Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

[gilber33]

straight6pwr said:

i suppose 2 y.o. kids and fetuses don't really fit into the category of 'kids that will remember' LOL

that 3-pol connector is the straight plug style.

the 90deg one would has a very distinct flat cap on the back, and I think its NLA at this point

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-10467-61131378412-genuine-bmw-part/

Correct. I have found that the 90* one has been discontinued. I found this post that labels the new straight connector but it seems to suggest the 90* plug fits? It's difficult to understand which connector works with which plug style. 

I am not confident there is enough room between the aux temp switch and the headlight cover to fit the straight plug with straight wires. It would be very tight.

[straight6pwr]

you could certainly shove the 90 deg connectors into the straight housing, but you may need to modify it, and there would be no back cap that holds the plugs in. maybe you could just epoxy them in? you could also skip the plug housing completely and plug the connectors right into the sensor, you'd just have to remember/label the locations.

i believe the 90deg plug might also be found on e36s, although realoem barely shows the existence of the part number. someone here parting an e36 maybe has one?

[gilber33]

straight6pwr said:

you could certainly shove the 90 deg connectors into the straight housing, but you may need to modify it, and there would be no back cap that holds the plugs in. maybe you could just epoxy them in? you could also skip the plug housing completely and plug the connectors right into the sensor, you'd just have to remember/label the locations.

i believe the 90deg plug might also be found on e36s, although realoem barely shows the existence of the part number. someone here parting an e36 maybe has one?

That's definitely something to look into.

I bought the connector and pigtail from someone and when I got it, the wires were bad and the connector fell apart when i accidentally sneezed on it.

[jc43089]

Yes the same one is used on an e36.  You may have the same crumbly results.

[gilber33]

jc43089 said:

Yes the same one is used on an e36.  You may have the same crumbly results.

And they're easier to find for an e36 apparently

[Rekpoint]

If you need one I MIGHT have one.

[Boris3]

P_Roloff said:

I bought the centric rebuilt from turner motor sports when I snapped a bleeder on one of my stock calipers, no complaints. Everything worked well. Not sure why there’s such a significant price difference between them and FCP. 

Did exactly the same ...for the same reason. Snug that bleeder a little more...doh

[P_Roloff]

Boris3 said:

Did exactly the same ...for the same reason. Snug that bleeder a little more...doh

Mine actually broke while loosening, or rather failing to. I was actually amazed I got any of them open, it looked and felt like it had been a decade since they were last bled.

[gilber33]

Rekpoint said:

If you need one I MIGHT have one.

I definitely need one. The one on the car is trash and the spare I picked up isn’t in great shape either. If I don’t find a used one I’ll get the plug and connectors and make it fit.

[Rekpoint]

gilber33 said:

I definitely need one. The one on the car is trash and the spare I picked up isn’t in great shape either. If I don’t find a used one I’ll get the plug and connectors and make it fit. 

Send me a picture of what it looks like (You have my #) and I can take a look in my pigtail bin!

[gilber33]

Got a lot of the ac stuff mocked up. Need o rings.

Carpets are out and have one rust hole in the driver side  corner and one on the passenger floor. Looks like there was a plug there that allowed some rust to happen or something.

It also looks like someone tried jacking the car up by the floor pan since it was all pushed in. A couple minutes later with a big hammer and that’s all straightened out.

Now to figure out how to address that hole in the corner.

[gilber33]

Before 
 

After

[gilber33]

Anyone have recommendations for best place to get AC o-rings? FCP doesn't carry all of them. AutohausAZ and Pelican Parts do (as well as a couple other things I was going to get) but I have not shopped through either of those stores before.

Amazon sells some o-ring kits, but BMW says I need a 7.65 mm o-ring and the kit has a 7.8 mm o-ring, I need a 11.1 mm o-ring and the kit has an 11 mm o-ring, or I need a 17.12 mm o ring and the kit has a 17 mm o ring. I don't know if that's a big deal or if the o-ring would still work.

[Boris3]

If you have a realoem part number search the FCP site by number rather than by car. Sometimes stuff isn't cross listed. You can also call. 

I've used Pelican in the past without issue. Typically would take longer to ship given west coast location.  They were bought by ECS in 2017.

I've also used Autohaus AZ in the past for a few things but have not dealt with them for a long while.

[m42b32]

I've used both and the transactions were decent. Haven't dealt with Pelican since they were bought by ECS though (not because of that, just haven't as FCP has been my go to lately). If either sells a kit with the exactly correct O-ring sizes, I'd much prefer to use those in my opinion.

[gilber33]

I use FCP whenever possible. They just don't have all of the o-rings. RM European actually has the o-rings and the parts I'm looking for a little cheaper than FCP this time. With that said, I would spend a few more dollars to still use FCP if they had the o-rings.

[gilber33]

I got all the holes patched and sealed with seam sealer. Next I’ll paint the floors with Por15 to protect everything and do the same on the patches on the outside.

Then need to replace the heater core, put down new sound deadening, dye the carpets and the interior can go back together. 

[gilber33]

Can anyone chime in if this looks correct? Installing the revshift TAB are a pain in the ass. I got one side in but it seems like there’s a gap where there shouldn’t be. The metal sleeve feels like it’s a 1/16” too long which means when the bushings are fully pressed in the sleeves protrudes past the bushing on each side a bit. So when they’re mounted to the subframe, I had to pound the trailing arms into the mounts, then because the sleeve is longer than the bushing, it creates a small gap between the trailing arm and the inside edge of the bushing  

 

here’s the other side where you can see it a little better. 

 

[Jdesign]

I don't believe you want a gap in the bushings. A quick internet search I found a lot of images of them tight against the arm with a little gap between the subframe and arm. I would need to look back through my thread to see how mine looked, but I can reassure you the bushings should be tight to the arms.

[gilber33]

Jdesign said:

I don't believe you want a gap in the bushings. A quick internet search I found a lot of images of them tight against the arm with a little gap between the subframe and arm. I would need to look back through my thread to see how mine looked, but I can reassure you the bushings should be tight to the arms.

Everything I have found suggests the same thing. I would believe that the sleeve should be the same length as the bushing when it's pressed in so you hare tightening the arm into the subframe and remove all gaps. But the sleeve being longer than the bushings when they're pressed in is giving me this gap. I know the rubber bushings have a small gap between the arm and the subframe, but they're fixed to trailing arm, they can't slide side to side, where these can. 

Fucking revshift.

Now - do I trim the sleeves or call revshift and deal with that bullshit again.