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Joined the Club Today

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  • jc43089J
    jc43089J
    jc43089
    wrote on last edited by
    #110

    SteelBlue said:

    This is what it currently looks like. Not sure where to cut to get access that would alleviate the situation. Maybe cutting the top off and then cutting it from the inside? Would like to bet to just unscrew it. Gonna try a pipe wrench, heat, and some PB blaster or something.

    ?ui=2&ik=183ae23c86&view=fimg&th=1649411

    I thought it threaded on the outside, my bad.  Don't pay attention to the e36 guy...

    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

    1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • SteelBlueS
      SteelBlueS
      SteelBlue
      wrote on last edited by
      #111

      straight6pwr said:

      removal of my e34 stuck collars:

      ShUppiy.jpg'

      the wheel/tire is key. you can stand on it while you turn the pipe wrench.

      The wheel is a very good idea. I'll be picking up a pipe wrench on the way home from work, my brother is PB blasting the collars right now to get ahead start. What size pipe wrench by the way? That red one on the ground looks like the Harbor freight one I was looking at.

      Do my eyes deceive me or is the wrench attached to jack handle with duct tape and hose clamps? lol

      Also, would the stock struts be gas ones? Probably not a good idea to use any heat then?

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • JdesignJ
        JdesignJ
        Jdesign
        wrote on last edited by
        #112

        OHHHH that collar. Yeah, what everyone else said.

        SumBunny.jpg

        https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

        🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
        👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
        ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
        🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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        0
        • SteelBlueS
          SteelBlueS
          SteelBlue
          wrote on last edited by
          #113

          Heat is mans best friend. First strut collar went without issue once I got the 24" pipe wrench around it. Second one put up a little more of a fight, heat and a good amount of persuasion and it came off. Anyone have a part number for those collars? The one got pretty chewed in the process of removing. Heat was also a big help in getting the ball joint stud out of the strut hosing.

          zVpn1Zh.jpg

          Once those were out I cleaned them up and got them ready for paint along with the sway bar and subframe. Painting last night:

          bQRuPlP.jpg

          Continued drying out in the sun this morning:

          EcTlwam.jpg

          Today is my birthday(25, getting old), so...

          JFyvDWL.gif

          Not like I haven't already been treating myself with buying this car, an S52, and everything else for it. But that's besides the point...

          I bought this steering wheel. Think it will look really good in the car, especially when I swap the interior to black. Anyone have any steering hub recommendations? This OMP one looks nice.

          oEbQEIC.jpg

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • wasnt m3W
            wasnt m3W
            wasnt m3
            wrote on last edited by
            #114

            I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.

            m3sig-1.jpg

            1 Reply Last reply
            1
            • EarlE
              EarlE
              Earl
              wrote on last edited by
              #115

              wasnt m3 said:

              I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.

              For e36's the omp one actually has rounded pleats but a squared off base where it meets the column. The Momo one has angular pleats but it rounded where it meets the column. I combined the omp rounded boot with my Momo hub to make the hub looks exactly how I wanted in the nice car lol

              museum sig 2earl.jpg

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • wasnt m3W
                wasnt m3W
                wasnt m3
                wrote on last edited by
                #116

                Earl said:

                For e36's the omp one actually has rounded pleats but a squared off base where it meets the column. The Momo one has angular pleats but it rounded where it meets the column. I combined the omp rounded boot with my Momo hub to make the hub looks exactly how I wanted in the nice car lol

                Thanks for the super anal comparison lol

                m3sig-1.jpg

                1 Reply Last reply
                2
                • SteelBlueS
                  SteelBlueS
                  SteelBlue
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #117

                  wasnt m3 said:

                  I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.

                  Nice, likely will order the OMP when I hear back from @patsbimmer1.

                  Does anyone know if these collars will work if I'm not using Bilstein's? Would like to replace mine as they got kind of chewed removing them. Or are these the correct option?

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  1
                  • SteelBlueS
                    SteelBlueS
                    SteelBlue
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #118

                    Made big progress last night. Car is back on the ground. Got the entire front end put together minus the sway bar.

                    Getting the steering rack in was big as I thought that was gonna be a big issue. Brake booster just needs to be moved and then it should be ready for the motor.

                    I was an idiot and didn't realize that JOM provides new collars for the strut housings until I did some research. Was super releived because I didn't have to use the old shitty ones and the fact that they didn't fit and thought I wasn't gonna be able to make any other progress.

                    If you need center a control arm bushing in a lollipop, an E30 brake rotor, some wood, and a hammer works. That also goes for pushing them onto the control arm.

                    This height is with no weight on it, when my buddy got in it lowered a bit but hes probably half the weight of the motor. Big tings soon come.

                    NFV6XRs.jpg

                    7LtCn4g.jpg

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    2
                    • suspencefulS
                      suspencefulS
                      suspenceful
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #119

                      Lookin' good! Knowing you, I'm surprised you haven't scrubbed the engine bay clean yet.

                      🎬 YouTube channel (60K+ subs): youtube.com/jakespence135
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                      1
                      • YoungCRY
                        YoungCRY
                        YoungCR
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #120

                        Wheels look good! This thing is coming along nicely 👍🏼

                        Chris Young
                        BMWCCA #458972
                        1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlue
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #121

                          suspenceful said:

                          Lookin' good! Knowing you, I'm surprised you haven't scrubbed the engine bay clean yet.

                          I’m probably gonna wheel it out to scrub it down soon after I move the brake booster. I did an inital spray down before doing work on it, but it was just to remove the main grease and what not. I think they’re some brackets that I can cut and shave as well.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          2
                          • SteelBlueS
                            SteelBlueS
                            SteelBlue
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #122

                            image.png

                            Is there anywhere I can buy these boots for the caliper guide without buying the kit? Really don't want to spend $30 on some bolts...

                            Mine are torn at the bottom, so they don't seal at the bottom but sill cover the exposed portion of the guide pin. Do I need new ones?

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • JdesignJ
                              JdesignJ
                              Jdesign
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #123

                              SteelBlue said:

                              image.png

                              Is there anywhere I can buy these boots for the caliper guide without buying the kit? Really don't want to spend $30 on some bolts...

                              Mine are torn at the bottom, so they don't seal at the bottom but sill cover the exposed portion of the guide pin. Do I need new ones?

                              If they are torn anywhere, I would assume that over time water and or debris will find its way. On the other hand, those are not oem E30 caliper boots, as they are normally straight with a plastic end cap. Like these:

                              https://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-Brake-Caliper-Guide-Pin-Boot-Kit-For-1998-BMW-528i-USA/251698410124?epid=1952015160&hash=item3a9a64f28c%3Ag%3AWW4AAOSwh1paHdGm&_sacat=0&_nkw=E30+caliper+boots&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0

                              SumBunny.jpg

                              https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                              🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                              👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                              ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                              🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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                              0
                              • GunMetalGreyG
                                GunMetalGreyG
                                GunMetalGrey
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #124

                                ^I've seen them both ways on E30's. 
                                Not sure if the picture was ever OEM though. 
                                Both work

                                ...

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • m42b32M
                                  m42b32M
                                  m42b32
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #125

                                  The boots and double bolt setup were found on Girling calipers: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p-5720-tms349099/

                                  And the straight tube with the plastic end cap are from the ATE calipers: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p-3103-caliper-front-left-new-e30-318i-325e-325i-only-for-cars-with-ate-calipers/

                                  Both were OEM though I don't know if there was ever a definite split on when either one was used, I had Girling calipers on my 318is with that accordion style boot.

                                  1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                                  0
                                  • SteelBlueS
                                    SteelBlueS
                                    SteelBlue
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #126

                                    Jdesign said:

                                    If they are torn anywhere, I would assume that over time water and or debris will find its way. On the other hand, those are not oem E30 caliper boots, as they are normally straight with a plastic end cap. Like these:

                                    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-Brake-Caliper-Guide-Pin-Boot-Kit-For-1998-BMW-528i-USA/251698410124?epid=1952015160&hash=item3a9a64f28c%3Ag%3AWW4AAOSwh1paHdGm&_sacat=0&_nkw=E30+caliper+boots&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0

                                    I ended up buying one kit for the side with the torn boots. These are what the boots looked like on the front calipers.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • SteelBlueS
                                      SteelBlueS
                                      SteelBlue
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #127

                                      My fronts are the Girlings and my rears are the plastic end cap with hex head guide bolts...

                                      In other news, the car is almost ready for the motor. I took the brakes and brackets off front and back, wire wheeled them and painted them black. Installed with new pads and new rotors. Did not take any pictures of this process, will update when I install the front sway bar, just waiting on the new brackets for the bushings because the ones on the car were falling apart.

                                      Last bit to do is relocate the brake booster. Idk why, but I'm nervous about this part. But I felt the same about the steering rack, just need to do some more research. Or just shave the intake manifold...

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • GunMetalGreyG
                                        GunMetalGreyG
                                        GunMetalGrey
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #128

                                        SteelBlue said:

                                        Last bit to do is relocate the brake booster. Idk why, but I'm nervous about this part. But I felt the same about the steering rack, just need to do some more research. Or just shave the intake manifold...

                                        Shaving the intake manifold won't be enough to clear the booster unfortunately. 
                                        If you don't want to drill things you can source an IX booster or a few others and bolt them in.

                                        ...

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • JdesignJ
                                          JdesignJ
                                          Jdesign
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #129

                                          GunMetalGrey said:

                                          Shaving the intake manifold won't be enough to clear the booster unfortunately. 
                                          If you don't want to drill things you can source an IX booster or a few others and bolt them in. 

                                          This^

                                          Be careful shaving the manifold. I know a lot of people have been able to get away with this, but I also know a close friend of mine had his intake crack from being shaved. The motor moved just enough to bump the master and push into the intake manifold and it cracked from being thin.

                                          SumBunny.jpg

                                          https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                                          🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                                          👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                                          ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                                          🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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