Joined the Club Today
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Looks like a degrading chart with no numerical value.
It might be correct though. You can always call to confirm.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Found a guy selling a gas tank on R3V, was able to purchase the one hard line I needed off of it.
Tried to do a little research regarding the vent line and purchased it through the dealer. Can return if it's not right. Planning on just trying to line it up with the one on there and see if it matches.
I purchased a new master cylinder with the new slave because I want to replace the whole system to avoid and hopefully correct whatever issue I had. I was watching this master cylinder replacement video and he had the same issue I had, clutch pedal shoot straight to the floor. Mine could have been doing this for a couple of reasons, but I'm hoping it's just because the master was bad. I would press the piston in and it would stick in the "pressed down" position. Also seemed to have a lot of play in the shaft, but I'll have to compare with the new one. Getting a new hard line and hose to the reservoir as well.
Working under the dash sucks. Only having a cunt hair to wiggle around is annoying. I usually end up removing the seat and putting my feet up on the rear seat.
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easily one of the worst jobs on an e30 due to the contortionist act.
Dan
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Mastery cylinder replaced with new clutch hard line and reservoir line. Surprisingly easier going in than coming out(buh dum tss).
My dumbass thought I bought the wrong one because it wasn't contacting the switch in the resting position. Turns out you can adjust those. This is also for the cruise control, which I uninstalled, so inconsequential in the whole scenario. Brake switch was also not being contacted when the pedal was in the resting position, so adjusted that and they work now.
Might have found my coolant leak? Was looking around under the car when I was working with the clutch line and noticed some sheen on the coolant pipe. While in the picture below it might just look shiny, it is indeed covered in some residual fluid after running my finger along it. Hopefully this hose could just be replaced and fix the issue? If not, I still have the OBD1 coolant pipe adapter and spider hose in the case that this is not the issue. I'm not sure how long coolant would hang on a pipe as the car has not been started since October or November. Never had any puddles under the car so maybe an incredibly gradual leak? Who knows.
Just waiting on my last fuel tank hard line before I can start miserable experience that will be getting the gas tank installed and hooked up again.
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I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking at in that last picture, but the hose clamp looks too tight. I also see a hose that isn't connected to anything.
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I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking at in that last picture, but the hose clamp looks too tight. I also see a hose that isn't connected to anything.
I looked today and it’s the other part of the charcoal canister.
Do I even need to run the charcoal canister?
Replaced the rear sway bar end links because the old bushings looked old and cracked. Might as well with everything out of the way.
Also go the new gas tank installed. Surprisingly, getting it in wasn’t the hardest part. Was about 5 mins of fucking around with the tank on my chest before it kind of just “popped” into place. It’s not a straight drop as there are over hangs on the front and back that force you to kind of wedge it in there. Hardest part was getting the fuel pipe to fuel tank hose onto the molded pipe coming out of the back of the tank. Subframe gives you almost no room to work with, but got it on. Have it all the way butted up to the tank on the top of the hose and about 75% on the bottom. I spent probably 15 mins alone trying to close the remaining gap but just couldn’t give the space and how tight the new hose must be. Thumb started bleeding from my finger nail pressing so hard.
It is however, probably almost and inch past the little ridge on the pipe and am confident that with the hose clamp on it should be fine.
I didn’t hook any other hoses up after because I was spent for the day. I also want to verify that the replacement hose I bought for all the connections is indeed high pressure stuff. Annnnd I didn’t mark two of the hoses that connect around the fuel pump(but aren’t related to), so I’ll have to figure out which is which before plugging them in backwards.
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Every good engine swap project involves mixing up the feed and return lines.
you do not need the charcoal canister. Ir would be best to install a small inline fuel filter on the vent line to keep debris from getting into the vent line, and terminate it away from places that fuel vapors could pose an explosion hazard. Usually the engine bay is fine but i routed mine lower down in the bay. Others terminate it back near the tank under the car
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Got the rest of the plumbing finished up on the driver side. Was going to replace that one crusty pipe but since it's for the charcoal canister and I don't think that's even hooked up, I just left it and hooked it up. Corroded, but didn't see anything structural.
Last bit is to hook this bit up. Thicker line runs to the top of the expansion tank, thinner line runs to the bottom. Does the thin one go to the pipe molded into the tank or to the black plastic one? Black plastic one is the one that runs to the charcoal canister. Or is it the thick one that runs to the molded line?
I would still like to hook them up regardless if the charcoal canister is properly working or not.
New hard lines also installed. Just need to hook them up at the front, but stupidly forgot to label them. Does anyone know which is which in the picture below? Return/feed? Figured I'd ask before removing the intake manifold and everything to take a look. Left is front of the car, right is to the rear of the car.
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Front is supply on an M50, the FPR is at the back of the rail.
Thank you.
Think I found the answer to my expansion tank issue.
I don't why it took so long to find this diagram. My car on RealOEM does not give me this diagram.
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Can't wait to shoot another dowel into the bell housing.
Maybe I was just doing it wrong but getting it in there wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it was. I cut a little bit of that sound deadening foam on the trans tunnel to give me a little more wiggle room.
Kind of want to buy one of those reverse bleeders to bleed this as my first attempt was a failure. Anyone have an experience with something like one of these?
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@patsbimmer1 got it hooked up again for these euro smoked smiley cross hairs. Makes such a huge difference the to the look of the front of the car.
Not concerned about getting the running lights hooked up, just want to get the low and high beams. I knew that the chassis harness and the headlight harness were not plug and play. If anyone has done these before, can I buy a 9005/9006 male plug and spice the chassis harness into the plug?
Also got my other taillight wrapped.
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Yes, get a male connector to splice into the chassis wiring. There is a simple modification you can do to the relay to keep the low beams from turning off when the high beams are on. I can look it up for you if you find out you need it. Any auto parts store will have the headlight connector on hand.
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Yes, get a male connector to splice into the chassis wiring. There is a simple modification you can do to the relay to keep the low beams from turning off when the high beams are on. I can look it up for you if you find out you need it. Any auto parts store will have the headlight connector on hand.
Believe its the 30 and 87 on the relay that need to be jumped.
But thank you.
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Like I mentioned in another thread, just make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir and pump the pedal a few times every 15 minutes or so while doing other things. It will bleed itself by the air rising up to the reservoir. No mess, just watch the bubbles come up into the reservoir. Pumping the pedal once in a while dislodges more air and waiting in between gives it time to rise in the system. You don't need to open the bleed screw at all.
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Like I mentioned in another thread, just make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir and pump the pedal a few times every 15 minutes or so while doing other things. It will bleed itself by the air rising up to the reservoir. No mess, just watch the bubbles come up into the reservoir. Pumping the pedal once in a while dislodges more air and waiting in between gives it time to rise in the system. You don't need to open the bleed screw at all.
Gonna give this bleeder a try, if it doesn't work I will fall back to this.
I also completed my first ever wiring adventure, only had to redo two connectors because I hooked them to the wrong wire...
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Well, used the reverse bleeder and got some pedal feel but not great. Was going to use @jc43089 method of just pumping it a little bit every now and then, pumped it like 5-10 times and the slave shot the dowel out again. Dowel is in the bell housing.
I just don’t understand what I’m doing wrong. Slave was protruding off the bell housing studs before I tightened them down, so I’m figured it was on.
Trans is probably going to have to come off now. Know that’s a bitch and not exactly motivated to do that.
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