Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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I LOVE how this car looks. What are the wheels?
They're RS reps made by ESM. They make a lot of bbs reps and they're pretty cheap/affordable.
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The oil pressure light should come on when you turn the key to run before starting the engine. If the switch is failed open or the bulb is burned out it will never come on.
I'll double check that it comes on.
Otherwise any other ideas about the noise?
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After running it a while you might see a sooty looking spot where the leak is.
All the exhaust manifold bolts had maybe half a turn on them to be tight and a couple had more. The down pipes also had some 1/4 to half turns. The sound was significantly less and went away quicker.
Now, if it was an exhaust leak or the new oil getting everywhere, idk. But it was much improved. Finally had it out of the garage and washed down some of the dirty engine bay.
And as usual, question time. I put in an e36 rack, new lines, and rebuilt the PS pump, but when I'm parked, it feels like I have zero power steering. As soon as I start moving it feels normal. Is this a normal e30 behavior or is there something wrong?
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I thought that sounded like exhaust leakage, strange how it can sound like a knock or tick.
For the power steering, how old is the pump? I need to rebuild mine because it is similar, just weak and once you are moving it doesn't need as much help. Mine makes a whining noise. I am going to get the rebuild kit and take it apart in class the week I teach my fluid power class about hydraulic pumps. Mine comes and goes too, sometimes it works pretty well and sometimes not hardly any assist. I wonder if the relief valve is sticking open sometimes.
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I thought that sounded like exhaust leakage, strange how it can sound like a knock or tick.
For the power steering, how old is the pump? I need to rebuild mine because it is similar, just weak and once you are moving it doesn't need as much help. Mine makes a whining noise. I am going to get the rebuild kit and take it apart in class the week I teach my fluid power class about hydraulic pumps. Mine comes and goes too, sometimes it works pretty well and sometimes not hardly any assist. I wonder if the relief valve is sticking open sometimes.
I actually rebuilt it while it was. Talking to others, it sounds like the system just needs to be bled. I had it completely apart.
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I actually rebuilt it while it was. Talking to others, it sounds like the system just needs to be bled. I had it completely apart.
Ahh, yea several lock to lock turns should work the air out of the system. The reservoir might need to be topped off a couple times.
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Ahh, yea several lock to lock turns should work the air out of the system. The reservoir might need to be topped off a couple times.
Well, after lots of lock to lock turns it seems like nothing really happened. Fluid level didn't go down. I confirmed there was fluid going to the pump and after the pump. There were noticeable are bubbles coming out of the reservoir.
One thing that seemed weird is the fluid didn't get warm. I understand there wasn't any force to turning the wheels, but I would assume it'd get a little warm going through the pump.
I guess I'll drive it and see if anything happens. No leaks at the pump or anything.
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If there is a leak on the suction side of the pump it will suck in air. That would be the large hose to the bottom of the reservoir from the pump.
I cranked down the banjo bolt at the pump and the hose on the bottom of the reservoir is leak free. And the hose is brand new.
If it doesn't get better after driving it, I think I'll replace the pump next. Idk what else it could be the rack is leak free.
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OK, I think it's the pump. For having a bunch of air in the system, the pump was not whining at all and the fluid was not foamy whatsoever. That makes me think the pump isn't working like it should be. Probably something I did because I took it apart to rebuild it, so I must have messed it up somehow.
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Power steering fixed! Swapped in an ZF pump off of Ebay and that took care of it. Not sure how I messed up rebuilding the Vickers pump, but oh well.
Also drained some of the coolant and shortened the thermostat to water pump hose. It was a little long at the thermostat and the radiator fan was starting to shave some of the hose.
Next up, possibly adjust the valves to see if that effects the rattle on cold starts.
Question time: where do you guys take your lowered cars for alignments in southeastern WI?
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Driven it to work twice now and so far so good! The rattle on cold starts seems to be gone. I'm not sure what happened, but when I started it this morning, it just sounded like a normal car. Small rattle from the clutch/transmission, but from what I've read, it sounds like this getrag has a small rattle. It goes away when the clutch is pushed in and in gear. Also, I haven't had a manual car in a while, so it may also just be the single mass flywheel.
On the downside, it appears the radio took a shit. When I reconnected the battery, I just get an orange screen. I don't even have the opportunity to enter the code. I've let it sit on for 1+ hours. I disconnected the power from the back of the radio. Nothing. Will get a new radio, kind of bummed that the factory one won't be in there and I'm not paying the money that it looks like the used radios go for.
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Small rattle from the clutch/transmission, but from what I've read, it sounds like this getrag has a small rattle. It goes away when the clutch is pushed in and in gear. Also, I haven't had a manual car in a while, so it may also just be the single mass flywheel.
The rattle is worn transmission input shaft bearings. (if it only happens in neutral with the clutch engaged and disappears when the clutch is disengaged).
A lightweight/single mass flywheel will make the noise worse. Don't worry about it - the Getrag will chug along 300,000+ miles that way. You could fix it, but that involves rebuilding the trans or finding one that doesnt already rattle.
A previous m20 e30 that I owned started the Getrag rattle with about 170k miles on it. I sold the car with 250k miles on it and it was still fine/hadnt gotten noticeably worse.
Dan
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The rattle is worn transmission input shaft bearings. (if it only happens in neutral with the clutch engaged and disappears when the clutch is disengaged).
A lightweight/single mass flywheel will make the noise worse. Don't worry about it - the Getrag will chug along 300,000+ miles that way. You could fix it, but that involves rebuilding the trans or finding one that doesnt already rattle.
A previous m20 e30 that I owned started the Getrag rattle with about 170k miles on it. I sold the car with 250k miles on it and it was still fine/hadnt gotten noticeably worse.
I will be leaving it for now. If somehow it affects drivability, then I'll look at it, but the car shifts great and there are no signs that there's something terribly wrong.
But, one thing has crept up that I've noticed. Everyone once in a while when I'm driving, it is usually just cruising along, the car seems to cut out for half a second and jolts. It feels almost as if the throttle body snapped shut and then opened back up. Then the car keeps going as if nothing happened. The cluster doesn't change, the needles don't zero out, no lights come on. I've read that the main relay and ECU can eventually start going bad and cause little blips like this. I would assume if the main relay was bad, there would be a loss of electrical power, not just "mechanical" power.
Maybe the TPS is glitching and on its way out?
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