Build Thread?
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Pulled the cams out last night to see how loose the headstuds were. Each nut took kat least another 1/4 turn to get to their torque spec. Going to see if that was the issue!
The cooling system held a lot of pressure overnight, and was still overflowing when I took the expansion tank cap off, so the gasket seals well enough for that. As stated, going to test the re-torqued head. -
All that can go wrong will...
I retorqued the head and got it all back together last night. I hooked up the boost leak tester and still had bubbling. It still sounded odd though, so we spent some time tracking it down. It was oil bubbling, at the bottom of the oil pan. Took the oil feed line off of the turbo and it was shooting air out of the oil inlet. Wtf. Pulled the oil drain line off of the turbo and that was pushing a ton of air out. Double wtf. With the oil drain line disconnected the bubbling stopped.
So the turbo is toast... cool.
This wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have a slightly bent compressor fin from when I got it, so I am not going to spend the money to rebuild a turbo with a bent compressor blade. This would mean getting a new compressor wheel (billet most likely) and sending it out to get it rebuilt and balanced and cleaned etc. This quickly gets to over $500 in costs, but would result in an upgraded turbo.
A new HX35 is $800, a Garrett would be around $1200, but going with a different turbo means getting my exhaust modified, which would take even more time. I need to make some calls today to figure out what I am going to do.
The frustration continues
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new borgs are around 600$ shipped to your door.
But anyways, a rebuild is dirt cheap and you can do it yourself( about 60$) and a new comp wheel should be like 400$ but they are EPIC.
about 500$ later you have a 700+whp turbo without modifying anything id say thats a decent deal. or buy a borg and modify your exhaust.
sk8 or die
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After a few reviews of them that I read online I will most certainly not be contacting them in regards to service work.
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new borgs are around 600$ shipped to your door.
But anyways, a rebuild is dirt cheap and you can do it yourself( about 60$) and a new comp wheel should be like 400$ but they are EPIC.
about 500$ later you have a 700+whp turbo without modifying anything id say thats a decent deal. or buy a borg and modify your exhaust.
Is EPIC some fancy term I am unaware of?
Modifying my exhaust is not optimal. I have no Idea as to how long it would take to get that done, and I am already getting constant setbacks!
I shall look into borg
Edit: what borg warner turbo did you have in mind? The prices I am seeing and your price doesn't line up lol.
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new borgs are around 600$ shipped to your door.
Link pls.
I couldn't find a good compressor map for the HX35, but assuming that it's somewhere between the HX30 and HX40, it should be a decent match after you turn the boost up. The differences between the HX30 and HX40 compressors isn't as big as you would expect. I suspect the differences between them is on the hot side, either the AR or the exducer size, but I haven't looked into it. I wouldn't do anything fancy with the compressor if it's going to increase flow. You're already in a good place there.
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Most of you insist on putting very small turbos on these things. Look up the average turbo on a 1jz, and add a couple mm's haha. Our heads flow better.
Who needs boost before 4k anyways? Haha.
The billet compressor wheel not only flows more per psi but it helps spool! More importantly transient response. If I was him I would probably buy a stock compressor if I wanted cheap, but he mentioned upgrade, so I figured I would say that the billet wheels for these have been raved about with great success.
I personally would never put anything smaller than an hx40 on a 24v motor.
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sk8 or die
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sk8 or die
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So the turbo is fine. I had a discussion with a guy who used to work for dodge and now works for G-Pop Shop and he went into full detail of how and why it is leaking the way it is, and that if he sent me a brand new one it would do the exact same thing.
Simple version, it's the design intent to push air in, but in operating conditions it only sees a tiny bit, which is how it keeps oil from seeping out, it uses a piston ring type seal on the front of it.
This makes me happy. -
Correct, I do have a small leak up near the throttle body that I will hunt down tonight.
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I am assuming that it is. Will find out tonight I guess.
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Good news, everything appears to be kosher.
Fired it up last night and it ran fine, no missing like it did last time, and nothing weird going on.
Couldn't run it long because I had a huge air bubble in the radiator again lol. Got that taken care of though.
More on this story tonight when I can drive for a bit! -
Well once again it was bad news. After letting it cool down overnight I opened the radiator cap slowly and was greeted by a huge gush of coolant and air and gurgling and other great things.
Just ordered the most expensive gasket set I have ever bought. Will start taking the head off tonight, I just can't decide if I am pulling the motor for the occasion or not.In good news I survived another trip to Copper Harbor! Some awesome biking up there!
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Umm. Things
Coolant drain plug on the block is convenient with a turbo manifold.
I have gotten way too fast when it comes to taking apart my motor.
I made a magnet rail to hold lifters into the cam trays when removing them. Extremely convenient.
I have to heat cycle the new headgasket and then retorque
that means putting the motor all back together, and then promptly taking it back apart. I can't tighten the head bolts without taking the cams out.
I want to drive my car? -
In to see how much the heat cycle re-torque turns out.
@DrLeadFoot
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