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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • B
    B
    Boris3
    wrote on last edited by
    #172

    I'm not an engine guy so others with more experience will weigh in but what method did you use to adjust your valves, and what settings did you use? The m20 even when healthy will sound a bit like a sewing machine but your does not sound right. 

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=277021

    1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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    • G
      G
      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #173

      Boris3 said:

      I'm not an engine guy so others with more experience will weigh in but what method did you use to adjust your valves, and what settings did you use? The m20 even when healthy will sound a bit like a sewing machine but your does not sound right. 

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=277021

      Using a .010 feeler gauge in between the eccentric and the valve. I guess with the engine cold I can double check them. When its warm it sounds good. Just the first couple mins of that cold start. 

      I think I'll readjust the valves to the slightly tighter clearance that that post says and go from there.

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      • B
        B
        Boris3
        wrote on last edited by
        #174

        If it turns out to be not valves/rockers, then maybe it's an oil pressure on startup issue? Some oil filters have drain back issues, stock Mann/Mahle are better choices. What happens with your oil pressure light on startup? Granted the light doesn't tell you much compared to an actual gauge but if it is staying on for a bit that could be an indicator. It should go off a second or two after startup.

        1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

        1 Reply Last reply
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        • G
          G
          gilber33
          wrote on last edited by
          #175

          Boris3 said:

          If it turns out to be not valves/rockers, then maybe it's an oil pressure on startup issue? Some oil filters have drain back issues, stock Mann/Mahle are better choices. What happens with your oil pressure light on startup? Granted the light doesn't tell you much compared to an actual gauge but if it is staying on for a bit that could be an indicator. It should go off a second or two after startup.

          I had a Mann filter in at first and this one now is a Bosche. So I don't think it's a filter. 

          Oil pressure was my thought and why I went to the thinner oil. My only hope is that there was still some thick stuff left and now that the new oil has made it's way around the block, that it will start up and sound great this morning.

          I haven't looked for the oil pressure light, but I didnt see any dash lights on.

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          • SteelBlueS
            SteelBlueS
            SteelBlue
            wrote on last edited by
            #176

            gilber33 said:

            Back on the ground! Hopefully for a while this time. One of the tie rod securing nuts was frozen, so it got new tie rods. Oil is drained out and new stuff goes in tomorrow. Fixed the hood ground strap. Getting the lights finished. Pretty excited. 

            20181006233555.jpg

            Now my standard question. How would I go about aligning this bumper?

            20181006233559.jpg

            I LOVE how this car looks. What are the wheels?

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            • G
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              gilber33
              wrote on last edited by
              #177

              SteelBlue said:

              I LOVE how this car looks. What are the wheels?

              They're RS reps made by ESM. They make a lot of bbs reps and they're pretty cheap/affordable.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • jc43089J
                jc43089J
                jc43089
                wrote on last edited by
                #178

                The oil pressure light should come on when you turn the key to run before starting the engine.  If the switch is failed open or the bulb is burned out it will never come on.

                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                • G
                  G
                  gilber33
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #179

                  jc43089 said:

                  The oil pressure light should come on when you turn the key to run before starting the engine.  If the switch is failed open or the bulb is burned out it will never come on.

                  I'll double check that it comes on. 

                  Otherwise any other ideas about the noise?

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                  0
                  • jc43089J
                    jc43089J
                    jc43089
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #180

                    Are you sure it isn't an exhaust leak?  It might be sealing up after it gets warm?  I have heard an exhaust leak sound by the manifold sound like that.

                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • G
                      G
                      gilber33
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #181

                      Definitely louder on the exhaust side. Easy thing to check as well.

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                      • jc43089J
                        jc43089J
                        jc43089
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #182

                        After running it a while you might see a sooty looking spot where the leak is.

                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • G
                          G
                          gilber33
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #183

                          jc43089 said:

                          After running it a while you might see a sooty looking spot where the leak is.

                          All the exhaust manifold bolts had maybe half a turn on them to be tight and a couple had more. The down pipes also had some 1/4 to half turns. The sound was significantly less and went away quicker. 

                          Now, if it was an exhaust leak or the new oil getting everywhere, idk. But it was much improved. Finally had it out of the garage and washed down some of the dirty engine bay. 

                          20181008151937.jpg

                          20181008152911.jpg

                          20181008152900.jpg

                          20181008152131.jpg

                          And as usual, question time. I put in an e36 rack, new lines, and rebuilt the PS pump, but when I'm parked, it feels like I have zero power steering. As soon as I start moving it feels normal. Is this a normal e30 behavior or is there something wrong?

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • B
                            B
                            Boris3
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #184

                            Glad to see it out. Sorry , no help on PS. I've removed it on both of mine.

                            1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • jc43089J
                              jc43089J
                              jc43089
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #185

                              I thought that sounded like exhaust leakage, strange how it can sound like a knock or tick.  

                              For the power steering, how old is the pump?  I need to rebuild mine because it is similar, just weak and once you are moving it doesn't need as much help.  Mine makes a whining noise.  I am going to get the rebuild kit and take it apart in class the week I teach my fluid power class about hydraulic pumps.  Mine comes and goes too, sometimes it works pretty well and sometimes not hardly any assist.  I wonder if the relief valve is sticking open sometimes.

                              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • G
                                G
                                gilber33
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #186

                                jc43089 said:

                                I thought that sounded like exhaust leakage, strange how it can sound like a knock or tick.  

                                For the power steering, how old is the pump?  I need to rebuild mine because it is similar, just weak and once you are moving it doesn't need as much help.  Mine makes a whining noise.  I am going to get the rebuild kit and take it apart in class the week I teach my fluid power class about hydraulic pumps.  Mine comes and goes too, sometimes it works pretty well and sometimes not hardly any assist.  I wonder if the relief valve is sticking open sometimes.

                                I actually rebuilt it while it was. Talking to others, it sounds like the system just needs to be bled. I had it completely apart.

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                                0
                                • jc43089J
                                  jc43089J
                                  jc43089
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #187

                                  gilber33 said:

                                  I actually rebuilt it while it was. Talking to others, it sounds like the system just needs to be bled. I had it completely apart. 

                                  Ahh, yea several lock to lock turns should work the air out of the system.  The reservoir might need to be topped off a couple times.

                                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • G
                                    G
                                    gilber33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #188

                                    jc43089 said:

                                    Ahh, yea several lock to lock turns should work the air out of the system.  The reservoir might need to be topped off a couple times.

                                    Well, after lots of lock to lock turns it seems like nothing really happened. Fluid level didn't go down. I confirmed there was fluid going to the pump and after the pump. There were noticeable are bubbles coming out of the reservoir. 

                                    One thing that seemed weird is the fluid didn't get warm. I understand there wasn't any force to turning the wheels, but I would assume it'd get a little warm going through the pump. 

                                    I guess I'll drive it and see if anything happens. No leaks at the pump or anything.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • jc43089J
                                      jc43089J
                                      jc43089
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #189

                                      If there is a leak on the suction side of the pump it will suck in air.  That would be the large hose to the bottom of the reservoir from the pump.

                                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • G
                                        G
                                        gilber33
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #190

                                        jc43089 said:

                                        If there is a leak on the suction side of the pump it will suck in air.  That would be the large hose to the bottom of the reservoir from the pump.

                                        I cranked down the banjo bolt at the pump and the hose on the bottom of the reservoir is leak free. And the hose is brand new. 

                                        If it doesn't get better after driving it, I think I'll replace the pump next. Idk what else it could be  the rack is leak free.

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                                        0
                                        • G
                                          G
                                          gilber33
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #191

                                          OK, I think it's the pump. For having a bunch of air in the system, the pump was not whining at all and the fluid was not foamy whatsoever. That makes me think the pump isn't working like it should be. Probably something I did because I took it apart to rebuild it, so I must have messed it up somehow. 😒

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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