Joined the Club Today

[Jdesign]

And for my next act ; "____________________"    - @GunMetalGrey

[GunMetalGrey]

straight6pwr said:

also, i spy a mini keg

Yeah that's my spare bolt bin, maybe someday it will become something cool!

[m42b32]

Did you ever get the condor mounts to sit flat or did you just crank down on them?

[GunMetalGrey]

m42b32 said:

Did you ever get the condor mounts to sit flat or did you just crank down on them?

I used a different set of condor ones that I had laying around. 

I think there was issues with header clearance that may not have been noticed before, as the headers are up against the body. This would certainly cause some issues with motor mounts not wanting to sit quite right.

[HipMF]

Do a burnout.

[GunMetalGrey]

HipMF said:

Do a burnout.

Gimme a few days

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

Gimme a few days  hours

Fixed that for you. Better hurry up.

[SteelBlue]

Not technically first start. @GunMetalGrey working magic to @HipMF's ominous tones music

[GunMetalGrey]

Anyone ever have a CSB break a 3 jaw puller and make a 12ton HF press start leaking fluid past its seals? (Cylinder was leaking before as well in all fairness). It resulted in quite a lot of deflection of the press. 
Debating between taking it to a machine type shop and seeing if they can pop it off, or getting out the grinder and making a mess of it.

[HipMF]

GunMetalGrey said:

Anyone ever have a CSB break a 3 jaw puller and make a 12ton HF press start leaking fluid past its seals? (Cylinder was leaking before as well in all fairness). It resulted in quite a lot of deflection of the press. 
Debating between taking it to a machine type shop and seeing if they can pop it off, or getting out the grinder and making a mess of it. 

Is the whole bearing still there, or just the inner race? Not that it matters much. I would just carefully cut it off. If you're patient, you can cut almost through the race and use a screwdriver or chisel to crack through the little bit of metal that's left and get it off without even a nick in the driveshaft.

[GunMetalGrey]

HipMF said:

Is the whole bearing still there, or just the inner race? Not that it matters much. I would just carefully cut it off. If you're patient, you can cut almost through the race and use a screwdriver or chisel to crack through the little bit of metal that's left and get it off without even a nick in the driveshaft.

Whole bearing is intact yet. 
Only trick to cutting it is that one side sits against a flat face, and trying not to cut that face is going to be tricky as it sits fully against the yoke face.

May try a shop with a press, and if the bearing breaks it will get the inner race cut.

[HipMF]

GunMetalGrey said:

Whole bearing is intact yet. 
Only trick to cutting it is that one side sits against a flat face, and trying not to cut that face is going to be tricky as it sits fully against the yoke face.

May try a shop with a press, and if the bearing breaks it will get the inner race cut. 

You can get tight to the sholder if you cut a spiral. Or just take it to a shop and let them eff it up so you don't have to

[straight6pwr]

maybe stating the obvious here, but have you tried heat? i'd get that bearing red hot

the 3 CSBs (e34 and e30) i've pulled in the last few years came off with a 3-jaw/impact gun

second idea = load up a 3 jaw puller to near the braking point then rap the bearing with as much force as you can to see if the strike pops it loose. autozone/advance auto have some pretty hefty 3-jaws you can rent.

hell just put the bearing against a steel vise or concrete and hit it to try and 'oval' it a bit. i can't see it hurting the steel spindle.

[Jdesign]

I have had this happen before. I ended up cutting into it with an angle grinder on both sides at an angle. Then used a chisel to pry it open and it came right off.

[GunMetalGrey]

Used the torch, stronger 3 jaw, and a 3lb sledge with a piece of bar to slam the thing off. 
It was quite stuck!

[Jdesign]

[HipMF]

Use the slide hammer. I've had good luck fucking shit up with that thing xD

[SteelBlue]

Car is back the garage.

Big thank you to @GunMetalGrey for all the help.

Still have some things to button up on it. Brake booster being the big one. In my stupidity/ignorance, I tore the diaphragm on the booster when I spun the "rod" in it. Have a couple options for purchasing a new one and should be ordered soon. So it has NO brakes right now.

Another issue is the hard fuel lines. It was going back and forth between leaking and not leaking. But when I was letting it idle today for a little it was dripping a bit. Not sure if this will be a spring job or if I'll do it this winter still.

I'm going to be replacing to the clutch line with a braided stainless steel one as the rubber one was getting pinched. Actually got so pinched that it locked the clutch pedal. Had a mini heart attack when we surmised that it might have been something with the clutch being installed wrong, thankfully it was not.

Hopefully Ben can add to this post as I know there will be a few things I will forget.

Probably needs a new tie rod on one side as the nut didn't get tightened all the way down when we were fixing the control arm. It popped out when it was getting moved, potentially damaging it, so for the peace of mind I will be replacing before any major driving.

Was told the weather should be pretty decent next weekend, so I can FINALLY wash and clean up the outside of the car which has been bothering me forever.

Any alignment tips for the hood? One side it lines up okay with the fender, other side has a bigger gap. Gonna be doing some tinkering with it.

[P_Roloff]

Might be the fenders, I think they have a little wiggle room when reinstalling so if they’ve ever been off that could be your problem.

[SteelBlue]

P_Roloff said:

Might be the fenders, I think they have a little wiggle room when reinstalling so if they’ve ever been off that could be your problem. 

Feel like it must be as there’s really no way to horizontally move the hood