Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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Anyone have any good recommendations for a brush on paint for the subframe besides por15?
I use KBS Coatings and I LOVE IT.
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I use KBS Coatings and I LOVE IT.
Where do you pick that up?
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Where do you pick that up?
Napa has it locally
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Napa has it locally
I got one by work. I'll check them out. ThanksLocal Napa only had Por15 so got some of that. Spent more than I wanted to on stuff to paint it, but, I guess it's fine.
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those parts dont look that rusty. is this car going to be driven in winter? seems almost unnecessary
Dan
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those parts dont look that rusty. is this car going to be driven in winter? seems almost unnecessary
It won’t be. And they’re not that bad. They’re out, it’s all apart, I’m waiting for other stuff. And then when it goes all back together it will be clean and fresh.
What front hub puller did you get? I ordered that 3020 one that you linked to in your wanted ad and it does not fit my axles?
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oh no, I'm sorry! i never even took mine out of the package, my axle pushed through the hub by hand.
i got my info from this DIY link: http://www.rtsauto.com/re-installing-rear-axles-into-hub-the-right-way-with-the-proper-tool-e30-bmw-porsche-etc/
Dan
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oh no, I'm sorry! i never even took mine out of the package, my axle pushed through the hub by hand.
i got my info from this DIY link: http://www.rtsauto.com/re-installing-rear-axles-into-hub-the-right-way-with-the-proper-tool-e30-bmw-porsche-etc/
Oh. Lol. Well, it was cheap at least. Haha. They both came out pretty easy so maybe they’ll slide in by hand.
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Oh. Lol. Well, it was cheap at least. Haha. They both came out pretty easy so maybe they’ll slide in by hand.
i see my error. i ordered the 20mm part number (3020) instead of the 22mm part number (3532)
Dan
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Where do you pick that up?
I buy it online or usually pick it up at the car swap meets throughout the year if I know I will be needing it. Shipping is super quick online too btw.
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Rear brake lines out of the this area and the parking brake cables are out. And then sprayed some underbody coating on it.
For what it's worth, 20-30 seconds of heat on the e-brake cables made them extremely easy to remove from the tubes - put some heat on them and they both pulled right out. I have never used more heat on a single project than I have on this one so far. But it has made everything significantly easier.
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While I annoyingly wait for my bushings from Revshift that supposedly shipped last Tuesday and after 3 phone calls promising to be sent tracking info and ultimately not being sent tracking info I took off the front of the car to get to the AC stuff and to address some rust that I anticipated being at the bottom of the fenders. Unfortunately I was right and I can poke the carpet from that corner on the DS. I’ll address that this winter, too.
EDIT: I also noticed how gross my calipers look and I know I could rebuild them, but they're pretty crusty and they would really need to be blasted to get clean again and I don't have a blast cabinet.
What's everyone's recommendations for getting rebuilt calipers? Autozone sells rebuilt calipers for the same price as FCP: about $45 for the front and $50 for the rears. I know I could rebuild them for cheaper, but by the time I get everything to rebuild them, I'm not spending that much more to just have nice rebuilt calipers. I also have a lot of caliper paint leftover from a previous car that I could paint them right away.
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I bought the centric rebuilt from turner motor sports when I snapped a bleeder on one of my stock calipers, no complaints. Everything worked well. Not sure why there’s such a significant price difference between them and FCP.
I always used Autozone on my Volvo's and never had any issues. Plus I can then bring in the cores with me so I don't have to pay a core charge. Hoping someone has some experience with theirs.
The Centric ones from Turner and FCP seem to be the other option.
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ive bought several dirt cheap Centric brand rebuilt calipers from Rockauto for the BMW and girly's Mazda. Most that have shown up are actually OEM BMW/Mazda rebuilds, they didnt even bother to grind the logo off. The guide pins were not suspect, but I guess the seals they use could be garbage quality. They are like 1/8th the price of real ATE or BMW calipers, so who cares if they don't last as long. I haven't had any problems. Also, the core charge is very clear and is refunded quickly.
Dan
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Since I still don't have my bushings or brake lines I've continued tearing apart the car for the other things I wanted to do this winter. This is expanding quite a bit to a "while I'm in there" situation.
I have the center console and seats out so I can remove the carpet to repair the rust hole, but now that the console is out I figure I might as well replace the heater core. I'll also remove the AC evaporator to make sure that all looks clean. So, the current list is:
- Finish rebuilding rear subframe
- Run new front to rear brake lines
- New front SS brake lines
- Install AC system
- Remove and inspect AC evaporator and replace necessary items
- Replace heater core and o-rings
- Rebuilt brake calipers with new pads and rotors
- Repair rust hole in driver side foot-well
- Clean and dye carpets black
- Remove rear speaker deck and dye carpet black
- Install correct washer fluid reservoir
- Install oil temp, oil pressure, and water temp gauges
- Still planning on respraying the car
I think that's mostly it. Although it's a big list, removing the engine is NOT on the list for the first time!!!! lol
I'm still sticking with my original goal of the car that was to have something that operates as it did when new but I something I can toss around on the back roads when I want to. Something that I can drive whenever and wherever. I also need it to be completely reliable because I would like to continue taking my daughters on adventures in it and I won't take them in something that I question if it will make it there and back without breaking down.
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