Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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And then snapped one of the studs on the rear manifold. Soooo, if anyone has a rear exhaust manifold for an m20b25, let me know!!!!!
is it one of the studs with enough clearance that you could drill/tap a new one in? as long as there is room for your drill, i think it should work.
i believe the studs are originally just pressed into hole in the flange, so drilling to that size shouldnt take a lot of effort.
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is it one of the studs with enough clearance that you could drill/tap a new one in? as long as there is room for your drill, i think it should work.
i believe the studs are originally just pressed into hole in the flange, so drilling to that size shouldnt take a lot of effort.
I think you are right. I found a few threads about people tapping the old one out and pounding a new stud in. However, all of them I read is that it took a lot of heating and an air hammer to get the old one out. I found a used set of manifolds for cheap. Easier and quicker than trying to get it out. And it sounds like the replacement studs are upwards of $20ea.
FWIW I have a UUC aluminum flywheel on an M50 and it is fantastic. Comparable weight is 11.5 lbs vs dual mass being around 26 lbs. Minor gear rattle, but totally worth it.
I'm not too worried about the rattle. It already rattles a little bit. How was daily driveability with the flywheel being that light? Something you got used to pretty quick I assume?
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I think you are right. I found a few threads about people tapping the old one out and pounding a new stud in. However, all of them I read is that it took a lot of heating and an air hammer to get the old one out. I found a used set of manifolds for cheap. Easier and quicker than trying to get it out. And it sounds like the replacement studs are upwards of $20ea.
i wouldn't bother punching out the old stud, or even buying the exact replacement bmw part. just drill out the hole/tap it. have a welder? drill out the hole and weld in a stud. no tapping needed.
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i wouldn't bother punching out the old stud, or even buying the exact replacement bmw part. just drill out the hole/tap it. have a welder? drill out the hole and weld in a stud. no tapping needed.
Word on the street is that welding to cast iron is a bad idea. I'd stick to tapping.
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I'm not too worried about the rattle. It already rattles a little bit. How was daily driveability with the flywheel being that light? Something you got used to pretty quick I assume?
No problem at all to daily, I liked it better all around. My wife also would drive it and had no problems. It is in the van swap now if I ever get that done.
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Looks older than an e46......... like so;

Fits the following:
BMW 318i
1984-1985 E30BMW 325e
1984-1986 E30BMW 325es
1986 E30BMW 535i
1985-1988BMW M5
1988 E28 -
M5 washer pump. Sweet upgrade!
time for some ///M badges
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Looks older than an e46......... like so;
Pretty good detective skills. Close, but not quite though!
I did some digging this morning and after some google image searching, found that it's a universal washer pump from Autozone.

Luckily, the one down the street from where I work was able to get one in for this afternoon.
M5 washer pump. Sweet upgrade!
time for some ///M badges
Do the badges make the car faster?
Back to the e30. Anyone know of a machine shop in the Milwaukee area that would lighten a flywheel? I called CS Performance in Butler and they do not do it.
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Back to the e30. Anyone know of a machine shop in the Milwaukee area that would lighten a flywheel? I called CS Performance in Butler and they do not do it.
Why not buy a lighter flywheel?
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Why not buy a lighter flywheel?
I still might go with the 7lb RHD flywheel. But I'd also like to see what my options are for have the stock one lightened.
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Throwing this out there if anyone is interested. I think I'm going to be listing the e46 and get back into an older Volvo wagon. I'll obviously post a proper fs post with pictures.
2005 325iT. 134k miles. Base model (manual seats, rwd, does not have cold weather package). Starts, runs, and drives great. No CEL or other lights. No rattles or clunks. Has the trunk cargo cover. I routinely get 30mpg to it on the highway and on our last family trip to Traverse City, MI we made it there on one tank of gas (~450 miles).
Work I've done to it:
- New control arms
- New sway bar links
- New front pads and rotors
- New windshield washer pump
- New heater control valve
- New fuel filter
- New tires (put on 12/3/18)
- New rear passenger window regulator
- New windshield cowl
- Passenger side seat airbag sensor emulator (to bypass seat sensor)
- Have new serpentine belt and AC belt, just not installed.
- New air filter
What it could use:
- Common e46 fuel gauge issues. It doesn't always read accurately right after filling it up, however, after a few starts the gauge reads as it should until you fill up again.
- Could use a driveshaft center support bearing in the near future. Every once in a while you get the "rumble strip" feel.
- I would do rear pads rotors at some point in the near future.
- New key fob (or replace batter in the current one). I am going to try to get to the dealer to order a new one.
- Tires should be balanced by an actual tire shop. After getting new tires there's a slight vibration at 60-65 in the steering wheel, but it's not bad, just a thing I noticed that others probably won't.
Asking $4,500obo for it based on what I can find for sale currently and what's been done to it. It's a great car, looking for something a little wider for the car seats.
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Oh man. I really want a Black E46 wagon. No rust I assume?
ughhh. Sadly I cant justify it with all these other projects I have at the moment. Trade you a MOMster truck?
lol.
There's a small bubble on the hatch in the handle area. Nothing nearly as bad as what I've seen on most e46s.

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