Build Thread?
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new borgs are around 600$ shipped to your door.
Link pls.
I couldn't find a good compressor map for the HX35, but assuming that it's somewhere between the HX30 and HX40, it should be a decent match after you turn the boost up. The differences between the HX30 and HX40 compressors isn't as big as you would expect. I suspect the differences between them is on the hot side, either the AR or the exducer size, but I haven't looked into it. I wouldn't do anything fancy with the compressor if it's going to increase flow. You're already in a good place there.
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Most of you insist on putting very small turbos on these things. Look up the average turbo on a 1jz, and add a couple mm's haha. Our heads flow better.
Who needs boost before 4k anyways? Haha.
The billet compressor wheel not only flows more per psi but it helps spool! More importantly transient response. If I was him I would probably buy a stock compressor if I wanted cheap, but he mentioned upgrade, so I figured I would say that the billet wheels for these have been raved about with great success.
I personally would never put anything smaller than an hx40 on a 24v motor.
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sk8 or die
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sk8 or die
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So the turbo is fine. I had a discussion with a guy who used to work for dodge and now works for G-Pop Shop and he went into full detail of how and why it is leaking the way it is, and that if he sent me a brand new one it would do the exact same thing.
Simple version, it's the design intent to push air in, but in operating conditions it only sees a tiny bit, which is how it keeps oil from seeping out, it uses a piston ring type seal on the front of it.
This makes me happy. -
Correct, I do have a small leak up near the throttle body that I will hunt down tonight.
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I am assuming that it is. Will find out tonight I guess.
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Good news, everything appears to be kosher.
Fired it up last night and it ran fine, no missing like it did last time, and nothing weird going on.
Couldn't run it long because I had a huge air bubble in the radiator again lol. Got that taken care of though.
More on this story tonight when I can drive for a bit! -
Well once again it was bad news. After letting it cool down overnight I opened the radiator cap slowly and was greeted by a huge gush of coolant and air and gurgling and other great things.
Just ordered the most expensive gasket set I have ever bought. Will start taking the head off tonight, I just can't decide if I am pulling the motor for the occasion or not.In good news I survived another trip to Copper Harbor! Some awesome biking up there!
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Umm. Things
Coolant drain plug on the block is convenient with a turbo manifold.
I have gotten way too fast when it comes to taking apart my motor.
I made a magnet rail to hold lifters into the cam trays when removing them. Extremely convenient.
I have to heat cycle the new headgasket and then retorque
that means putting the motor all back together, and then promptly taking it back apart. I can't tighten the head bolts without taking the cams out.
I want to drive my car? -
In to see how much the heat cycle re-torque turns out.
@DrLeadFoot
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Well....
Looks like cyl. 3 never sealed. The gasket is "oversized" somehow and couldn't be flattened, must have been due to the leak?
Either way, pretty obvious what failed, and I'm glad I spent $200+ on a gasket that never sealed.
Back to being happy! Plenty of work ahead of me though! -
Will be dropping the head off today so it can get some love! Going to look into port matching it while it's off.
Thought about oversized exhaust valves, but those are quite an expense for something that is not needed. -
New game
How long does it take a machine shop to mess up a turbo manifold? -
Took it to the shop that did mikes motor due to the fact that they were the only automotive place locally that had a belt sander that could do anything to my manifold. I now realize I should have just taken it to a machine shop (non auto) and waited the extra time to have it done. I was hoping to have it shipped off to brian yesterday, but what I ended up with wasn't going anywhere.
I brought the manifold in because I could see it was slightly bowed on the mounting flange that goes on the head. It wasn't off by a ton, but if I am getting it ceramic coated I want it straight. I told the guy that I wanted both mating surfaces flat if they were at all warped. I called them later in the day and he said he had been working on it all day and it was finally done. I headed over there and he handed me the manifold saying it was still hot. This is what I saw.
Not only is the turbo mounting flange practically gone, the side that mates to the head now is .05" low instead of the inside being a tiny bit high when I brought it in. The guy said "thats how it went in the machine" , "if it is chinese the metal isn't great" "I've never seen material come off like that" "it was getting really hot" and then blamed the center being low on how hot it got when he was grinding it.
My question, what kind of idiot looks at that manifold and says, "looks good!"
They will be buying me a new manifold
Ninja Edit: the turbo mounting flange used to be damn near 1/2" thick.
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