Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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I would look at the RHD Flywheel.
It's a nice piece, inexpensive, and quite light!I saw that one in the other thread and that's what got me thinking about doing it. But at 7lbs, is that too much racecar and make for difficult daily duty?
I like clamping force so I never take any material off the front face. I have had the ring on the backside machined down which got it down in the 12.5 lb range. It came with a tiny bit of gear rattle when idling in neutral but nothing horrible.
There will never be enough power. Dont be fooled by the power trap. I dont regret doing a turbo or the 24V swap but if I could do it again I think I would be happy with a 2.8 stroker, ITBs, coated headers, a mild cam, and megasquirt. The lower weight, response, and ease of repair and reliability (assuming megasquirt is setup and dialed in properly) are just the thing an E30 needs to be complete
I would never want to remove the clamping face of the flywheel.
And I picked up the e30 to get out of the power trap. I've had a few cars where my goal is power power power and it's either A) never enough or
it's too much and unnecessary.I picked the e30 because it's RWD and manual and for some reason have wanted to do an NA build after having all turbo cars. As I've worked on this car I have really grown to appreciate the M20 and the mechanical nature of the car. I really want to keep the M20 and maximize it. I feel like it needs a touch more power, and I think with the chip and some of these other bolt ons to improve the overall feel of the car it will be what I want. But I have 2 kids, I don't need a car anymore who's power band is only fun at 100+ mph (main reason I got rid of the S60R).
I also have a habit of picking up a car and then instantly modifying it to the point where it's a totally different car. Another reason I wanted to leave it mostly stock. I want to really learn how the car drives and be really good at driving it, before making it something different.
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I have never had issue with high clamping force clutches and lightweight flywheels. Does the rattle get annoying if it's in neutral with the clutch pedal let out? Kinda, but who cares.
I also ran unsprung discs on unsprung flywheels, never was bothered by that either.Nothing is more fun than a super free revving engine that is happy to take abusive rev matched downshifts.
All that said, do what you think you will like most, I frequently find myself enjoying the raw mechanical side of things, that may not be the same for you!
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And then snapped one of the studs on the rear manifold. Soooo, if anyone has a rear exhaust manifold for an m20b25, let me know!!!!!
is it one of the studs with enough clearance that you could drill/tap a new one in? as long as there is room for your drill, i think it should work.
i believe the studs are originally just pressed into hole in the flange, so drilling to that size shouldnt take a lot of effort.
Dan
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is it one of the studs with enough clearance that you could drill/tap a new one in? as long as there is room for your drill, i think it should work.
i believe the studs are originally just pressed into hole in the flange, so drilling to that size shouldnt take a lot of effort.
I think you are right. I found a few threads about people tapping the old one out and pounding a new stud in. However, all of them I read is that it took a lot of heating and an air hammer to get the old one out. I found a used set of manifolds for cheap. Easier and quicker than trying to get it out. And it sounds like the replacement studs are upwards of $20ea.
FWIW I have a UUC aluminum flywheel on an M50 and it is fantastic. Comparable weight is 11.5 lbs vs dual mass being around 26 lbs. Minor gear rattle, but totally worth it.
I'm not too worried about the rattle. It already rattles a little bit. How was daily driveability with the flywheel being that light? Something you got used to pretty quick I assume?
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I think you are right. I found a few threads about people tapping the old one out and pounding a new stud in. However, all of them I read is that it took a lot of heating and an air hammer to get the old one out. I found a used set of manifolds for cheap. Easier and quicker than trying to get it out. And it sounds like the replacement studs are upwards of $20ea.
i wouldn't bother punching out the old stud, or even buying the exact replacement bmw part. just drill out the hole/tap it. have a welder? drill out the hole and weld in a stud. no tapping needed.
Dan
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i wouldn't bother punching out the old stud, or even buying the exact replacement bmw part. just drill out the hole/tap it. have a welder? drill out the hole and weld in a stud. no tapping needed.
Word on the street is that welding to cast iron is a bad idea. I'd stick to tapping.
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I'm not too worried about the rattle. It already rattles a little bit. How was daily driveability with the flywheel being that light? Something you got used to pretty quick I assume?
No problem at all to daily, I liked it better all around. My wife also would drive it and had no problems. It is in the van swap now if I ever get that done.
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Exhaust and driveshaft out so the transmission can come out.
And started tackling the rust hole behind the rear wheel. This is after i trimmed it out. Going to cut some pieces out of sheet metal, tack them in, amd then coat it all with truck bed liner. Should be interesting.
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Looks older than an e46......... like so;
Fits the following:
BMW 318i
1984-1985 E30BMW 325e
1984-1986 E30BMW 325es
1986 E30BMW 535i
1985-1988BMW M5
1988 E28
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
M5 washer pump. Sweet upgrade!
time for some ///M badges
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Looks older than an e46......... like so;
Pretty good detective skills. Close, but not quite though!
I did some digging this morning and after some google image searching, found that it's a universal washer pump from Autozone.
Luckily, the one down the street from where I work was able to get one in for this afternoon.
M5 washer pump. Sweet upgrade!
time for some ///M badges
Do the badges make the car faster?
Back to the e30. Anyone know of a machine shop in the Milwaukee area that would lighten a flywheel? I called CS Performance in Butler and they do not do it.
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Back to the e30. Anyone know of a machine shop in the Milwaukee area that would lighten a flywheel? I called CS Performance in Butler and they do not do it.
Why not buy a lighter flywheel?
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Why not buy a lighter flywheel?
I still might go with the 7lb RHD flywheel. But I'd also like to see what my options are for have the stock one lightened.
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Throwing this out there if anyone is interested. I think I'm going to be listing the e46 and get back into an older Volvo wagon. I'll obviously post a proper fs post with pictures.
2005 325iT. 134k miles. Base model (manual seats, rwd, does not have cold weather package). Starts, runs, and drives great. No CEL or other lights. No rattles or clunks. Has the trunk cargo cover. I routinely get 30mpg to it on the highway and on our last family trip to Traverse City, MI we made it there on one tank of gas (~450 miles).
Work I've done to it:
- New control arms
- New sway bar links
- New front pads and rotors
- New windshield washer pump
- New heater control valve
- New fuel filter
- New tires (put on 12/3/18)
- New rear passenger window regulator
- New windshield cowl
- Passenger side seat airbag sensor emulator (to bypass seat sensor)
- Have new serpentine belt and AC belt, just not installed.
- New air filter
What it could use:
- Common e46 fuel gauge issues. It doesn't always read accurately right after filling it up, however, after a few starts the gauge reads as it should until you fill up again.
- Could use a driveshaft center support bearing in the near future. Every once in a while you get the "rumble strip" feel.
- I would do rear pads rotors at some point in the near future.
- New key fob (or replace batter in the current one). I am going to try to get to the dealer to order a new one.
- Tires should be balanced by an actual tire shop. After getting new tires there's a slight vibration at 60-65 in the steering wheel, but it's not bad, just a thing I noticed that others probably won't.
Asking $4,500obo for it based on what I can find for sale currently and what's been done to it. It's a great car, looking for something a little wider for the car seats.
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