E30 M52

B C

jc43089 said:

FYI you can use an 80/88C fan switch. Plug and play.61 31 8 361 787

Thanks for the part number. I dont want the fan to be running until its above normal operating temperature so the 91/99C is my choice. I will hang onto the part number for future use in case this doesnt work out

jc43089

Keep in mind that switch is on the cool end of the radiator. I have used one for a long time and the fan does not run unless sitting in hot temps for quite a while. That is measuring the temp of the coolant right before it goes into the engine to cool it. Not the temp coming out of the engine. I wouldn't want much hotter than that returning to the engine 80C/88C (176/190F). On my gray car I had a Stewart water pump, 88C thermostat and 80/88C fan switch and no mechanical fan, I don't think the fan ever ran on high, and low only occasionally in heavy traffic. I had an Autometer temp gauge with the sender in the head. The highest temps I ever saw were right around 210F, Usually it was about 195F. I would use that setup again, very pleased with it. Just my 2 cents.

B C

your experience is very appreciated. Sounds like I should probably start off with the 91C trigger and visit a Chick-Fil-A drive thru on a Friday lunch hour in July to see how things fare.

KaiserRolls

I just turn mine on when I stop in traffic or in a Conga line during autox (which are the worst things ever)

AsparagusMike

jc43089 said:

On my gray car I had a Stewart water pump, 88C thermostat and 80/88C fan switch and no mechanical fan, I don't think the fan ever ran on high, and low only occasionally in heavy traffic. I had an Autometer temp gauge with the sender in the head. The highest temps I ever saw were right around 210F, Usually it was about 195F. I would use that setup again, very pleased with it. Just my 2 cents.

I'm doing that same setup in mine as well.

B C

I have just a little bit more than a duct tape for ground clearance

Some more wiring harness routing, cleanup, and adding weatherpack connectors to a few things. I still need some fog light connectors but everything else is connected and working

I adjusted the throttle cable and am now off to find a vac cap for the charcoal canister inlet on the throttle body

Jdesign

YASSSS

B C

last night I finally ran a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body for the crankcase ventilation. Just some oil resistant trans fluid line. Im not a fan of how loose and wobbly the valve cover fitting is. Kaiser showed me the machined aftermarket version which i will probably buy later on.

The throttle body was reinstalled after capping the purge valve port. The last thing I need to do in the engine bay is make a bracket for my oil dipstick tube so that it isnt flailing around.

Once I get the brake booster stud situation resolved (stripped stud #2, now on the interior side of the booster) I can bleed the hydraulics and the car will be drivable. The exhaust still isnt finished but im still debating on whether to drive it to Mr. Rawson to finish it up or to do it on my own.

Jdesign

What do you need for exhaust work?

B C

mainly to fab a section under the rear subframe, some hangers, and to mate up the mid section with my new y-pipe that comes off the headers.

I am going to spread good vibes to the world and push the car out into the driveway to give myself more room and light to work on the last few things. That way we will suddenly have the biggest blizzard ever, or more of this awesome weather like we are having today. Cant say for sure until I move it. The only trouble is with the slope of the driveway i wont be able to move it back into the garage unless its under its own power so that means I need to get the hydraulic situation resolved soon.

B C

Huge progress!!!!

Just kidding.

Plates.

Plate frames.

Blue screw covers because I saw them at the hardware store while getting new screws.

Neat.

B C

Another bite-sized update. Spent an hour under the dash and repaired the brake pedal connector that broke, thanks Chris!

I was able to get the new clutch feed hose through the firewall! I routed it through an existing firewall plug just behind the strut tower. Its a much better angle for the whole thing and I think BMW should have routed it this way from the factory. In case you missed it, The e21 booster sits closer to the firewall and pinched the clutch feed hose in its original location.
I am still fighting to get the feed hose back onto the clutch master but im sure I just need to give it 5 more minutes of wrestling.

Once the clutch master is back in place I will work on the booster mounting stud that is spinning.

The goal is to have this booster debacle behind me and the hydraulics bled by Saturday, and be able to focus next week on the exhaust.

The brake booster has been the biggest hassle of this swap (im trying not to think about the M3 cam swap and all the helicoils
involved)

GunMetalGrey

El Snapo said:

I was able to get the new clutch feed hose through the firewall! I routed it through an existing firewall plug just behind the strut tower. Its a much better angle for the whole thing and I think BMW should have routed it this way from the factory. In case you missed it, The e21 booster sits closer to the firewall and pinched the clutch feed hose in its original location.
I am still fighting to get the feed hose back onto the clutch master but im sure I just need to give it 5 more minutes of wrestling.

People complain about all kinds of jobs on these cars, but I think I can say that hands down this is one of my least favorite things to do. With a new master cylinder and barb it takes quite a bit of force to seat, and it is in such a bad spot for your hands.
May the force be with you.

B C

Master cylinder feed line is in!
Brake booster stud is taken care of and the booster is snugged down!

So if you have done a z3/e36 rack swap in an airbag equipped e30 you may know about how the steering shaft rubs on the firewall and the firewall opening needs to be clearanced a bit.

I did that many years ago and all was well but i realized a couple months back that the rubber firewall boot isnt fitting and i need to clearance the firewall a bit more. So I did that but the way the boot fits isnt quite as air tight as it is supposed to be and that bothers me. I need to come up with a solution for this boot. Maybe not this year, but sometime.

I disassembled the pedal area quite a bit but once its back together under there I can bleed the brakes and clutch!!!

m42b32

Nice!!

How did you fix the booster stud?

For the Z3 rack on my car, I notched the firewall and then made a new plate similar to the stock one that holds the boot, but with the hole offset downwards to accommodate the new angle of the shaft. The boot seals up pretty well with the new plate

B C

m42b32 said:

Nice!!

How did you fix the booster stud?

For the Z3 rack on my car, I notched the firewall and then made a new plate similar to the stock one that holds the boot, but with the hole offset downwards to accommodate the new angle of the shaft. The boot seals up pretty well with the new plate

I used a long screwdriver levered up against the bottom left nut to give the top left stud more friction to resist turning then replaced the oval locknut with a thin hex nut/jam nut

so there is less friction when tightening it down and its holding just fine.

Would you be able to get a measurement of the original hole size on the firewall plate sometime? I will have to make a plate like you did as a future project

Jdesign

snap said:

So if you have done a z3/e36 rack swap in an airbag equipped e30 you may know about how the steering shaft rubs on the firewall and the firewall opening needs to be clearanced a bit.

I did that many years ago and all was well but i realized a couple months back that the rubber firewall boot isnt fitting and i need to clearance the firewall a bit more. So I did that but the way the boot fits isnt quite as air tight as it is supposed to be and that bothers me. I need to come up with a solution for this boot. Maybe not this year, but sometime.

I had this same problem and was just able to move everything over. BUT now I am also revisiting the area and will need to change the boot for the Z4 rack and non-airbag column. I might mold some extra Boots or look for alternatives if you are interested.

Then again there is always one of these too...

Related image

B C

Thanks for posting that. I may have to try one of those if i dont have success with a new firewall plate

m42b32

snap said:

Would you be able to get a measurement of the original hole size on the firewall plate sometime? I will have to make a plate like you did as a future project

I originally tried modifying the existing plate, but then the hole was too big and the boot wouldn't stay so I traced the pattern, cut the new one, and then threw the old one out. I might have the one from the sedan I took apart though, I will try and find it!

B C

Pedal assemblies are all back together and while I was at it I removed the cruise control clutch switch and used the bracket for a clutch pedal return spring.

The brakes are all bled. I usually bleed them again after driving for a bit so I will probably do it again after my first shakedown run. I couldn’t find my 7mm wrench in order to bleed the clutch so I still need to do that in order to drive the car.

The hood is installed.

The list is now:

-finish exhaust

-make oil dipstick mounting bracket

-mount ecu/make bracket

-bleed clutch

-change trans oil for good luck

-bleed coolant

-top off fluids

-install hvac panel

WIBIMMERS

E30 M52