E30 M52

[jc43089]

Tell her the 24V engine is so reliable I swapped one into my Toyota van for my wife to haul our children around in.

[Jdesign]

Ohh hes got a good point!  ^

[B C]

Collector plate registration forms sent

[m42b32]

Collector/hobbyist plates are the way to go!

[Jdesign]

Snap said:

Collector plate registration forms sent

Why no hobbyist plates?

[B C]

I like the blue plates on my black car more than i like green plates on my black car

fight me if im wrong.

[Jdesign]

[B C]

Horns were destructed by my former 17x9 stancebro wheel and tire setup

I installed replacements and once again have functional beepers

These original cable holders are good (top)

But after so many years they are crumbling and I would rather have something more conventional like zip ties so I bought some license plate frame hardware and a cable tie mount (bottom)

I installed the new fog lights and brake ducts I got from gunmetalben. i didnt have them when I had the turbo setup because charge pipes and an intercooler said “no”.

I will need to get some upgraded bulbs. The last set of foglights i had retrofitted to 2300K HIDs but the lenses are all gone to hell and im okay with a warm LED or halogen bulb this time

The bumper and valence are also installed.

I had to unbend a lower mounting bracket that i couldnt use for the last couple years because charge pipes and an intercooler said “no”.

The front end of my car is still rock chip city. I dont really mind it as long as it doesnt start rusting. I’d like to think next winter after a successful 3 seasons of driving that I will so something to make an improvement in the aesthetics department

I still have the exhaust and the stupid brake booster situation to tend to then just cleaning up the interior a bit and connecting a few small things and im ready to rock!

[HipMF]

Nice trick you did there with the license plate hardware. Looks good.

[B C]

I replaced some headlight bulb connectors that had broken tabs and finished wiring the fan with the stock temp switch and relays

Some of you may be uncomfortable with my 92 C thermostat and 99 C fan switch. I have some extra weatherpack connectors that i will wire in to the fan switch harness so i can change the fan to kick on at 91 C if I need to

[jc43089]

FYI you can use an 80/88C fan switch.  Plug and play.61 31 8 361 787

[i_love_cars]

let me know if you need any help crossing the finish line this week/weekend.

[B C]

jc43089 said:

FYI you can use an 80/88C fan switch.  Plug and play.61 31 8 361 787

Thanks for the part number. I dont want the fan to be running until its above normal operating temperature so the 91/99C is my choice. I will hang onto the part number for future use in case this doesnt work out

[jc43089]

Keep in mind that switch is on the cool end of the radiator.  I have used one for a long time and the fan does not run unless sitting in hot temps for quite a while.  That is measuring the temp of the coolant right before it goes into the engine to cool it.  Not the temp coming out of the engine.  I wouldn't want much hotter than that returning to the engine 80C/88C (176/190F).  On my gray car I had a Stewart water pump, 88C thermostat and 80/88C fan switch and no mechanical fan, I don't think the fan ever ran on high, and low only occasionally in heavy traffic.  I had an Autometer temp gauge with the sender in the head.  The highest temps I ever saw were right around 210F, Usually it was about 195F.  I would use that setup again, very pleased with it.  Just my 2 cents.

[B C]

your experience is very appreciated. Sounds like I should probably start off with the 91C trigger and visit a Chick-Fil-A drive thru on a Friday lunch hour in July to see how things fare.

[KaiserRolls]

I just turn mine on when I stop in traffic or in a Conga line during autox (which are the worst things ever)

[AsparagusMike]

jc43089 said:

 On my gray car I had a Stewart water pump, 88C thermostat and 80/88C fan switch and no mechanical fan, I don't think the fan ever ran on high, and low only occasionally in heavy traffic.  I had an Autometer temp gauge with the sender in the head.  The highest temps I ever saw were right around 210F, Usually it was about 195F.  I would use that setup again, very pleased with it.  Just my 2 cents.

I'm doing that same setup in mine as well.

[B C]

I have just a little bit more than a duct tape for ground clearance

Some more wiring harness routing, cleanup, and adding weatherpack connectors to a few things. I still need some fog light connectors but everything else is connected and working

I adjusted the throttle cable and am now off to find a vac cap for the charcoal canister inlet on the throttle body

[Jdesign]

YASSSS

[B C]

last night I finally ran a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body for the crankcase ventilation. Just some oil resistant trans fluid line. Im not a fan of how loose and wobbly the valve cover fitting is. Kaiser showed me the machined aftermarket version which i will probably buy later on. 

The throttle body was reinstalled after capping the purge valve port. The last thing I need to do in the engine bay is make a bracket for my oil dipstick tube so that it isnt flailing around.

Once I get the brake booster stud situation resolved (stripped stud #2, now on the interior side of the booster) I can bleed the hydraulics and the car will be drivable. The exhaust still isnt finished but im still debating on whether to drive it to Mr. Rawson to finish it up or to do it on my own.