Build Thread?
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I have an MLS so there is no way I "blew" the gasket. I am assuming it never sealed. This would lead me to believe it was because I never had the block decked. If I need the block decked it will be a full tear down again.
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A lot of people have issues with the gaskets sealing (not too surprising) and most people that have the block decked don't have issues.
I used copper spray, and torqued it all down, so I am slightly unsure why it was leaking.
Cut ring isn't something I am too familiar with, am I able to drop my compression with one still?
Edit: just looked at them again, I wish they specified a thickness on the spacer. It is an interesting idea, and may be a good solution.
Edit Edit: Thickness is the same as my current MLS, the torquing of the head with the copper spacer takes 3+ days, but does make sense. I am thinking that this is a very good route to go. -
Pulled the cams out last night to see how loose the headstuds were. Each nut took kat least another 1/4 turn to get to their torque spec. Going to see if that was the issue!
The cooling system held a lot of pressure overnight, and was still overflowing when I took the expansion tank cap off, so the gasket seals well enough for that. As stated, going to test the re-torqued head. -
All that can go wrong will...
I retorqued the head and got it all back together last night. I hooked up the boost leak tester and still had bubbling. It still sounded odd though, so we spent some time tracking it down. It was oil bubbling, at the bottom of the oil pan. Took the oil feed line off of the turbo and it was shooting air out of the oil inlet. Wtf. Pulled the oil drain line off of the turbo and that was pushing a ton of air out. Double wtf. With the oil drain line disconnected the bubbling stopped.
So the turbo is toast... cool.
This wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have a slightly bent compressor fin from when I got it, so I am not going to spend the money to rebuild a turbo with a bent compressor blade. This would mean getting a new compressor wheel (billet most likely) and sending it out to get it rebuilt and balanced and cleaned etc. This quickly gets to over $500 in costs, but would result in an upgraded turbo.
A new HX35 is $800, a Garrett would be around $1200, but going with a different turbo means getting my exhaust modified, which would take even more time. I need to make some calls today to figure out what I am going to do.
The frustration continues
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new borgs are around 600$ shipped to your door.
But anyways, a rebuild is dirt cheap and you can do it yourself( about 60$) and a new comp wheel should be like 400$ but they are EPIC.
about 500$ later you have a 700+whp turbo without modifying anything id say thats a decent deal. or buy a borg and modify your exhaust.
sk8 or die
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After a few reviews of them that I read online I will most certainly not be contacting them in regards to service work.
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new borgs are around 600$ shipped to your door.
But anyways, a rebuild is dirt cheap and you can do it yourself( about 60$) and a new comp wheel should be like 400$ but they are EPIC.
about 500$ later you have a 700+whp turbo without modifying anything id say thats a decent deal. or buy a borg and modify your exhaust.
Is EPIC some fancy term I am unaware of?
Modifying my exhaust is not optimal. I have no Idea as to how long it would take to get that done, and I am already getting constant setbacks!
I shall look into borg
Edit: what borg warner turbo did you have in mind? The prices I am seeing and your price doesn't line up lol.
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new borgs are around 600$ shipped to your door.
Link pls.
I couldn't find a good compressor map for the HX35, but assuming that it's somewhere between the HX30 and HX40, it should be a decent match after you turn the boost up. The differences between the HX30 and HX40 compressors isn't as big as you would expect. I suspect the differences between them is on the hot side, either the AR or the exducer size, but I haven't looked into it. I wouldn't do anything fancy with the compressor if it's going to increase flow. You're already in a good place there.
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Most of you insist on putting very small turbos on these things. Look up the average turbo on a 1jz, and add a couple mm's haha. Our heads flow better.
Who needs boost before 4k anyways? Haha.
The billet compressor wheel not only flows more per psi but it helps spool! More importantly transient response. If I was him I would probably buy a stock compressor if I wanted cheap, but he mentioned upgrade, so I figured I would say that the billet wheels for these have been raved about with great success.
I personally would never put anything smaller than an hx40 on a 24v motor.
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sk8 or die
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sk8 or die
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So the turbo is fine. I had a discussion with a guy who used to work for dodge and now works for G-Pop Shop and he went into full detail of how and why it is leaking the way it is, and that if he sent me a brand new one it would do the exact same thing.
Simple version, it's the design intent to push air in, but in operating conditions it only sees a tiny bit, which is how it keeps oil from seeping out, it uses a piston ring type seal on the front of it.
This makes me happy. -
Correct, I do have a small leak up near the throttle body that I will hunt down tonight.
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I am assuming that it is. Will find out tonight I guess.
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