Joined the Club Today
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Got the rest of the plumbing finished up on the driver side. Was going to replace that one crusty pipe but since it's for the charcoal canister and I don't think that's even hooked up, I just left it and hooked it up. Corroded, but didn't see anything structural.
Last bit is to hook this bit up. Thicker line runs to the top of the expansion tank, thinner line runs to the bottom. Does the thin one go to the pipe molded into the tank or to the black plastic one? Black plastic one is the one that runs to the charcoal canister. Or is it the thick one that runs to the molded line?
I would still like to hook them up regardless if the charcoal canister is properly working or not.
New hard lines also installed. Just need to hook them up at the front, but stupidly forgot to label them. Does anyone know which is which in the picture below? Return/feed? Figured I'd ask before removing the intake manifold and everything to take a look. Left is front of the car, right is to the rear of the car.
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Front is supply on an M50, the FPR is at the back of the rail.
Thank you.
Think I found the answer to my expansion tank issue.
I don't why it took so long to find this diagram. My car on RealOEM does not give me this diagram.
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Can't wait to shoot another dowel into the bell housing.
Maybe I was just doing it wrong but getting it in there wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it was. I cut a little bit of that sound deadening foam on the trans tunnel to give me a little more wiggle room.
Kind of want to buy one of those reverse bleeders to bleed this as my first attempt was a failure. Anyone have an experience with something like one of these?
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@patsbimmer1 got it hooked up again for these euro smoked smiley cross hairs. Makes such a huge difference the to the look of the front of the car.
Not concerned about getting the running lights hooked up, just want to get the low and high beams. I knew that the chassis harness and the headlight harness were not plug and play. If anyone has done these before, can I buy a 9005/9006 male plug and spice the chassis harness into the plug?
Also got my other taillight wrapped.
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Yes, get a male connector to splice into the chassis wiring. There is a simple modification you can do to the relay to keep the low beams from turning off when the high beams are on. I can look it up for you if you find out you need it. Any auto parts store will have the headlight connector on hand.
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Yes, get a male connector to splice into the chassis wiring. There is a simple modification you can do to the relay to keep the low beams from turning off when the high beams are on. I can look it up for you if you find out you need it. Any auto parts store will have the headlight connector on hand.
Believe its the 30 and 87 on the relay that need to be jumped.
But thank you.
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Like I mentioned in another thread, just make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir and pump the pedal a few times every 15 minutes or so while doing other things. It will bleed itself by the air rising up to the reservoir. No mess, just watch the bubbles come up into the reservoir. Pumping the pedal once in a while dislodges more air and waiting in between gives it time to rise in the system. You don't need to open the bleed screw at all.
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Like I mentioned in another thread, just make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir and pump the pedal a few times every 15 minutes or so while doing other things. It will bleed itself by the air rising up to the reservoir. No mess, just watch the bubbles come up into the reservoir. Pumping the pedal once in a while dislodges more air and waiting in between gives it time to rise in the system. You don't need to open the bleed screw at all.
Gonna give this bleeder a try, if it doesn't work I will fall back to this.
I also completed my first ever wiring adventure, only had to redo two connectors because I hooked them to the wrong wire...
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Well, used the reverse bleeder and got some pedal feel but not great. Was going to use @jc43089 method of just pumping it a little bit every now and then, pumped it like 5-10 times and the slave shot the dowel out again. Dowel is in the bell housing.
I just don’t understand what I’m doing wrong. Slave was protruding off the bell housing studs before I tightened them down, so I’m figured it was on.
Trans is probably going to have to come off now. Know that’s a bitch and not exactly motivated to do that.
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Aww crap!
I have to wonder if you have the right throwout bearing, slave cyl, or just verify that the TOB is installed correctly.
i dont want to tell you to make an access hole in your bellhousing that you can put a plug into, but at this rate....
real sorry man, i remember reading similar tales on R3V long ago
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Aww crap!
I have to wonder if you have the right throwout bearing, slave cyl, or just verify that the TOB is installed correctly.
i dont want to tell you to make an access hole in your bellhousing that you can put a plug into, but at this rate....
real sorry man, i remember reading similar tales on R3V long ago
Was thinking the same thing in the shower.
Really not sure what I'm gonna do at this point. If someone wants some extra cash hit me up. Or if someone wants a 95% complete S52 swapped E30, hit me up.
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Interesting as it seems this is a common issue. With little searching I just found about 5 threads about clutch bleeding/ slaves issues.
One guy said he had a bad pressure plate right out of the box, another said it was the clutch fork, another said it was the plastic pin
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=605869&page=2
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=256720&page=2
Also, If the pin is shooting out I would assume there is too much throw? I would unbolt the slave and stick a magnet through the hole to get the pin rather than dropping the trans FYI. I know its on the side but its worth a shot.
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out? The only way it can shoot out is something allowing it to overextend. I don't remember what your clutch setup was. What stuff do you have matched up? And did you compare the stack height to the stock stack height?
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out?
My q as well. If it’s all zf bits in the trans I’m not sure how it would fall out
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out? The only way it can shoot out is something allowing it to overextend. I don't remember what your clutch setup was. What stuff do you have matched up? And did you compare the stack height to the stock stack height?
This is the clutch and flywheel I am using:
I was probably a little hasty in assuming that everything is direct replacements. I assumed based off of the product listing applications that because this was for an E36 M3 that it would work.
Or it’s my own fault and have installed something incorrectly in the trans. However, I followed the Pelican Parts clutch replacement guide and made sure everything was correct. The car had moved under its own power before I had replaced the clutch. I’m guess I’m not sure where the disconnect is between driving and now this.
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Clutches stress me out so bad. Every time I have done one I always stress myself out because you have no idea if you did it completely right until the car is back together and running.
I once had a 2x4 scrap piece that I wedged between the back of the block and the firewall to hold the engine in place fall into the bell housing as I was putting the transmission back in. Luckily it didn't do any damage and just made a rattle.
Moral of the story, I am of no help here but it unfortunately sounds like something is not sitting right or spaced correctly and the transmission has to come back off.
keep it up!
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