E30 M52

[B C]

Cored out the inside and added lead

I think I paid $12 for the knob brand new

[patsbimmer1]

So you saved $50ish but gained lead poisoning...

[B C]

Dont you worry, buttercup, I wear a full Hazmat suit when I go fishing or to the gun range and I can drive my car with it too. Folks will think im the Stig!

[KaiserRolls]

It doesn't feel the same in your hand

Phrasing?

[patsbimmer1]

[B C]

I received a few final pieces to finish rebuilding the oil pump. The new outer rotor has a .002" larger diameter than the old one which in itself will increase/restore pump performance substantially.

The overpressure relief springs had an evident difference in length and stiffness . The new one being longer and stiffer and better for preventing any early bleed-off of pressure. The new o-ring was badly needed as well.

The Achillies upgraded pump shaft comes with a bolt instead of a nut, a new sprocket (has flats instead of splines, a bmw sprocket will not work on this shaft) and safety wire.

I also received the little cam tray dowel I needed. Lets see if I can finally get these stupid camshafts installed this weekend

[B C]

Intake cam torqued

Just kidding, stripped another stud.

[B C]

I got a wave of motivation, went out and fixed the stripped threads, re-installed the cam.

Guess what happened?

Yep, stripped another one!

[Earl]

So are you sure you have the proper torque specs? I don't want to seem like I'm second guessing you but I find it very hard to believe that they would put a torque spec that dangerously close to the yield of that thread in aluminum.

[B C]

11 foot pounds/132 inch pounds, certified calibrated torque wrench that goes from 40 to 200 inch pounds so I am right in the middle of the torque wrench capacity and everything to

[B C]

(Reserved for future post about stripped threads)

[B C]

(Reserved for future post about stripped threads)

[B C]

(Reserved for future post about stripped threads)

[straight6pwr]

(Reserved for backhanded comment about you doing torques wrong)

[B C]

No

[GunMetalGrey]

I want to believe you aren't doing something wrong, but I'm having a very hard time doing so. 
I've rebuilt many of these motors, and the only time I had a stripped thread was the small torx screws that go into the timing cover. 

Those cam caps are a glorified hand tight, so I don't quite see how you are having so many issues.

[B C]

I've been a ding-dong many times before but I promise that in this instance I am 100% right and the cylinder head threads are 100% wrong.

Mitch mentioned my torque values may be in yard-pounds [emoji23]

[i_love_cars]

Let me know when you are ready to work on this again. I will stop by and supervise to provide the final word on whether or not you are right or the cylinder head threads are.

[patsbimmer1]

You know there are different tightening torques for M6, M7 and M8 bolts right?  Are you sure you don't have M6 bolts?  Those are only torqued to 7ft/lbs.

[jc43089]

How do you have the camshaft?  Could you take a picture of what you are doing?  I am confused (easily).  When I swapped an intake cam I had it turned so only the #1 cylinder lobes were down and tightened that cap first to compress the valve springs and my helper was holding the cam with a wrench to prevent it from turning while I installed the other caps and torqued it down.  I think I might have needed longer bolts because the studs weren't long enough to get the nuts started. and then once all of the others were installed I rotated it so there was no pressure on that spot and removed the bolts and put the studs back on.  It was a while ago and I was installing an m54b30 cam.