal mantra:
Black RTV on all gaskets and seals that touch oil, gray rtv on thermostat housings and warer pump gaskets, ans copper rtv on exhaust manifold gaskets.
black rtv is what I used on my transmission stuff
and please feel free to not take my advice/opinions.
i am generally a dumb shit
So you're putting gray rtv on each side of the paper gaskets?
And you've used black rtv on the parts associated with the rear output shaft seal with success?
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yes. I run a “toothpick” bead or less on surfaces that have a paper gasket. I had to re-do a water pump replacement once because I tried to take the advice of “if both surfaces are clean then all you need is the paper gasket.
rubbish.
On the rear main seal gaskets Ive replaced I used black rtv.
If you are referring to the transmission rear output shaft seal then thats just a typical shaft seal, no rtv of course. The input shaft has the bolted flange that needs it though. The instruction to use some rtv/sealant on the splines is important. I will try to find an image or cutaway that shows why.
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yes. I run a “toothpick” bead or less on surfaces that have a paper gasket. I had to re-do a water pump replacement once because I tried to take the advice of “if both surfaces are clean then all you need is the paper gasket.
rubbish.
On the rear main seal gaskets Ive replaced I used black rtv.
If you are referring to the transmission rear output shaft seal then thats just a typical shaft seal, no rtv of course. The input shaft has the bolted flange that needs it though. The instruction to use some rtv/sealant on the splines is important. I will try to find an image or cutaway that shows why.
More and more people I've talked to have said they use some sealant on water gaskets, too. I'll be doing that as well, then.
And I noticed the input shaft had some sealant on the flange, so I'll get something for that. And then yes, the splines on the output shaft an the threads.
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This is what I was thinking of:
RTV is always going to make things a real PITA to remove and clean up again but then you ask yourself how soon will you actually be revisiting that area, 1 year, 5 years, never? so for me its worth the added cleanup/hassle if having to dive back into it.
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This is what I was thinking of:
RTV is always going to make things a real PITA to remove and clean up again but then you ask yourself how soon will you actually be revisiting that area, 1 year, 5 years, never? so for me its worth the added cleanup/hassle if having to dive back into it.
Those are all good points. I ordered the curil k2 stuff. I'm not in a big rush, and I can't afford to have to mess with that again. See what I do going forward with the other gaskets
I started taking some of the stuff apart last night on the trans to replace the seals and I noticed the TOB guide tube has some markings on it. I see ECS sell a replacement for $200 and can't seem to find them anywhere else, nor do any of the write ups mention it, making me think that not many people replace it. Thoughts? Or should I put some grease on it and call it a day?
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VR belongs in the dumpster. Good move
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Those are all good points. I ordered the curil k2 stuff. I'm not in a big rush, and I can't afford to have to mess with that again. See what I do going forward with the other gaskets
I started taking some of the stuff apart last night on the trans to replace the seals and I noticed the TOB guide tube has some markings on it. I see ECS sell a replacement for $200 and can't seem to find them anywhere else, nor do any of the write ups mention it, making me think that not many people replace it. Thoughts? Or should I put some grease on it and call it a day?
Have you been using a guide for putting things with gasket sealer and the like back on the motor? I’m about to be in this process soon and am not very well versed on these things. I don’t know what requires just the normal gaskets and what requires additional sealing? Having not read your past couple of posts, probably would have not know that there were additional sealers/materials that would need to be added to the input shaft, splines, etc.
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Have you been using a guide for putting things with gasket sealer and the like back on the motor? I’m about to be in this process soon and am not very well versed on these things. I don’t know what requires just the normal gaskets and what requires additional sealing? Having not read your past couple of posts, probably would have not know that there were additional sealers/materials that would need to be added to the input shaft, splines, etc.
Basically just lots of googling and asking. I got Curil K2 for all the transmission sealing and the Hylomar Blue for water and intake gaskets (at the recommendation of a friend). This thread was helpful with the transmission:
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Clutch is on, transmission is all sealed up. Need to put the transmission back on and after a couple small things it can go back in the car. I wanted to throw this out to anyone in the Milwaukee area. I wanted to put in a new starter right away since nows the time to do it. Found a place called MJ Electric that solely rebuilds starters and alternators. Disassembled, cleaned, painted, and fully rebuilt the starter for $95. $45 if you dont want it cleaned up.
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