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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • The Full BananaT
    The Full BananaT
    The Full Banana
    wrote on last edited by
    #139

    For 80s and earlier production cars, I totally agree.

    For my 242, I converted back to halogens with quality OSRAM bulbs in Hella euro housings powered by a relayed harness drawing directly from the battery. Light output and pattern are excellent. 

    That said, get your car driving and fix the lights later! 😛

    Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

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    • G
      G
      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #140

      The Full Banana said:

      For 80s and earlier production cars, I totally agree.

      In my 242, I converted back to halogens with quality OSRAM bulbs in Hella euro housings powered by a relayed harness drawing directly from the battery and light output and pattern is excellent.  

      That said, get your car driving and fix the lights later! 😛

      Get off my back.

      With that out of the way. Fixing the lights will be plug and play if I fix the housing or just get a new set and sell these. You'll have to show me how to do a relayed harness pulling power from the battery.

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      • straight6pwrS
        straight6pwrS
        straight6pwr
        wrote on last edited by
        #141

        jc43089 said:

        If the housings were designed for halogen then HID bulbs may have a poor light pattern.  The Depo lights on my e36 have better output and cut off with H1 halogen bulbs that they were designed for.  Now a proper HID projector housing with HID is going to be better still but my point is that it isn't as simple as "HID is always better".

        e30 projector headlights are WAY better with HID bulbs. if HID bulbs in your e36 depos were worse than the H1 bulbs, you just had crap HID bulbs. there is no difference in the light 'physics' between the way a HID bulb and a halogen works - they are both point source. yes, new HID projector bowls take greater advantage of the extra light, but thats besides the point.  I agree HID is not always better, but when it comes to 80s/90s BMW projectors, they are.

        Dan
        yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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        • G
          G
          gilber33
          wrote on last edited by
          #142

          Two questions:

          Where does this ground go? 

          And what is this plug for? I found it bundled up by the DS strut tower. 

          20180924234056.jpg

          20180924221952.jpg

          20180924222008.jpg

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          • jc43089J
            jc43089J
            jc43089
            wrote on last edited by
            #143

            straight6pwr said:

            e30 projector headlights are WAY better with HID bulbs. if HID bulbs in your e36 depos were worse than the H1 bulbs, you just had crap HID bulbs. there is no difference in the light 'physics' between the way a HID bulb and a halogen works - they are both point source. yes, new HID projector bowls take greater advantage of the extra light, but thats besides the point.  I agree HID is not always better, but when it comes to 80s/90s BMW projectors, they are.

            That is quite possible that the HID setup in my e36 was junk quality bulbs/ballasts.  They had no name on them which is usually an indicator...  Good to know that was my issue.

            The Depo projectors are better than stock e36 US lights but still not fantastic.  I want to do a retrofit to a quality projector but family budget things...

            2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
            3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
            '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

            '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

            '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
            '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
            '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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            • JdesignJ
              JdesignJ
              Jdesign
              wrote on last edited by
              #144

              gilber33 said:

              Two questions:

              Where does this ground go? 

              And what is this plug for? I found it bundled up by the DS strut tower. 

              Not sure were is that ground coming from? Directly from the battery? If so that should go directly to the block.

              That plug looks to be one for the brake pad sensors/liners

              SumBunny.jpg

              https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

              🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
              👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
              ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
              🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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              • G
                G
                gilber33
                wrote on last edited by
                #145

                Jdesign said:

                Not sure were is that ground coming from? Directly from the battery? If so that should go directly to the block.

                That plug looks to be one for the brake pad sensors/liners

                The ground is coming through the firewall, so I assume it must be coming from the battery. I'll look for a spot where it naturally wants to "fall".

                Oh, didn't know this car had brake pad sensors. I guess I'll keep it bunched up there for now.

                Thanks!

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                • straight6pwrS
                  straight6pwrS
                  straight6pwr
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #146

                  gilber33 said:

                  Oh, didn't know this car had brake pad sensors. I guess I'll keep it bunched up there for now.

                  many e30 guys just connect the two sensor wires and stop using the sensors. they can be finicky and the wires in the wheel well can corrode/break, so its easier to stop using them.

                  Dan
                  yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                  • GunMetalGreyG
                    GunMetalGreyG
                    GunMetalGrey
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #147

                    I would verify that the cable in question is indeed a ground, because it looks all too much like the positive battery cable for a starter. It has the same style blade and all. 
                    I know that they are classically on the chassis harness, but it just strikes me as odd.

                    ...

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    1
                    • G
                      G
                      gilber33
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #148

                      GunMetalGrey said:

                      I would verify that the cable in question is indeed a ground, because it looks all too much like the positive battery cable for a starter. It has the same style blade and all. 
                      I know that they are classically on the chassis harness, but it just strikes me as odd. 

                      I think you're right. Damn. I vividly remember only bolting on one large red cable on the post (in addition to the two smaller cables on their individual posts). All the images I can find of the starter on the e30 shows two large cables on the same post; one being a large black cable. That red cable must be going to the alternator.

                      That would have been a really frustrating thing to diagnose. Good catch!

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                      • JdesignJ
                        JdesignJ
                        Jdesign
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #149

                        Yea I would assume its a the starter cable. I just assume that since you said ground that it was one. 😉

                        SumBunny.jpg

                        https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                        🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                        👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                        ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                        🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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                        • G
                          G
                          gilber33
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #150

                          Jdesign said:

                           Yea I would assume its a the starter cable. I just assume that since you said ground that it was one. 😉

                          I assumed it was a ground. On my past Volvos all the power leads were always red and grounds were black or blue.

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                          0
                          • G
                            G
                            gilber33
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #151

                            Put in the new swaybar last night. Godspeed off of Ebay for $90 shipped with Installation hardware. 

                            Old one was done I would say. Also, safe bet that's where most of the front end clunks were coming from. 

                            20180926221635.jpg

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                            • G
                              G
                              gilber33
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #152

                              Anyone know what this plug is for behind the glove box by the ECU? Putting the interior back together and I don't see where this one should plug in. 

                              20180929151323.jpg

                              Getting really close to starting this. Transmission is filled with fresh MTL, clutch is bled, engine has oil. The setback came when I filled it up with coolant and the thermostat cover was seeping. The part that sucked was the radiator was so full of crud on the bottom the drain valve didn't even work so I had to drain it by just removing the thermostat cover. Then I pulled the radiator and flushed it. Tons of gross stuff in there. That's back in. Tonight or tomorrow I'll fill it back up and then try starting it. The battery is charging now.

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                              • YoungCRY
                                YoungCRY
                                YoungCR
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #153

                                I believe that is an extra maybe for autos? The car will run without it

                                Chris Young
                                BMWCCA #458972
                                1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                                • G
                                  G
                                  gilber33
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #154

                                  YoungCR said:

                                  I believe that is an extra maybe for autos? The car will run without it

                                  Works for me! Thank you

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                                  0
                                  • G
                                    G
                                    gilber33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #155

                                    Okay, so it started up. Took some troubleshooting because I reversed the feed and return fuel lines. It sounded kinda gross at first but once it built oil pressure it sounded really good. 

                                    Two things I am noticing right now. 

                                    1. When I blip the throttle it kind of stumbles when the RPMs come back down. 

                                    2. The temp gauge was creeping past the middle mark on the gauge after about 10 mins of idling on jack stands. It does not have an electric fan, but hasn't had one in who knows how long and it was fine. My thought is maybe the coolant system needs to be bled since it was COMPLETELY drained. 

                                    Edit: Going to try adjusting the throttle body some to address the stumble.

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                                    • P_RoloffP
                                      P_RoloffP
                                      P_Roloff
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #156

                                      gilber33 said:

                                      Okay, so it started up. Took some troubleshooting because I reversed the feed and return fuel lines. It sounded kinda gross at first but once it built oil pressure it sounded really good. 

                                      Two things I am noticing right now. 

                                      1. When I blip the throttle it kind of stumbles when the RPMs come back down. 

                                      2. The temp gauge was creeping past the middle mark on the gauge after about 10 mins of idling on jack stands. It does not have an electric fan, but hasn't had one in who knows how long and it was fine. My thought is maybe the coolant system needs to be bled since it was COMPLETELY drained. 

                                      Edit: Going to try adjusting the throttle body some to address the stumble. 

                                      I’ve had issues with the same stumbling, although it was accompanied by a somewhat poor idle. Check for vacuum leaks and make sure the  throttle position sensor is adjusted correctly and work from there. What do you mean by adjusting the throttle body? I wouldn’t touch the adjustment screw, just make sure the cable isn’t sitting too tight so that it holds the throttle open slightly. That’ll screw with the TPS reading. 

                                      For cooling, I would definitely bleed it and then see what happens. If it was totally empty, there’s probably a good bit of air in there still.

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                                      • G
                                        G
                                        gilber33
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #157

                                        I meant adjust the cable and TPS if I need to.  

                                        And I did a lot more reading on bleeding the cooling system. I'm pretty sure that's what I need to do.

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                                        1
                                        • G
                                          G
                                          gilber33
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #158

                                          Getting the interior cleaned up a little bit. Shampooed the carpets and have some new floor mats coming in addition to a factory parking brake handle to get rid of the M handle thingy. 

                                          20181002231351.jpg

                                          20181002231756.jpg

                                          20181002231750.jpg

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