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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • jc43089J
    jc43089J
    jc43089
    wrote on last edited by
    #628

    Yes the same one is used on an e36.  You may have the same crumbly results.

    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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    • G
      G
      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #629

      jc43089 said:

      Yes the same one is used on an e36.  You may have the same crumbly results.

      And they're easier to find for an e36 apparently

      image.png

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      • RekpointR
        RekpointR
        Rekpoint
        wrote on last edited by
        #630

        If you need one I MIGHT have one.

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        • B
          B
          Boris3
          wrote on last edited by
          #631

          P_Roloff said:

          I bought the centric rebuilt from turner motor sports when I snapped a bleeder on one of my stock calipers, no complaints. Everything worked well. Not sure why there’s such a significant price difference between them and FCP. 

          Did exactly the same ...for the same reason. Snug that bleeder a little more...doh

          1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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          • P_RoloffP
            P_RoloffP
            P_Roloff
            wrote on last edited by
            #632

            Boris3 said:

            Did exactly the same ...for the same reason. Snug that bleeder a little more...doh

            Mine actually broke while loosening, or rather failing to. I was actually amazed I got any of them open, it looked and felt like it had been a decade since they were last bled.

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            • G
              G
              gilber33
              wrote on last edited by
              #633

              Rekpoint said:

              If you need one I MIGHT have one.

              I definitely need one. The one on the car is trash and the spare I picked up isn’t in great shape either. If I don’t find a used one I’ll get the plug and connectors and make it fit.

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              • RekpointR
                RekpointR
                Rekpoint
                wrote on last edited by
                #634

                gilber33 said:

                I definitely need one. The one on the car is trash and the spare I picked up isn’t in great shape either. If I don’t find a used one I’ll get the plug and connectors and make it fit. 

                Send me a picture of what it looks like (You have my #) and I can take a look in my pigtail bin!

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                • G
                  G
                  gilber33
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #635

                  Got a lot of the ac stuff mocked up. Need o rings.

                  4E924342-8900-4549-955B-C88561EB2FAC.jpeg

                  D331B985-E02E-4C72-9AA5-10BB0EE91CFD.jpeg

                  Carpets are out and have one rust hole in the driver side  corner and one on the passenger floor. Looks like there was a plug there that allowed some rust to happen or something.

                  5BBA0502-FA9C-42D7-BC7D-9DAA0DCA5A99.jpeg

                  EBFDAE19-7995-4490-BB63-60B897471DDF.jpeg

                  88AA51C7-F895-4660-B1FA-5DDE5B6461BA.jpeg

                  It also looks like someone tried jacking the car up by the floor pan since it was all pushed in. A couple minutes later with a big hammer and that’s all straightened out.

                  542923C3-E9EA-454B-ACA0-4C0FB4C27465.jpeg

                  Now to figure out how to address that hole in the corner.

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                  • G
                    G
                    gilber33
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #636

                    Before 
                     

                    00901E30-6EE6-4CA0-94D8-C1DF1AF4AEF6.jpeg

                    After

                    E4B15D2C-5AC7-4C61-86E1-D2BABD0C67C5.jpeg

                    B06F3289-10F9-43B2-B69D-6C310C4F0209.jpeg

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                    • G
                      G
                      gilber33
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #637

                      Anyone have recommendations for best place to get AC o-rings? FCP doesn't carry all of them. AutohausAZ and Pelican Parts do (as well as a couple other things I was going to get) but I have not shopped through either of those stores before.

                      Amazon sells some o-ring kits, but BMW says I need a 7.65 mm o-ring and the kit has a 7.8 mm o-ring, I need a 11.1 mm o-ring and the kit has an 11 mm o-ring, or I need a 17.12 mm o ring and the kit has a 17 mm o ring. I don't know if that's a big deal or if the o-ring would still work.

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                      • B
                        B
                        Boris3
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #638

                        If you have a realoem part number search the FCP site by number rather than by car. Sometimes stuff isn't cross listed. You can also call. 

                        I've used Pelican in the past without issue. Typically would take longer to ship given west coast location.  They were bought by ECS in 2017.

                        I've also used Autohaus AZ in the past for a few things but have not dealt with them for a long while.

                        1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                        • m42b32M
                          m42b32M
                          m42b32
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #639

                          I've used both and the transactions were decent. Haven't dealt with Pelican since they were bought by ECS though (not because of that, just haven't as FCP has been my go to lately). If either sells a kit with the exactly correct O-ring sizes, I'd much prefer to use those in my opinion.

                          1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                          • G
                            G
                            gilber33
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #640

                            I use FCP whenever possible. They just don't have all of the o-rings. RM European actually has the o-rings and the parts I'm looking for a little cheaper than FCP this time. With that said, I would spend a few more dollars to still use FCP if they had the o-rings.

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                            • G
                              G
                              gilber33
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #641

                              I got all the holes patched and sealed with seam sealer. Next I’ll paint the floors with Por15 to protect everything and do the same on the patches on the outside.

                              Then need to replace the heater core, put down new sound deadening, dye the carpets and the interior can go back together. 

                              438C9076-FBBB-42F8-9EE1-CAA7ED0E3303.jpeg

                              C462A2B2-5B96-47C6-9774-9112646BCC15.jpeg

                              A3B3E4DD-AC3E-4519-9765-2B29D48D1A74.jpeg

                              A35E7976-4D21-4782-9B0D-FC76A2D730CA.jpeg

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                              • G
                                G
                                gilber33
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #642

                                Can anyone chime in if this looks correct? Installing the revshift TAB are a pain in the ass. I got one side in but it seems like there’s a gap where there shouldn’t be. The metal sleeve feels like it’s a 1/16” too long which means when the bushings are fully pressed in the sleeves protrudes past the bushing on each side a bit. So when they’re mounted to the subframe, I had to pound the trailing arms into the mounts, then because the sleeve is longer than the bushing, it creates a small gap between the trailing arm and the inside edge of the bushing  

                                240154B5-9E48-45FD-9766-FC26F4F2FBBB.jpeg

                                1377B93D-1BD6-4096-97FF-AB3B1AA004C7.jpeg
                                 

                                here’s the other side where you can see it a little better. 

                                794DCE67-4BE1-4761-BC03-DFFFD8299FE5.jpeg
                                 

                                661974AD-36DF-46B4-84B2-09779E46F367.jpeg

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                                • JdesignJ
                                  JdesignJ
                                  Jdesign
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #643

                                  I don't believe you want a gap in the bushings. A quick internet search I found a lot of images of them tight against the arm with a little gap between the subframe and arm. I would need to look back through my thread to see how mine looked, but I can reassure you the bushings should be tight to the arms.

                                  Image result for E30 rear trailing arm bushingsImage result for E30 rear trailing arm bushings

                                  SumBunny.jpg

                                  https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                                  🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                                  👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                                  ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                                  🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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                                  • G
                                    G
                                    gilber33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #644

                                    Jdesign said:

                                    I don't believe you want a gap in the bushings. A quick internet search I found a lot of images of them tight against the arm with a little gap between the subframe and arm. I would need to look back through my thread to see how mine looked, but I can reassure you the bushings should be tight to the arms.

                                    Image result for E30 rear trailing arm bushingsImage result for E30 rear trailing arm bushings

                                    Everything I have found suggests the same thing. I would believe that the sleeve should be the same length as the bushing when it's pressed in so you hare tightening the arm into the subframe and remove all gaps. But the sleeve being longer than the bushings when they're pressed in is giving me this gap. I know the rubber bushings have a small gap between the arm and the subframe, but they're fixed to trailing arm, they can't slide side to side, where these can. 

                                    Fucking revshift.

                                    Now - do I trim the sleeves or call revshift and deal with that bullshit again. 

                                    image.png

                                    image.png

                                    image.png

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                                    • JdesignJ
                                      JdesignJ
                                      Jdesign
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #645

                                      Return them and buy something else. Thats super annoying. I would have wanted a refund before they even arrived.

                                      SumBunny.jpg

                                      https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                                      🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                                      👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                                      ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                                      🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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                                      • G
                                        G
                                        gilber33
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #646

                                        Jdesign said:

                                        Return them and buy something else. Thats super annoying. I would have wanted a refund before they even arrived.

                                        I'm so excited to talk to them again. 

                                        Looking at Garagistic's, they're sleeve is flush with the bushings: 

                                        image.png

                                        I am incredibly annoyed. My wife is due on the 29th with our third kid and this is one thing I wanted done before the baby came because it's a relatively time consuming and dirty job. I need to order something today so they're here by this weekend hopefully.

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                                        • B
                                          B
                                          Boris3
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #647

                                          see last post here. Revshift replies on same issue

                                          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/brakes-subframe-arms/253855-revshift-rtab-issues

                                          1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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