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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • G
    G
    gilber33
    wrote on last edited by
    #623

    straight6pwr said:

    yes, but, that one time you break down will be the adventure your kids remember the most.

    i still remember when the alternator died on my parents Astro in the midst of a road trip and the extra pool time we got because of it. i'm pretty sure my dad was not having fun, but we were obviously oblivious to that LOL

    The last time one of my cars broke down it was the alternator that went out while we were 4 hours north at my sisters in winter when it was 5 degrees outside and our oldest daughter was 2-ish and my wife was like 6 months pregnant. I'm still not over it. It was not a fun and memorable breakdown. lol

    Anyways - can anyone confirm if these wires work with this connector? I need to replace the harness for the aux fan switch and I need this plug: 

    image.png

    But I can't confirm if the 90 degree receptacle fits with that plug or if only the straight one does. The original plug for the temp switch has been discontinued. 

    image.png

    image.png

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    • straight6pwrS
      straight6pwrS
      straight6pwr
      wrote on last edited by
      #624

      gilber33 said:

      The last time one of my cars broke down it was the alternator that went out while we were 4 hours north at my sisters in winter when it was 5 degrees outside and our oldest daughter was 2-ish and my wife was like 6 months pregnant. I'm still not over it. It was not a fun and memorable breakdown. lol

      Anyways - can anyone confirm if these wires work with this connector? I need to replace the harness for the aux fan switch and I need this plug:

      i suppose 2 y.o. kids and fetuses don't really fit into the category of 'kids that will remember' LOL

      that 3-pol connector is the straight plug style.

      the 90deg one would has a very distinct flat cap on the back, and I think its NLA at this point

      https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-10467-61131378412-genuine-bmw-part/

      1378412.JPG

      Dan
      yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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      • G
        G
        gilber33
        wrote on last edited by
        #625

        straight6pwr said:

        i suppose 2 y.o. kids and fetuses don't really fit into the category of 'kids that will remember' LOL

        that 3-pol connector is the straight plug style.

        the 90deg one would has a very distinct flat cap on the back, and I think its NLA at this point

        https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-10467-61131378412-genuine-bmw-part/

        Correct. I have found that the 90* one has been discontinued. I found this post that labels the new straight connector but it seems to suggest the 90* plug fits? It's difficult to understand which connector works with which plug style. 

        image.png

        I am not confident there is enough room between the aux temp switch and the headlight cover to fit the straight plug with straight wires. It would be very tight.

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        • straight6pwrS
          straight6pwrS
          straight6pwr
          wrote on last edited by
          #626

          you could certainly shove the 90 deg connectors into the straight housing, but you may need to modify it, and there would be no back cap that holds the plugs in. maybe you could just epoxy them in? you could also skip the plug housing completely and plug the connectors right into the sensor, you'd just have to remember/label the locations.

          i believe the 90deg plug might also be found on e36s, although realoem barely shows the existence of the part number. someone here parting an e36 maybe has one?

          Dan
          yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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          • G
            G
            gilber33
            wrote on last edited by
            #627

            straight6pwr said:

            you could certainly shove the 90 deg connectors into the straight housing, but you may need to modify it, and there would be no back cap that holds the plugs in. maybe you could just epoxy them in? you could also skip the plug housing completely and plug the connectors right into the sensor, you'd just have to remember/label the locations.

            i believe the 90deg plug might also be found on e36s, although realoem barely shows the existence of the part number. someone here parting an e36 maybe has one?

            That's definitely something to look into.

            I bought the connector and pigtail from someone and when I got it, the wires were bad and the connector fell apart when i accidentally sneezed on it.

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            • jc43089J
              jc43089J
              jc43089
              wrote on last edited by
              #628

              Yes the same one is used on an e36.  You may have the same crumbly results.

              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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              • G
                G
                gilber33
                wrote on last edited by
                #629

                jc43089 said:

                Yes the same one is used on an e36.  You may have the same crumbly results.

                And they're easier to find for an e36 apparently

                image.png

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                • RekpointR
                  RekpointR
                  Rekpoint
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #630

                  If you need one I MIGHT have one.

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                  • B
                    B
                    Boris3
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #631

                    P_Roloff said:

                    I bought the centric rebuilt from turner motor sports when I snapped a bleeder on one of my stock calipers, no complaints. Everything worked well. Not sure why there’s such a significant price difference between them and FCP. 

                    Did exactly the same ...for the same reason. Snug that bleeder a little more...doh

                    1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                    1
                    • P_RoloffP
                      P_RoloffP
                      P_Roloff
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #632

                      Boris3 said:

                      Did exactly the same ...for the same reason. Snug that bleeder a little more...doh

                      Mine actually broke while loosening, or rather failing to. I was actually amazed I got any of them open, it looked and felt like it had been a decade since they were last bled.

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                      • G
                        G
                        gilber33
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #633

                        Rekpoint said:

                        If you need one I MIGHT have one.

                        I definitely need one. The one on the car is trash and the spare I picked up isn’t in great shape either. If I don’t find a used one I’ll get the plug and connectors and make it fit.

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                        • RekpointR
                          RekpointR
                          Rekpoint
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #634

                          gilber33 said:

                          I definitely need one. The one on the car is trash and the spare I picked up isn’t in great shape either. If I don’t find a used one I’ll get the plug and connectors and make it fit. 

                          Send me a picture of what it looks like (You have my #) and I can take a look in my pigtail bin!

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                          • G
                            G
                            gilber33
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #635

                            Got a lot of the ac stuff mocked up. Need o rings.

                            4E924342-8900-4549-955B-C88561EB2FAC.jpeg

                            D331B985-E02E-4C72-9AA5-10BB0EE91CFD.jpeg

                            Carpets are out and have one rust hole in the driver side  corner and one on the passenger floor. Looks like there was a plug there that allowed some rust to happen or something.

                            5BBA0502-FA9C-42D7-BC7D-9DAA0DCA5A99.jpeg

                            EBFDAE19-7995-4490-BB63-60B897471DDF.jpeg

                            88AA51C7-F895-4660-B1FA-5DDE5B6461BA.jpeg

                            It also looks like someone tried jacking the car up by the floor pan since it was all pushed in. A couple minutes later with a big hammer and that’s all straightened out.

                            542923C3-E9EA-454B-ACA0-4C0FB4C27465.jpeg

                            Now to figure out how to address that hole in the corner.

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                            • G
                              G
                              gilber33
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #636

                              Before 
                               

                              00901E30-6EE6-4CA0-94D8-C1DF1AF4AEF6.jpeg

                              After

                              E4B15D2C-5AC7-4C61-86E1-D2BABD0C67C5.jpeg

                              B06F3289-10F9-43B2-B69D-6C310C4F0209.jpeg

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                              0
                              • G
                                G
                                gilber33
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #637

                                Anyone have recommendations for best place to get AC o-rings? FCP doesn't carry all of them. AutohausAZ and Pelican Parts do (as well as a couple other things I was going to get) but I have not shopped through either of those stores before.

                                Amazon sells some o-ring kits, but BMW says I need a 7.65 mm o-ring and the kit has a 7.8 mm o-ring, I need a 11.1 mm o-ring and the kit has an 11 mm o-ring, or I need a 17.12 mm o ring and the kit has a 17 mm o ring. I don't know if that's a big deal or if the o-ring would still work.

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                                • B
                                  B
                                  Boris3
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #638

                                  If you have a realoem part number search the FCP site by number rather than by car. Sometimes stuff isn't cross listed. You can also call. 

                                  I've used Pelican in the past without issue. Typically would take longer to ship given west coast location.  They were bought by ECS in 2017.

                                  I've also used Autohaus AZ in the past for a few things but have not dealt with them for a long while.

                                  1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                                  • m42b32M
                                    m42b32M
                                    m42b32
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #639

                                    I've used both and the transactions were decent. Haven't dealt with Pelican since they were bought by ECS though (not because of that, just haven't as FCP has been my go to lately). If either sells a kit with the exactly correct O-ring sizes, I'd much prefer to use those in my opinion.

                                    1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                                    • G
                                      G
                                      gilber33
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #640

                                      I use FCP whenever possible. They just don't have all of the o-rings. RM European actually has the o-rings and the parts I'm looking for a little cheaper than FCP this time. With that said, I would spend a few more dollars to still use FCP if they had the o-rings.

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                                      • G
                                        G
                                        gilber33
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #641

                                        I got all the holes patched and sealed with seam sealer. Next I’ll paint the floors with Por15 to protect everything and do the same on the patches on the outside.

                                        Then need to replace the heater core, put down new sound deadening, dye the carpets and the interior can go back together. 

                                        438C9076-FBBB-42F8-9EE1-CAA7ED0E3303.jpeg

                                        C462A2B2-5B96-47C6-9774-9112646BCC15.jpeg

                                        A3B3E4DD-AC3E-4519-9765-2B29D48D1A74.jpeg

                                        A35E7976-4D21-4782-9B0D-FC76A2D730CA.jpeg

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                                        • G
                                          G
                                          gilber33
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #642

                                          Can anyone chime in if this looks correct? Installing the revshift TAB are a pain in the ass. I got one side in but it seems like there’s a gap where there shouldn’t be. The metal sleeve feels like it’s a 1/16” too long which means when the bushings are fully pressed in the sleeves protrudes past the bushing on each side a bit. So when they’re mounted to the subframe, I had to pound the trailing arms into the mounts, then because the sleeve is longer than the bushing, it creates a small gap between the trailing arm and the inside edge of the bushing  

                                          240154B5-9E48-45FD-9766-FC26F4F2FBBB.jpeg

                                          1377B93D-1BD6-4096-97FF-AB3B1AA004C7.jpeg
                                           

                                          here’s the other side where you can see it a little better. 

                                          794DCE67-4BE1-4761-BC03-DFFFD8299FE5.jpeg
                                           

                                          661974AD-36DF-46B4-84B2-09779E46F367.jpeg

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