91 318 Nostalgia
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Glad you scooped these up!
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Took the door panel off the drivers side to replace a broken door handle yesterday. It appears that at some point when a previous owner removed the drivers door lock they decided they didn't have enough room to access it so instead they just took a grinder to the door. Why?
Hot start issue is gone, which means we are throwing this thing into daily use even though I am still slightly hesitant of that!
New front control arms, control arm bushings, tie rod assemblies, tie rod boots, and strut tops were ordered yesterday to fix up the front bushings and ball joints. They feel okay but the ball joints are quite worn so I may as well knock it all out at once!
Now to tackle the blower motor. Only works on 4 and sounds bad, which usually means that one of the covers is hitting the blades.
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i've changed a latch mechanism in an e30 sedan door. i wanted very badly to cut holes in the door and/or kill myself, so I can see where the PO was coming from.
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Now to tackle the blower motor. Only works on 4 and sounds bad, which usually means that one of the covers is hitting the blades.
If it only works on 4, chances are its the blower motor resistor, as 4 is the only speed that bypasses the resistor.
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If it only works on 4, chances are its the blower motor resistor, as 4 is the only speed that bypasses the resistor.
Agreed, though due to the noise it makes I need to do further investigation.
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I haven't seen the motor clip coming loose before.
The last one I did the plastic had warped enough that it was sitting against the fan blades. That was a nice easy fix!Just transferred the title, and picked up plates for this. Daily duty may start tonight.
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Good deal!
Not sure if it was a track concrete gator issue or the earlier wall tag, but when I opened up the housing on the track car the metal clip holding the blower motor was still in place but the motor itself had been slightly knocked out of the normal housing seat position and was rotated about 1/4" backwards towards the firewall.
One more reason to keep yours a daily driver.
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I look forward to replacing the front suspension and tie rods on this. Driving home last night on the highway with wind, grooved road, snow tires, and worn ball joints was quite a bit of work!
Trying to slide in this in the snow is different. It lacks the power that I prefer, but lift off over-steers quite well. I could certainly do without the beehive power plant!
It's been doing me well though, and is certainly more enjoyable (even in mediocre condition) to drive than the Mazda!
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And I really wonder how a lot of guys in the UK slide compacts with m42's and have zero issues doing it lol. I wonder if the e36 m42 has that much more torque to make the difference...I doubt it but it just amazes me
Crappy tires, lots of handbrake/clutch kicks, and a gas pedal that might as well be welded to the floor haha
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Where did the e46 ever go? lol
I got rid of that this past spring, it was starting to be a lot more headache than it was worth. I picked up a 2010 Mazda 3s Hatch 6 spd on kind of a whim so I could transport bikes and gear for summer.
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Crappy tires, lots of handbrake/clutch kicks, and a gas pedal that might as well be welded to the floor haha
I guess this is part of my problem, I think the car is kind of loud to be flying around neighborhoods past 4k RPM due to the beehive that is clearly angry under the hood.
I will say that the power level isn't quite as disappointing as I remember. -
proper weight distribution and driving the car near the limit. no e-brake or clutch-kicks required.

Get some awesome rubber and go faster
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Got to work on cars this weekend! It has been far too long since that happened!
Got the lowering springs in (thanks Mitch!)
Also put in new tie rods (inner and outer with new boots), sway bar end links as the old ones were destroyed, and new strut tops.The PO had told me it leaked oil because the drain plug was stripped out and he just used silicon to seal it, and it leaked. I grabbed a new lower pan and found that someone decided to use whatever shit they had laying around for the rear bolts that hold the lower pan to the upper. This includes, but was not limited to, giant machine screws, what appeared to be some sort of massive wood screw, screws with flats ground in them to cut threads, and various other sized hardware. Someone also punched through the upper pan with a drill when making these new "threads" so I JB Welded that shut.
Next steps are to do some interior work and get some fog lights, a front lip, and put the brake ducts back in.
I'm also trying to source some ellipsoids. -
On that note...
Last night I checked the fuses for the high beams as they weren't functioning. One was blown so I replaced it. While I was looking at the fuses I saw way too many 20 and 30 amp fuses. I grabbed the Bentley to check the proper values and found that the majority of fuses had been replaced with 20 or 30 amp fuses.
Why are people so dumb?!
I also got the interior lights working again which is a nice touch!
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