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E30 M52

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  • HipMFH
    HipMFH
    HipMF
    wrote on last edited by
    #415

    Nice trick you did there with the license plate hardware. Looks good.

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • B
      B
      B C
      wrote on last edited by
      #416

      I replaced some headlight bulb connectors that had broken tabs and finished wiring the fan with the stock temp switch and relays

      c1ebae51262f98f7770b7ebb7a952ee8.jpg

      Some of you may be uncomfortable with my 92 C thermostat and 99 C fan switch. I have some extra weatherpack connectors that i will wire in to the fan switch harness so i can change the fan to kick on at 91 C if I need to

      1 Reply Last reply
      1
      • jc43089J
        jc43089J
        jc43089
        wrote on last edited by
        #417

        FYI you can use an 80/88C fan switch.  Plug and play.61 31 8 361 787

        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • i_love_carsI
          i_love_carsI
          i_love_cars
          wrote on last edited by
          #418

          let me know if you need any help crossing the finish line this week/weekend.

          IMG6593.jpg

          2011 E92 M3 6MT ZCP - ESS 625 supercharged
          2007 Z4MR 
          2003 E39 M5
          2002 E46 M3
          2021 X5 40i

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          • B
            B
            B C
            wrote on last edited by
            #419

            jc43089 said:

            FYI you can use an 80/88C fan switch.  Plug and play.61 31 8 361 787

            Thanks for the part number. I dont want the fan to be running until its above normal operating temperature so the 91/99C is my choice. I will hang onto the part number for future use in case this doesnt work out

            1 Reply Last reply
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            • jc43089J
              jc43089J
              jc43089
              wrote on last edited by
              #420

              Keep in mind that switch is on the cool end of the radiator.  I have used one for a long time and the fan does not run unless sitting in hot temps for quite a while.  That is measuring the temp of the coolant right before it goes into the engine to cool it.  Not the temp coming out of the engine.  I wouldn't want much hotter than that returning to the engine 80C/88C (176/190F).  On my gray car I had a Stewart water pump, 88C thermostat and 80/88C fan switch and no mechanical fan, I don't think the fan ever ran on high, and low only occasionally in heavy traffic.  I had an Autometer temp gauge with the sender in the head.  The highest temps I ever saw were right around 210F, Usually it was about 195F.  I would use that setup again, very pleased with it.  Just my 2 cents.

              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

              1 Reply Last reply
              2
              • B
                B
                B C
                wrote on last edited by
                #421

                your experience is very appreciated. Sounds like I should probably start off with the 91C trigger and visit a Chick-Fil-A drive thru on a Friday lunch hour in July to see how things fare.

                1 Reply Last reply
                3
                • KaiserRollsK
                  KaiserRollsK
                  KaiserRolls
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #422

                  I just turn mine on when I stop in traffic or in a Conga line during autox (which are the worst things ever)

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  1
                  • AsparagusMikeA
                    AsparagusMikeA
                    AsparagusMike
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #423

                    jc43089 said:

                     On my gray car I had a Stewart water pump, 88C thermostat and 80/88C fan switch and no mechanical fan, I don't think the fan ever ran on high, and low only occasionally in heavy traffic.  I had an Autometer temp gauge with the sender in the head.  The highest temps I ever saw were right around 210F, Usually it was about 195F.  I would use that setup again, very pleased with it.  Just my 2 cents.

                    I'm doing that same setup in mine as well.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • B
                      B
                      B C
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #424

                      I have just a little bit more than a duct tape for ground clearance

                      557a52c59e6dff59e83002b8c0eaade9.jpg

                      Some more wiring harness routing, cleanup, and adding weatherpack connectors to a few things. I still need some fog light connectors but everything else is connected and working

                      a12e575cbc494e3f135ff345658e83a9.jpg

                      I adjusted the throttle cable and am now off to find a vac cap for the charcoal canister inlet on the throttle body

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      5
                      • JdesignJ
                        JdesignJ
                        Jdesign
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #425

                        YASSSS

                        SumBunny.jpg

                        https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                        🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                        👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                        ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                        🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • B
                          B
                          B C
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #426

                          last night I finally ran a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body for the crankcase ventilation. Just some oil resistant trans fluid line. Im not a fan of how loose and wobbly the valve cover fitting is. Kaiser showed me the machined aftermarket version which i will probably buy later on. 

                          The throttle body was reinstalled after capping the purge valve port. The last thing I need to do in the engine bay is make a bracket for my oil dipstick tube so that it isnt flailing around.

                          Once I get the brake booster stud situation resolved (stripped stud #2, now on the interior side of the booster) I can bleed the hydraulics and the car will be drivable. The exhaust still isnt finished but im still debating on whether to drive it to Mr. Rawson to finish it up or to do it on my own.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • JdesignJ
                            JdesignJ
                            Jdesign
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #427

                            What do you need for exhaust work?

                            SumBunny.jpg

                            https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                            🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                            👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                            ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                            🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • B
                              B
                              B C
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #428

                              mainly to fab a section under the rear subframe, some hangers, and to mate up the mid section with my new y-pipe that comes off the headers.

                              I am going to spread good vibes to the world and push the car out into the driveway to give myself more room and light to work on the last few things. That way we will suddenly have the biggest blizzard ever, or more of this awesome weather like we are having today. Cant say for sure until I move it. The only trouble is with the slope of the driveway i wont be able to move it back into the garage unless its under its own power so that means I need to get the hydraulic situation resolved soon.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • B
                                B
                                B C
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #429

                                Huge progress!!!!

                                Just kidding.

                                036b83bec0b573025fbdd2033afa0d79.jpg

                                Plates.

                                Plate frames.

                                Blue screw covers because I saw them at the hardware store while getting new screws.

                                Neat.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                2
                                • B
                                  B
                                  B C
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #430

                                  Another bite-sized update. Spent an hour under the dash and repaired the brake pedal connector that broke, thanks Chris!

                                  8a8c09e167fe6b0778abced5f751dede.jpg

                                  I was able to get the new clutch feed hose through the firewall! I routed it through an existing firewall plug just behind the strut tower. Its a much better angle for the whole thing and I think BMW should have routed it this way from the factory. In case you missed it, The e21 booster sits closer to the firewall and pinched the clutch feed hose in its original location.
                                  I am still fighting to get the feed hose back onto the clutch master but im sure I just need to give it 5 more minutes of wrestling.

                                  Once the clutch master is back in place I will work on the booster mounting stud that is spinning.

                                  The goal is to have this booster debacle behind me and the hydraulics bled by Saturday, and be able to focus next week on the exhaust.

                                  The brake booster has been the biggest hassle of this swap (im trying not to think about the M3 cam swap and all the helicoils
                                  involved)

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • GunMetalGreyG
                                    GunMetalGreyG
                                    GunMetalGrey
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #431

                                    El Snapo said:

                                    I was able to get the new clutch feed hose through the firewall! I routed it through an existing firewall plug just behind the strut tower. Its a much better angle for the whole thing and I think BMW should have routed it this way from the factory. In case you missed it, The e21 booster sits closer to the firewall and pinched the clutch feed hose in its original location.
                                    I am still fighting to get the feed hose back onto the clutch master but im sure I just need to give it 5 more minutes of wrestling.

                                    People complain about all kinds of jobs on these cars, but I think I can say that hands down this is one of my least favorite things to do. With a new master cylinder and barb it takes quite a bit of force to seat, and it is in such a bad spot for your hands. 
                                    May the force be with you.

                                    ...

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                                    0
                                    • B
                                      B
                                      B C
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #432

                                      Master cylinder feed line is in!
                                      Brake booster stud is taken care of and the booster is snugged down!

                                      So if you have done a z3/e36 rack swap in an airbag equipped e30 you may know about how the steering shaft rubs on the firewall and the firewall opening needs to be clearanced a bit.

                                      I did that many years ago and all was well but i realized a couple months back that the rubber firewall boot isnt fitting and i need to clearance the firewall a bit more. So I did that but the way the boot fits isnt quite as air tight as it is supposed to be and that bothers me. I need to come up with a solution for this boot. Maybe not this year, but sometime.

                                      I disassembled the pedal area quite a bit but once its back together under there I can bleed the brakes and clutch!!!

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      2
                                      • m42b32M
                                        m42b32M
                                        m42b32
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #433

                                        Nice!!

                                        How did you fix the booster stud?

                                        For the Z3 rack on my car, I notched the firewall and then made a new plate similar to the stock one that holds the boot, but with the hole offset downwards to accommodate the new angle of the shaft. The boot seals up pretty well with the new plate

                                        1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • B
                                          B
                                          B C
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #434

                                          m42b32 said:

                                          Nice!!

                                          How did you fix the booster stud?

                                          For the Z3 rack on my car, I notched the firewall and then made a new plate similar to the stock one that holds the boot, but with the hole offset downwards to accommodate the new angle of the shaft. The boot seals up pretty well with the new plate

                                          b37a9df9637bd0dc8fd7d6cad49a5fec.jpg

                                          I used a long screwdriver levered up against the bottom left nut to give the top left stud more friction to resist turning then replaced the oval locknut with a thin hex nut/jam nut

                                          so there is less friction when tightening it down and its holding just fine.

                                          Would you be able to get a measurement of the original hole size on the firewall plate sometime? I will have to make a plate like you did as a future project

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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