E30 M52

[B C]

Horns were destructed by my former 17x9 stancebro wheel and tire setup

I installed replacements and once again have functional beepers

These original cable holders are good (top)

But after so many years they are crumbling and I would rather have something more conventional like zip ties so I bought some license plate frame hardware and a cable tie mount (bottom)

I installed the new fog lights and brake ducts I got from gunmetalben. i didnt have them when I had the turbo setup because charge pipes and an intercooler said “no”.

I will need to get some upgraded bulbs. The last set of foglights i had retrofitted to 2300K HIDs but the lenses are all gone to hell and im okay with a warm LED or halogen bulb this time

The bumper and valence are also installed.

I had to unbend a lower mounting bracket that i couldnt use for the last couple years because charge pipes and an intercooler said “no”.

The front end of my car is still rock chip city. I dont really mind it as long as it doesnt start rusting. I’d like to think next winter after a successful 3 seasons of driving that I will so something to make an improvement in the aesthetics department

I still have the exhaust and the stupid brake booster situation to tend to then just cleaning up the interior a bit and connecting a few small things and im ready to rock!

[HipMF]

Nice trick you did there with the license plate hardware. Looks good.

[B C]

I replaced some headlight bulb connectors that had broken tabs and finished wiring the fan with the stock temp switch and relays

Some of you may be uncomfortable with my 92 C thermostat and 99 C fan switch. I have some extra weatherpack connectors that i will wire in to the fan switch harness so i can change the fan to kick on at 91 C if I need to

[jc43089]

FYI you can use an 80/88C fan switch.  Plug and play.61 31 8 361 787

[i_love_cars]

let me know if you need any help crossing the finish line this week/weekend.

[B C]

jc43089 said:

FYI you can use an 80/88C fan switch.  Plug and play.61 31 8 361 787

Thanks for the part number. I dont want the fan to be running until its above normal operating temperature so the 91/99C is my choice. I will hang onto the part number for future use in case this doesnt work out

[jc43089]

Keep in mind that switch is on the cool end of the radiator.  I have used one for a long time and the fan does not run unless sitting in hot temps for quite a while.  That is measuring the temp of the coolant right before it goes into the engine to cool it.  Not the temp coming out of the engine.  I wouldn't want much hotter than that returning to the engine 80C/88C (176/190F).  On my gray car I had a Stewart water pump, 88C thermostat and 80/88C fan switch and no mechanical fan, I don't think the fan ever ran on high, and low only occasionally in heavy traffic.  I had an Autometer temp gauge with the sender in the head.  The highest temps I ever saw were right around 210F, Usually it was about 195F.  I would use that setup again, very pleased with it.  Just my 2 cents.

[B C]

your experience is very appreciated. Sounds like I should probably start off with the 91C trigger and visit a Chick-Fil-A drive thru on a Friday lunch hour in July to see how things fare.

[KaiserRolls]

I just turn mine on when I stop in traffic or in a Conga line during autox (which are the worst things ever)

[AsparagusMike]

jc43089 said:

 On my gray car I had a Stewart water pump, 88C thermostat and 80/88C fan switch and no mechanical fan, I don't think the fan ever ran on high, and low only occasionally in heavy traffic.  I had an Autometer temp gauge with the sender in the head.  The highest temps I ever saw were right around 210F, Usually it was about 195F.  I would use that setup again, very pleased with it.  Just my 2 cents.

I'm doing that same setup in mine as well.

[B C]

I have just a little bit more than a duct tape for ground clearance

Some more wiring harness routing, cleanup, and adding weatherpack connectors to a few things. I still need some fog light connectors but everything else is connected and working

I adjusted the throttle cable and am now off to find a vac cap for the charcoal canister inlet on the throttle body

[Jdesign]

YASSSS

[B C]

last night I finally ran a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body for the crankcase ventilation. Just some oil resistant trans fluid line. Im not a fan of how loose and wobbly the valve cover fitting is. Kaiser showed me the machined aftermarket version which i will probably buy later on. 

The throttle body was reinstalled after capping the purge valve port. The last thing I need to do in the engine bay is make a bracket for my oil dipstick tube so that it isnt flailing around.

Once I get the brake booster stud situation resolved (stripped stud #2, now on the interior side of the booster) I can bleed the hydraulics and the car will be drivable. The exhaust still isnt finished but im still debating on whether to drive it to Mr. Rawson to finish it up or to do it on my own.

[Jdesign]

What do you need for exhaust work?

[B C]

mainly to fab a section under the rear subframe, some hangers, and to mate up the mid section with my new y-pipe that comes off the headers.

I am going to spread good vibes to the world and push the car out into the driveway to give myself more room and light to work on the last few things. That way we will suddenly have the biggest blizzard ever, or more of this awesome weather like we are having today. Cant say for sure until I move it. The only trouble is with the slope of the driveway i wont be able to move it back into the garage unless its under its own power so that means I need to get the hydraulic situation resolved soon.

[B C]

Huge progress!!!!

Just kidding.

Plates.

Plate frames.

Blue screw covers because I saw them at the hardware store while getting new screws.

Neat.

[B C]

Another bite-sized update. Spent an hour under the dash and repaired the brake pedal connector that broke, thanks Chris!

I was able to get the new clutch feed hose through the firewall! I routed it through an existing firewall plug just behind the strut tower. Its a much better angle for the whole thing and I think BMW should have routed it this way from the factory. In case you missed it, The e21 booster sits closer to the firewall and pinched the clutch feed hose in its original location.
I am still fighting to get the feed hose back onto the clutch master but im sure I just need to give it 5 more minutes of wrestling.

Once the clutch master is back in place I will work on the booster mounting stud that is spinning.

The goal is to have this booster debacle behind me and the hydraulics bled by Saturday, and be able to focus next week on the exhaust.

The brake booster has been the biggest hassle of this swap (im trying not to think about the M3 cam swap and all the helicoils
involved)

[GunMetalGrey]

El Snapo said:

I was able to get the new clutch feed hose through the firewall! I routed it through an existing firewall plug just behind the strut tower. Its a much better angle for the whole thing and I think BMW should have routed it this way from the factory. In case you missed it, The e21 booster sits closer to the firewall and pinched the clutch feed hose in its original location.
I am still fighting to get the feed hose back onto the clutch master but im sure I just need to give it 5 more minutes of wrestling.

People complain about all kinds of jobs on these cars, but I think I can say that hands down this is one of my least favorite things to do. With a new master cylinder and barb it takes quite a bit of force to seat, and it is in such a bad spot for your hands. 
May the force be with you.

[B C]

Master cylinder feed line is in!
Brake booster stud is taken care of and the booster is snugged down!

So if you have done a z3/e36 rack swap in an airbag equipped e30 you may know about how the steering shaft rubs on the firewall and the firewall opening needs to be clearanced a bit.

I did that many years ago and all was well but i realized a couple months back that the rubber firewall boot isnt fitting and i need to clearance the firewall a bit more. So I did that but the way the boot fits isnt quite as air tight as it is supposed to be and that bothers me. I need to come up with a solution for this boot. Maybe not this year, but sometime.

I disassembled the pedal area quite a bit but once its back together under there I can bleed the brakes and clutch!!!

[m42b32]

Nice!!

How did you fix the booster stud?

For the Z3 rack on my car, I notched the firewall and then made a new plate similar to the stock one that holds the boot, but with the hole offset downwards to accommodate the new angle of the shaft. The boot seals up pretty well with the new plate