Joined the Club Today
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Heat is mans best friend. First strut collar went without issue once I got the 24" pipe wrench around it. Second one put up a little more of a fight, heat and a good amount of persuasion and it came off. Anyone have a part number for those collars? The one got pretty chewed in the process of removing. Heat was also a big help in getting the ball joint stud out of the strut hosing.
Once those were out I cleaned them up and got them ready for paint along with the sway bar and subframe. Painting last night:
Continued drying out in the sun this morning:
Today is my birthday(25, getting old), so...
Not like I haven't already been treating myself with buying this car, an S52, and everything else for it. But that's besides the point...
I bought this steering wheel. Think it will look really good in the car, especially when I swap the interior to black. Anyone have any steering hub recommendations? This OMP one looks nice.
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I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.
For e36's the omp one actually has rounded pleats but a squared off base where it meets the column. The Momo one has angular pleats but it rounded where it meets the column. I combined the omp rounded boot with my Momo hub to make the hub looks exactly how I wanted in the nice car lol
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For e36's the omp one actually has rounded pleats but a squared off base where it meets the column. The Momo one has angular pleats but it rounded where it meets the column. I combined the omp rounded boot with my Momo hub to make the hub looks exactly how I wanted in the nice car lol
Thanks for the super anal comparison lol
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I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.
Nice, likely will order the OMP when I hear back from @patsbimmer1.
Does anyone know if these collars will work if I'm not using Bilstein's? Would like to replace mine as they got kind of chewed removing them. Or are these the correct option?
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Made big progress last night. Car is back on the ground. Got the entire front end put together minus the sway bar.
Getting the steering rack in was big as I thought that was gonna be a big issue. Brake booster just needs to be moved and then it should be ready for the motor.
I was an idiot and didn't realize that JOM provides new collars for the strut housings until I did some research. Was super releived because I didn't have to use the old shitty ones and the fact that they didn't fit and thought I wasn't gonna be able to make any other progress.
If you need center a control arm bushing in a lollipop, an E30 brake rotor, some wood, and a hammer works. That also goes for pushing them onto the control arm.
This height is with no weight on it, when my buddy got in it lowered a bit but hes probably half the weight of the motor. Big tings soon come.
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Lookin' good! Knowing you, I'm surprised you haven't scrubbed the engine bay clean yet.
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Lookin' good! Knowing you, I'm surprised you haven't scrubbed the engine bay clean yet.
I’m probably gonna wheel it out to scrub it down soon after I move the brake booster. I did an inital spray down before doing work on it, but it was just to remove the main grease and what not. I think they’re some brackets that I can cut and shave as well.
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Is there anywhere I can buy these boots for the caliper guide without buying the kit? Really don't want to spend $30 on some bolts...
Mine are torn at the bottom, so they don't seal at the bottom but sill cover the exposed portion of the guide pin. Do I need new ones?
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Is there anywhere I can buy these boots for the caliper guide without buying the kit? Really don't want to spend $30 on some bolts...
Mine are torn at the bottom, so they don't seal at the bottom but sill cover the exposed portion of the guide pin. Do I need new ones?
If they are torn anywhere, I would assume that over time water and or debris will find its way. On the other hand, those are not oem E30 caliper boots, as they are normally straight with a plastic end cap. Like these:
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
^I've seen them both ways on E30's.
Not sure if the picture was ever OEM though.
Both work -
The boots and double bolt setup were found on Girling calipers: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p-5720-tms349099/
And the straight tube with the plastic end cap are from the ATE calipers: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p-3103-caliper-front-left-new-e30-318i-325e-325i-only-for-cars-with-ate-calipers/
Both were OEM though I don't know if there was ever a definite split on when either one was used, I had Girling calipers on my 318is with that accordion style boot.
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If they are torn anywhere, I would assume that over time water and or debris will find its way. On the other hand, those are not oem E30 caliper boots, as they are normally straight with a plastic end cap. Like these:
I ended up buying one kit for the side with the torn boots. These are what the boots looked like on the front calipers.
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My fronts are the Girlings and my rears are the plastic end cap with hex head guide bolts...
In other news, the car is almost ready for the motor. I took the brakes and brackets off front and back, wire wheeled them and painted them black. Installed with new pads and new rotors. Did not take any pictures of this process, will update when I install the front sway bar, just waiting on the new brackets for the bushings because the ones on the car were falling apart.
Last bit to do is relocate the brake booster. Idk why, but I'm nervous about this part. But I felt the same about the steering rack, just need to do some more research. Or just shave the intake manifold...
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Last bit to do is relocate the brake booster. Idk why, but I'm nervous about this part. But I felt the same about the steering rack, just need to do some more research. Or just shave the intake manifold...
Shaving the intake manifold won't be enough to clear the booster unfortunately.
If you don't want to drill things you can source an IX booster or a few others and bolt them in. -
Shaving the intake manifold won't be enough to clear the booster unfortunately.
If you don't want to drill things you can source an IX booster or a few others and bolt them in.This^
Be careful shaving the manifold. I know a lot of people have been able to get away with this, but I also know a close friend of mine had his intake crack from being shaved. The motor moved just enough to bump the master and push into the intake manifold and it cracked from being thin.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
This^
Be careful shaving the manifold. I know a lot of people have been able to get away with this, but I also know a close friend of mine had his intake crack from being shaved. The motor moved just enough to bump the master and push into the intake manifold and it cracked from being thin.
Yeah, I definitely won't be doing that.
Shaving the intake manifold won't be enough to clear the booster unfortunately.
If you don't want to drill things you can source an IX booster or a few others and bolt them in.I hear brake pedal can feel kind of mushy then going with the IX or 944 booster? Also additional modifications that need to be done.
What have other people done that have done 24V swaps here?
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Yeah, I definitely won't be doing that.
I hear brake pedal can feel kind of mushy then going with the IX or 944 booster? Also additional modifications that need to be done.
What have other people done that have done 24V swaps here?
I dunno, I ran the IX booster and did the soft + hard lines and the pedal was rock solid. Felt fantastic.
IX booster was intended for that chassis so I don't know why it would feel soft. -
Maybe a dumb question but do you use the IX booster with it's master cylinder? The smaller booster maybe has smaller master cylinder pistons so that the pedal pressure is similar. Or maybe the smaller booster is a double diaphragm? This could be a reason people have mixed results because some mix and match those parts.
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