Joined the Club Today
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The collars on my strut towers were pretty stuck, and a channel locks just chewed up the outside flange, didn't have a big enough pipe wrench, and I was scared to do any cutting. I secured housings in a bench vice so that they couldn't rotate, and used a chisel punch and a BFH after some extensive PB blaster soaking. You can get the corner of the punch into one of the holes on the collar nut, point it in the direction that your hammering will unscrew it, and then it should break loose with a few good whacks.
I will have to double check, but the collar didn’t look like it have any holes or anything in it. Just like a thin hex pattern on the top of threaded part. I saw a video of someone doing the hammer method, but it looked like the collar had a groove in it that was design for that.
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removal of my e34 stuck collars:
'the wheel/tire is key. you can stand on it while you turn the pipe wrench.
Dan
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removal of my e34 stuck collars:
'the wheel/tire is key. you can stand on it why you turn the pipe wrench.
That's a really good idea with the wheel attached! No chance for damaging the strut by clamping it in something either
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This is what it currently looks like. Not sure where to cut to get access that would alleviate the situation. Maybe cutting the top off and then cutting it from the inside? Would like to bet to just unscrew it. Gonna try a pipe wrench, heat, and some PB blaster or something.
I thought it threaded on the outside, my bad. Don't pay attention to the e36 guy...
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removal of my e34 stuck collars:
'the wheel/tire is key. you can stand on it while you turn the pipe wrench.
The wheel is a very good idea. I'll be picking up a pipe wrench on the way home from work, my brother is PB blasting the collars right now to get ahead start. What size pipe wrench by the way? That red one on the ground looks like the Harbor freight one I was looking at.
Do my eyes deceive me or is the wrench attached to jack handle with duct tape and hose clamps? lol
Also, would the stock struts be gas ones? Probably not a good idea to use any heat then?
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OHHHH that collar. Yeah, what everyone else said.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Heat is mans best friend. First strut collar went without issue once I got the 24" pipe wrench around it. Second one put up a little more of a fight, heat and a good amount of persuasion and it came off. Anyone have a part number for those collars? The one got pretty chewed in the process of removing. Heat was also a big help in getting the ball joint stud out of the strut hosing.
Once those were out I cleaned them up and got them ready for paint along with the sway bar and subframe. Painting last night:
Continued drying out in the sun this morning:
Today is my birthday(25, getting old), so...
Not like I haven't already been treating myself with buying this car, an S52, and everything else for it. But that's besides the point...
I bought this steering wheel. Think it will look really good in the car, especially when I swap the interior to black. Anyone have any steering hub recommendations? This OMP one looks nice.
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I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.
For e36's the omp one actually has rounded pleats but a squared off base where it meets the column. The Momo one has angular pleats but it rounded where it meets the column. I combined the omp rounded boot with my Momo hub to make the hub looks exactly how I wanted in the nice car lol
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For e36's the omp one actually has rounded pleats but a squared off base where it meets the column. The Momo one has angular pleats but it rounded where it meets the column. I combined the omp rounded boot with my Momo hub to make the hub looks exactly how I wanted in the nice car lol
Thanks for the super anal comparison lol
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I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.
Nice, likely will order the OMP when I hear back from @patsbimmer1.
Does anyone know if these collars will work if I'm not using Bilstein's? Would like to replace mine as they got kind of chewed removing them. Or are these the correct option?
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Made big progress last night. Car is back on the ground. Got the entire front end put together minus the sway bar.
Getting the steering rack in was big as I thought that was gonna be a big issue. Brake booster just needs to be moved and then it should be ready for the motor.
I was an idiot and didn't realize that JOM provides new collars for the strut housings until I did some research. Was super releived because I didn't have to use the old shitty ones and the fact that they didn't fit and thought I wasn't gonna be able to make any other progress.
If you need center a control arm bushing in a lollipop, an E30 brake rotor, some wood, and a hammer works. That also goes for pushing them onto the control arm.
This height is with no weight on it, when my buddy got in it lowered a bit but hes probably half the weight of the motor. Big tings soon come.
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Lookin' good! Knowing you, I'm surprised you haven't scrubbed the engine bay clean yet.
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Lookin' good! Knowing you, I'm surprised you haven't scrubbed the engine bay clean yet.
I’m probably gonna wheel it out to scrub it down soon after I move the brake booster. I did an inital spray down before doing work on it, but it was just to remove the main grease and what not. I think they’re some brackets that I can cut and shave as well.
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Is there anywhere I can buy these boots for the caliper guide without buying the kit? Really don't want to spend $30 on some bolts...
Mine are torn at the bottom, so they don't seal at the bottom but sill cover the exposed portion of the guide pin. Do I need new ones?
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Is there anywhere I can buy these boots for the caliper guide without buying the kit? Really don't want to spend $30 on some bolts...
Mine are torn at the bottom, so they don't seal at the bottom but sill cover the exposed portion of the guide pin. Do I need new ones?
If they are torn anywhere, I would assume that over time water and or debris will find its way. On the other hand, those are not oem E30 caliper boots, as they are normally straight with a plastic end cap. Like these:
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
^I've seen them both ways on E30's.
Not sure if the picture was ever OEM though.
Both work -
The boots and double bolt setup were found on Girling calipers: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p-5720-tms349099/
And the straight tube with the plastic end cap are from the ATE calipers: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p-3103-caliper-front-left-new-e30-318i-325e-325i-only-for-cars-with-ate-calipers/
Both were OEM though I don't know if there was ever a definite split on when either one was used, I had Girling calipers on my 318is with that accordion style boot.
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If they are torn anywhere, I would assume that over time water and or debris will find its way. On the other hand, those are not oem E30 caliper boots, as they are normally straight with a plastic end cap. Like these:
I ended up buying one kit for the side with the torn boots. These are what the boots looked like on the front calipers.
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